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Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


got piston rings gapped and on...Oil rings and top rings were easy but the second ring was just a pain.
 
thanks man...just a quick update...for starters don't get cheap ring compressor from Autozone...learned that the hard way. Bent the bottom oil ring when trying to install...It didn't compress the ring completly...so i'll fix the ring problem and order a summit racing tapered compressor when i order the cam and other essentials
 
i got a question for you guys...Since my compression is now 9.02:1 (not where i want it) I have only one option to get compression closely to where i'd like 9.5:1. I can mill the head if possible 0.020"-0.025" and going to 0.040" MLS gaskets. Is the cost gonna be worth the power increase.
 
lol...and what vehicle would i find these on?

5.0 mustangs and ford trucks with 351's, maybe the 302 also, not sure. E7's are cheap and easy to find.
On a side note, I milled my E7's .030 to up my compression from 9 to1 to 9.5 to 1, I also proted them. I picked up almost 40 horse by doing those things.
 
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Hit up pull a part in Tacoma, you can get a set out there out of a EFI truck for around $50 for the set.
 
i'll think about getting them...i'll talk to my dad and Budd(machinist). so there's no difference between the heads off and EFI motor and a Carbureted one?
 
Not Much Progress, Just Plans

Sorry guys but i'm gonna go with the heads i got now. I would like to add some boost later on down the road, plus i know i can get these heads to flow plenty of air! I've been deciding on parts for my next order from Summit. I've decided on a Comp Cam XE256H. Most of it's valvetrain components, Rocker Studs, Cam and Lifters, Cam bolt (ARP, $3 insurance) Valve springs and Forged 7* locks and Guideplates. Rocker arms will come with the head studs later on. Pushrods will be after rocker arms so i know if stock length will work! (it should)....OH almost forgot, a tapered aluminum ring compressor.
 
Starting on the Heads

I was bored today so i grab my DeWalt drill and a carbide bit i had laying around and went after the heads!

Compared to the gasket, this is what i started with...LOL. Even with gasket not even lined up with the bolt holes you can see how much is on the floor of the port
PIC_0029.jpg


Then after about 45 min or so and a warm drill this is where i'm at.
PIC_0028.jpg


I got 2 ports and this stage right now...I'm gonna try and get rid of that hump in the top left. I try and get the other 2 done before i take these in for guide plate machine and possibly bronze valve guides:icon_thumby:
 
have you looked at the ports on your manifolds/headers? Make sure that all your effort you are putting into gasket matching the exhaust will be worth it. gasket match dosent matter much if you manifolds don't match the gasket, so at least see how you can match the manifolds before you finish the heads.
 
I know the headers have the exact shape as shown. but i'm not exactly matching the ports with the shown gaskets either...just a rough shape for now.

As of right now this is where i'm at
PIC_0033.jpg


You can see the obvious size increase between past and present. Also most of the hump in on the top left of the port is gone...I'm not grinding it all done so made a sharp wave out of it...like you would do around valve stems.
PIC_0034.jpg
 
Dont waste your time with the bottom of the port, There is almost no gain in flow lowering the floor.

Concentrate your effort on removing the thermactor bump, blending the bowls, and shaping the guide boss. When you shape the guide boss, dont trim it at an angle or remove it, it makes it a pain in the ass to get a good cut with the cutter.

Here is a shot of my GT40 heads I ported for reference:
DSCN2475.JPG

DSC000121.JPG

DSC000141.JPG

DSC00034.JPG

DSC00036.JPG


Keep in mind as well, your going to be putting a lot of money into those heads, and the outcome will not be worth it.

When it was all said and done, I had about $8-900 into my heads, ad I didnt even have as much done as your planning to do.
 
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