The Road Ranger. 1997 SEMI

[Rick W]

I'm having a bit of a hard time envisioning how you have the antenna connected and mounted.

Is the block that the antenna mounted to attached to the metal in the door so it can provide a base plain for the antenna? Is the antenna directly touching the aluminium block? Without both the antenna connecting to the block and the block connecting to the door, there is nothing providing a ground plain for the antenna and thus why you aren't able to transmit or receive.

On my ball mount for the 102" whip, the center wire of the coax is connected to the center screw of the mount for transmission and receiving. The braided wire connects to the C ring that clamps the mount to body of the truck and provides the ground plain for the antenna both trough the body and for the radio. I don't think the mount and the antenna are electrically isolated, so there is a complete circuit. If the block and the base of the antenna are electrically isolated in anyway, that may be your problem.

Oh wise one….

So here is a picture of the bottom side of the mirror mount/CB antenna mount. (ignore the fat head in the bottom of the picture)

The isolated antenna is in the middle, and if you look close at the left screw in the pic, you can see the braided shield wire folded through two holes and bound in place by that screw. The plastic mirror holder is entirely plastic, held in place by three imbedded (in the plastic) bolts that bolt against the outside sheet metal door skin. Some options:

(1) The easiest thing to do would be to run run a wire from that pinched shield weave wire to one of the three bolts that pinches that assembly to the door skin, making sure I clean it to get a good ground.

(2) To create an even better ground plane, I was thinking of taking a copper wire down one side of that mirror assembly, and a second one down the other side of the mirror assembly and drilling them into the door skin hidden at the far edges of that assembly. Triangle shape.

(3) the other option is to fabricate a thin aluminum plate, the size and shape of the bottom of that assembly, put a screw into the aluminum piece, and have the other side fold up behind that assembly and attach it to the door with a screw at each end. I’d probably put in four or six tiny screws to hold that aluminum plate flush to the bottom of the assembly. Think of a triangle with a fold that goes behind that mirror bracket that is screwed into the door.

And regardless of which option, I am not sure how the door is grounded to the main body of the truck, but I was thinking I’ll run a ground wire at the top of the door and maybe a second ground wire at the bottom of the door. Overkill?

Here’s my question: do you think option 3 is really necessary compared to 1 or 2? Or Will simply running one or two wires from that Aluminum mount to the door skin be adequate enough. Such a fabricated aluminum plate would not be very hard to fabricate from my stock in the shed of miracles….

And thanks again for your help on this.

 

[sgtsandman]

Oh wise one….

So here is a picture of the bottom side of the mirror mount/CB antenna mount. (ignore the fat head in the bottom of the picture)

View attachment 141863

The isolated antenna is in the middle, and if you look close at the left screw in the pic, you can see the braided shield wire folded through two holes and bound in place by that screw. The plastic mirror holder is entirely plastic, held in place by three imbedded (in the plastic) bolts that bolt against the outside sheet metal door skin. Some options:

(1) The easiest thing to do would be to run run a wire from that pinched shield weave wire to one of the three bolts that pinches that assembly to the door skin, making sure I clean it to get a good ground.

(2) To create an even better ground plane, I was thinking of taking a copper wire down one side of that mirror assembly, and a second one down the other side of the mirror assembly and drilling them into the door skin hidden at the far edges of that assembly. Triangle shape.

(3) the other option is to fabricate a thin aluminum plate, the size and shape of the bottom of that assembly, put a screw into the aluminum piece, and have the other side fold up behind that assembly and attach it to the door with a screw at each end. I’d probably put in four or six tiny screws to hold that aluminum plate flush to the bottom of the assembly. Think of a triangle with a fold that goes behind that mirror bracket that is screwed into the door.

And regardless of which option, I am not sure how the door is grounded to the main body of the truck, but I was thinking I’ll run a ground wire at the top of the door and maybe a second ground wire at the bottom of the door. Overkill?

Here’s my question: do you think option 3 is really necessary compared to 1 or 2? Or Will simply running one or two wires from that Aluminum mount to the door skin be adequate enough. Such a fabricated aluminum plate would not be very hard to fabricate from my stock in the shed of miracles….

And thanks again for your help on this.

The door would be grounded to the body via the hinges. I'm not sure how good the ground will be, but that would be pretty much it. You might want to consider getting some of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7WSMY?tag=959media-20

I have a bunch of those bonding and grounding a bunch of things though out the truck. More to eliminate EMF generation by the truck than needing a good ground plain. The 2011 is a horrible EMF generator.

 

[Rick W]

The door would be grounded to the body via the hinges. I'm not sure how good the ground will be, but that would be pretty much it. You might want to consider getting some of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7WSMY?tag=959media-20

I have a bunch of those bonding and grounding a bunch of things though out the truck. More to eliminate EMF generation by the truck than needing a good ground plain. The 2011 is a horrible EMF generator.

Man, @sgtsandman, if you were here, I’d give you a big kiss on the lips! (Well, maybe that would be over the top, so maybe some more appropriate expression of my thanks.)

So, I’ve been fighting the CB radio setups in this truck since I first put them in about three or four years ago. Let me interject my CB set ups over the years have always been first class. Not so much with this truck. It’s been probably a half dozen iterations and several different radios. I went from almost no ability to broadcast and receive, to none at all, and then back again. Grounding out the point where the antennas are mounted (I honestly don’t know how I missed that one myself) was obviously the trick. THANK YOU AGAIN!

I just cut some diamond plate to extend my Aluminum insert to cover the entire bottom of the old mirror mount, and then I grounded that to the door with a piece of 10 gauge copper. View from the bottom after, compared to the view from the bottom earlier above.

The two screws in the center go through both pieces of aluminum. The two on the corners just screw into the plastic. If you look at the one in the top left of the picture, again, I drilled two holes, and then looped the 10 gauge wire from one to the other from the top, and then I put the screw through the outside hole that holds it all together. I actually learned that grounding trick from a British guy when I worked for Colgate Palmolive in Ndola in Zambia, Africa, in ‘76 and ‘77. I don’t know if that would make it British engineering or African engineering, but I’ve used it where I’ve had problem grounds for 50 years, and it works every time.

When I left out this morning, I calibrated the antenna/SWR on the overhead Cobra 29 LTD classic. The holy grail TRS-465 single side band mounted by the stick shift does it internally electronically apparently. Starting with the Cobra, when I was able to build up the confidence and overcome the fear of another failure, I broadcast “I’ve got a new radio in my truck & can I get a Radio check?” One guy came back instantly with “It’s working, driver!” and then another sent “Sounds good, what kind of radio is that?” Chatted just long enough to find out he was about a mile and a half in front of me on the interstate, chatting like he was in the passenger seat. YESSSS!

After I stopped for some cheap gas ($4.41), I turned off the Cobra & turned on the Radio Shack SSB. Virtually the same broadcast brought back three responses immediately, basically the same as the Cobra. YESSSS! Soowheeett!!!

Man, it was the perfect shot in the arm after the entitled woke bitch hit my door on Saturday. Now I can move on to other things I’ve wanted to do, actually moving forward instead of just spinning my wheels.

 

[Rick W]

I’ve always been interested since I started putting it together…

Well, yesterday was the day. When I was coming back from the body shop to get the estimate on the damage, I was driving right past the metal scrapyard just a little bit before they closed. I looped in the exit the wrong way, & hooked around, and pulled onto the exit scale.

The gal came out and asked for my ticket, and I smiled at her and I said “I’m just cheaten’ and weighin’ my truck!” She laughed.

Well, 4400 on the nose with a full tank, some tools in the toolbox, Lincoln’s 17 pounds, and my 240# butt (Hey, 287 four months ago!)

Next time I’ll swing through with the trailer. That’ll be a little harder to do since I don’t usually have the trailer hooked up during the week.

EDIT, BTW:

1997 Ford Ranger SuperCab with the 4.0L V6 engine and five-speed manual transmission: Two-Wheel Drive: Approx 3,410 – 3,460 lbs.”

 

[Jim Oaks]

Looks like the Road Ranger has competition. Where's your sleeper Rick?

 

[Rick W]

Looks like the Road Ranger has competition. Where's your sleeper Rick?

View attachment 141999​

It’s close by, I call it the “holiday Inn express.“

Amateur patch work! Wheels don’t match, etc. I think it’s painted with house paint, he clearly doesn’t understand the rust oleum touch

 

[Rick W]

Sooooo, I’ve been trying to make the front of the truck look more “semi.” I definitely wanted more Chrome upfront, but I didn’t want to do a whole bunch of fiberglass work on the grill or the hood. The replacement grills come with a chrome cap and a silver bottom or a black bottom, and there’s an aftermarket one that’s all chrome. I saw one, and it looked like a cheap piece of…

So it just hasn’t been a priority. I mentioned in another thread that I went and scavenged the pull-a-part Sunday just for a mental health day. While I was there, I picked up a chrome top/black grill to just play with and see what’s possible. My current grill had a couple cracks in it, so I figured I’d swap in the black one and then start playing with my old one.

Well, when I was walking around, I found this thing. I think it was a 2004 Explorer, maybe an expedition.

With the OEM grill, the checkout guy only charged me five dollars and a one dollar environmental fee and called it an “insert.“ Well, a picture or two is worth 1000 words.

Before, when I got it:

And after I cleaned it up, better bumper, rustoleum, etc. and I added the valance and the halogen driving/fog lights:

I started by just laying that explorer grill over the existing grill, and the rest is history. I didn’t have to touch my version of my raptor lights, but I took my strobes off the old grill, and mounted them below the Headlights. I had the new headlights for a while, so that was obviously a good place to start.

I almost couldn’t believe that that explorer grill pretty much just laid right in. It covers the top corners of the headlights a bit, but it’s further forward, not enough to matter, and then I cut the ends off my old grill and worked the edges until it’s sort of all fit together. I had to drill three or four more mounting holes and slide on some of those clip nuts, but it was actually very easy.

The Explorer Grill actually sticks out about an inch or inch and a half further forward than the old grill. I’m kind of loving that. Really sharp looking chrome, too. But the really amazing thing was when I cranked it up, which is what makes my raptor lights come on, and this happened:

The raptor lights are an inch or an inch and a half behind the back of the grill. The grill is Chrome all over, so the lights reflect off the underside of each horizontal piece, reflecting down onto the one below it, and that reflects out, etc., giving it this waterfall effect. Gives me a woodie!!!

I’d like to say that I did all the measurements and planned all of that, but I just lucked out.

If you look close, the outside bottom corners of the grill don’t match the curve in the support exactly, but you barely notice it. I started to play with some cardboard to maybe make a couple pieces that would fit in that gap. My thinking is to make them out of some kind of plastic that’s translucent, and put a couple of LEDs in there, either as accent/running lights, or maybe to flash with the turn signals. I cut a cardboard starting piece, but that’s a project for another day.

I also put the V6 emblems from a different year explorer on the front corners.

I did a bunch of other routine maintenance things just getting ready for Ford Nationals. More to follow….

EDIT/Afterthought: and the Explorer emblem is twice as big as the Ford emblem on the original grill, which I also love

 

[Rick W]

Just returned from Carlisle Ford Nationals and finally remembered to go weigh the rig before I unhooked the trailer.

So I backed out of my driveway midmorning (an adventure in itself) and ran over to the “Got Scrap” scrapyard. I pulled in behind OJ’s 644 without weighing in (got yelled at), and slid on the scale.

5860 overall, and the Road Ranger is 4400, so the drop trailer is 1,460 pounds, but I probably had 100 pounds of travel gear still in the truck. So I’ve been saying 1350, and I’ll stick with that.

The funny thing was, after they yelled at me pulling in, I think half the staff came over to take a picture with it!

Edit/afterthought: I have to remember that when I slide underneath it and I bang on it

 

[Rick W]

As big as the step trailer is, and with the extended cab in the truck, I still don’t have enough room to be organized when I travel and bring tools and spare parts for whatever may blow up. When I built the trailer, I had a COVID freebie 33 x 13 x about 15 deep Aluminum Box. I mounted it so the lid folds down underneath the passenger side of the trailer.

By the time I put four wheel chocks in there and a little container of 8 or 10 ratchet straps, a chain used to straighten out the trailer so I can couple up with it, and the two 10” pneumatic casters that I use at the bottom of the front legs, there isn’t enough room for an extra cup of coffee.

The toolbox behind the cab stays full too.

I’ve been searching and hoping to pick up a second Aluminum diamond plate box that size, but they’re rare and they’re pricey. I picked up this new powder coated steel box about 10 years ago for about $20 if I remember right. It’s a real El cheapo, only had a hasp, and it’s the cheap diamond plate pattern. It’s 30 x 13 by about 15 deep, so just about 3 inches shorter than the one on the truck now. The point is it’s the right size to tuck under the driver side.

I must have a half a dozen or 10 of the pull latches from the truck boxes from the cheap/free boxes I’ve picked over the years for the diamond plate, and corner shapes. So I pulled one of them out, made a cardboard template, and then I cut off the hasp and cut a hole/holes for the pull latch where the hasp eye was located.

I wire brushed the pull latch, & had to tinker with the mechanism in the back a little bit so everything would slide right, and I had to make a new flipper for the back of the lock set. I put 3/8 inch weatherstrip foam around the perimeter, and then riveted it into the box. I made the matching catch rod out of about 1 inch of aluminum channel, half the width, so it’s very stout and I just used a 1/4 20 bolt as the rod the latch catches on.

I plan on mounting it where the door folds out like the original. I have to add some chains to keep the door from flopping all the way down, and put some weather strip on both of the boxes around the lids.

I’m planning on also making some kind of holders for the wheel shocks that will hold them between the two axles up high by the bed. That will free up some good room.

I also have an approx 48 x 20 x 22 sit-
in-the-bed Aluminum Diamond plate Box. It’s rectangular/cubic, with no angled cut outs for the wheel wells or to slide something underneath it. I put it over the front trailer axle on the back of the trailer, but it will be a feature you can take on and off, and/or locate anywhere on the lower or upper trailer. On a long trip like Carlisle, I’ll put all my extra parts and probably-won’t-use-them tools in there. I’m thinking of attaching it with four chains like a treasure chest, just for fun. The box is 4 or 5 inches higher than the upper deck of the trailer. I’d like to cut it down to the same height as the step, but it’s a lot of work just for appearance. A cut down maintains visibility behind the truck when I’m driving, and I think it would just look better, and it would still hold everything I need to drag along. I’m still thinking it out.

Pictures to follow,

 

[Rick W]

I have a Unistrut frame under the deck to support the original toolbox and hold ramps that I use once in a blue moon. I had to attach this toolbox a little differently because it’s a few inches shorter, using another piece of Unistrut to go lengthwise along the frame. I also added the chains to hold the door when it folds down.

It’s a hair out of alignment because a low horizontal piece of the ramps’ Unistrut runs right across the back and it’s a little crooked. It’s an angle, flange out, and it will only take pulling two bolts to flip it flange in, and then I can square the box. Just got a little too hot today to finish up, and I’m taking the cute little brunette to the opera tonight.

Here’s the other box I was talking about

I don’t like that it stands so high, even if it’s just a temporary. I have another box I want to try, a nice black poly box. I’m not going to buy anything, so once I see how that looks, and maybe what else is in my toolbox pile, I’ll do something.

This Aluminum box is cut in in the back and in the front. If I cut it right across the top of that, the lid would actually re-mount and cover all four sides, taking about 6 inches out of the height of the box. But I’m not sure if I want to go to all that work (think about moving the two latches) for the occasional use, and it is a pretty nice box as is. Having said that, I must have six or eight extras, but this is one of two or three that are too good to cut up for the Aluminum.

Next step is to drill the ramps where they lay on the back of the trailer, and drill holes in the trailer so I can pin them at different widths so they don’t slide out from under me when I’m doing something crazy. Maybe this weekend