Project: Moose Knuckle; Part III

[LittleBigFoot]

I got it. I'm gonna run a wind powered electric motor with solar assist.

I'll run a fan off my drive shaft to create wind that gets picked up by another windmill thing. I think it'll work.

 

[Chance]

Steam Engine.








DO IT.

You could run it off either wood or coal... you'd never run out of fuel if you got an axe and you're out in the woods

 

[LittleBigFoot]

While I do like the idea of the steam engine, I just picked up a 351w and C6 for 125 bucks.

The guy I got it from was really cool and helped us out a ton, (he had a hoist, and hydraulic lift and air tools) so I gave him 180. Still, not bad for a 351.

Wiring up the EFI looks like it's gonna be a bitch. Of course. Carb would be easy. But EFI would be better. But carb would be easy. But efi would be better. Carb would be really easy, but EFI would be a bit better.

I've got a guy willing to trade me a T18 with a Dana 20 (came from a wagoneer with a 360) for my 44 and 9".

The c6 has something like a 2.5 first gear, the T18 has a 6.2 to one. That would also allow me to run a chevy 60 cause the D20 is passenger drop. It's just a matter of finding a ford bellhousing and figuring out the other little things. That would be fun.

OR I could sell my 4x4 C6 and pick up a 2wd C6 and run a divorced T case. D20s were run in some CJs, 2.5:1 ISH reduction, short as hell, and gear driven IIRC.

Local JY only wants 80 bucks a case. That might be the way I go.

 

[JohnnyU]

If you're dead-set on not rewiring the EFI, I agree that propane would be a good alternative.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Pane would be cool. And damn, I used to get a good deal on propane from ACE cause I used to sell drugs to a few of the guys that worked there.

I'm gonna look into running propane

 

[86ford]

You gals can hash out the carb/efi/propane debate till the cows come home but anyone who does the research knows propane or EFI wins hands down. If you cant do the electrical and dont know anyone who can do it, run propane.

86

 

[86ford]

I'd stick with a 4.0. It makes plenty of power and doesn't require all the mods necessary for the sbf swap. You can use your ranger trans and t-case to keep costs (and weight) down as well. You said yourself there's no mud in CO, other than that, what would require more power than what the 4.0 offers?

Keep the same trans? You smoking crack? He has a 3.0..... He has to swap ECM, trans, and most of the wiring...

86

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Pane kits look pretty expensive. around a grand. but i'd be willing to pay a grand to not have to deal with wiring.

I'm a firm believer of the KISS method. Keep it simple stupid.

Oh well, I have time to decide.

 

[Bray D]

Keep the same trans? You smoking crack? He has a 3.0..... He has to swap ECM, trans, and most of the wiring...

86

Ya that was kinda dumb. I guess I was saying he'd be able to use a ranger based drivetrain with the 4.0 as the powerplant. Run the 4.0 m5od and an rbv doubler. All the gear reduction you want at a fraction of the cost and weight. Hell I bet my doubler weighs less than a single 205.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Got the 351w undressed today. Mitch and I pulled her apart in the cold.

Just down to crank, cam, and pistons. Got bored and tired so we called it for the night.

I'm still liking the idea of pane. I'm still looking into the emissions shit as far as propane goes. I'm still trying to keep this street legal ish. Enough I can drive it with out getting pulled over every twenty six feet.

BrayD, If I were to go through the hassle of a motor swap, i'd like a few more then 6. I'm a fan of motors with 7-9 cylinders. Yes, I want a 28 valve motor one day. Some how.

BSing aside, it's gettin there. My x member should be here soon. I hope.

 

[Bray D]

BrayD, If I were to go through the hassle of a motor swap, i'd like a few more then 6. I'm a fan of motors with 7-9 cylinders. Yes, I want a 28 valve motor one day. Some how.

The number of cylinders is irrelevant. An engine is used produce power. As long as it produces dependable power that is sufficient for your application, I'd aim for the setup with the least weight.

BUT if a V8 gets your rocks off then by all means go for it, which you already have . All the added weight/size/packaging complications opens up a whole 'nother can of worms IMO. Just sayin.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Well, it'll get me to the rocks, over the rocks, to the next field of rocks, and then it'll get my rocks off.

I've driven a stock ranger with a 4.0. It was nothign to brag about. I've driven a ranger with a 3.0. It was somethign to complain about.

After gettin used to the 390 in my F250, it's 8 or nothin!

Gear reduction only does so much. A doubler would be great, a doubler is great, but a doubler doesn't help get me to the trails.

Even with 6.72s (Randy's makes a gear set for the 9" somewhere in that ball park) that 3.0 would still be a dog.

I wanted torque right off the line, not at 5800rpm (making fun of the 3.0)

I'm only 125 bucks and some gas into the 351. A rebuild kit for the 3.0 is about 250. As far as i can tell, I WIN! hahahah

 

[Chance]

It's been like, three pages since the last picture. Da fawk man?


On a serious note... Which one of your threads is your steering (steering gear shall I say) set-up done in? Trying to get as many options and ideas as possible right now...

 

[LittleBigFoot]

I just did a quick steering job cause I had been planning on running different axles, and I ran out of money and needed to get her streetable to get to work.

Right now it's set up like the old chebbies, with a drag link running from the pitman arm to the driverside knuckle (high steer arm on a chebbie knuckle), and a knuckle to knuckle tie rod.

It handles fine for the road, very very limited to no bump steer, and pretty tight.

Off the road though, in extreme off camber situations, it looses drag to one side. So of course i've stayed away from shelf roads with cliffs to one side.

I've had a damn hard time finding a flat top pass. knuckle and a machine shop to drill and tap it. I got sick of throwing money into an axle i'm going to be getting rid of.

It works but I wouldn't suggest it. Kind of like a Z link made of 1.5" cold rolled bar drilled and tapped for TREs. Ya ain't gonna bend that shit but it's just not propper.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

AND FINE!

Here's the 351w the night mitch and I pulled it. Like I said, since then it's been undressed but the garage is so far away and so cold right now so imagine a naked block.
Isn't my Ftwofity sexy?