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Project Life Support.


Wow that reminds me, hunting season is coming soon. Time to put tree stands up. Guess I'll do that next week when I have time. Thanks for reminding me.

The last JB product I used was the water weld stuff. Man does it work great at fixing gas tanks and other stuff. Ran out of it in a week!!

If you cant Duct it, JB Weld it!
 
I gots me an alarm siren. I was trouble shooting my broken horn, discovered that what I THOUGHT was my horn really isn't, so I posted a thread here and some members said it might be a siren. I touched a couple wires together and jumped in surprise as a extremely loud siren attacked my ears. Now I'm taking an old switch and wiring it up. Should be good for some laughs.

The alarm.
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The switch. I found it in an F-250 at a junk yard about a year ago. Eventually I'll upgrade to a lower profile one but this will work for now.
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Someday, I'll hook it up to a remote switch so I can keep people the hell away from my truck!
 
I have an air horn in my garage that is loud!! Might put it on my truck one day.

As for a remote switch, go to the mall and when people walk by your truck make it go off and scare them.
 
I was more of less gonna use it to scare the piss out of my girlfriends 5 year old sister next time she tries to climb onto the roof of my truck.
 
Two years ago I was given a 1974 ford maverick that my step brother climbed on the roof (mind you he is over 230 pounds) and caved it in turning it into a swimming pool. We got inside and popped the roof back but the damage was done. Dented and alot of work to fix (but lucky I didnt have my licence yet), I sold the car to my brother in law for 200 dollars and next year it will be in a demolition derby, mini class. Cant wait to see it get destroyed. This car wasn't a chick magnet mind you, it was the ugliest thing in the world.
 
I've been working the past couple days on installing a car alarm that I "found" in my truck. Someone decided to cut the wires to it for an unknown reason, maybe they lost their remotes?

More info here : http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59010

Everything works. Right now I have it rigged up temporarily to a switch.

So far, all I know is that it is a Marksman system by Magnadine. It has the speaker, large box with spikes and the little box.

http://www.magnadyne.com/index.cfm?MasterAction=Item&InvMasID=25751&Web_CatID=135

So far, the closest I can get to it on their site is the X4 system. But I don't think that is it. I will remove the two boxes and do some digging as to how to install them and what they really are.

Any help on the subject is appreciated.
 
I've been working the past couple days on installing a car alarm that I "found" in my truck. Someone decided to cut the wires to it for an unknown reason, maybe they lost their remotes?

More info here : http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59010

Everything works. Right now I have it rigged up temporarily to a switch.

So far, all I know is that it is a Marksman system by Magnadine. It has the speaker, large box with spikes and the little box.

http://www.magnadyne.com/index.cfm?MasterAction=Item&InvMasID=25751&Web_CatID=135

So far, the closest I can get to it on their site is the X4 system. But I don't think that is it. I will remove the two boxes and do some digging as to how to install them and what they really are.

Any help on the subject is appreciated.
good luck with that. the explorer we bought has 2 remote starts/alarms. i've been told its much easier to have a new system installed then to try and repair an old one.
 
Easier? Probably. Cheaper? No. :icon_thumby:

Anyway, here's my switch location. Eventually this will be rocking another one on each side, one of which I'm buying today.

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The other switch will be on the right of this one, and will be used to turn my Cold Cathodes on and off in the truck. I will post photos of them once they arrive, and install pics/info/etc as I get them installed.

I'm also going to pick up a pair of in line fuses, as well as a box of splitters and connectors to run from the battery. This is mostly because I have the alarm redneck rigged at the moment. See below.

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Not a clue what that fuse goes to. All I know is that it has constant power, and is a relatively low (15 Amps) fuse. A better decision would be to run the wires from my battery, using the available connector pictured below.

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That wouldn't allow for fused power however, so I chose to go with the redneck connection for now. If you do do one like that, make sure you put the wire into the end that DOESN'T have power without the fuse in place. Otherwise, what you did was pointless.

Here's some more pictures of the alarm components:

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Both boxes have some sort of a wiring diagram on one side of them. I am going to contact the company to see if I can receive a paper diagram (providing that it's not available on the web, which it should be) from them, and how much it would cost me for a remote. I believe remotes are about 50, so I will also contact some local retailers to see what they can do for me.
 
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Got an email back from the troopers, they said that it is illegal to have it wired to a toggle but I can wire it to a remote.

I've also picked up some butt connectors and a switch for installing my cathodes, still waiting on them to get here though. I won't be using the switch, since I already have one installed. I'll just wire the cathodes to that switch and call it done. I will save this one for when I get to the REAL work on my truck, once I get a job. It's going to be built up to be a mud/light trail truck. 6" (or 4", haven't decided) suspension lift, 33's, fiberglass flared fenders, (haven't decided on the width.) and some custom bumpers. I plan on blending street with offroad with the rear one. It will be like a steel square tube roll pan with a receiver mount in the center. I haven't decided if I want to encase it in diamond plate or if I want to leave it open. I'm not a fan of shiny things so I'd have to paint the plate. But that's all for later, once I get a job and have some money to spend. Also, I'll be wanting a second car first. Hopefully I'll have one by winter. I don't like the idea of driving to college in blizzards with my little 2wd pickup. I'd feel much safer in a little Subaru. I'll end up with an outback if I do buy one. There's alot of them cheap in my area.

Anyway, here's how I wired some fuses I found so I can use them like "in line" fuses for both the cathodes, and the alarm once I get that remote switch wired up.

I wired them so that I have a short amount of space between the fuse and the battery, but enough that if I wanted to change them out I could just clip and strip instead of having to undo all of the tape.

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Then, I put them together because Advance didn't have any wire splitters.. oh well.

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They will be stuffed into the yellow crimp connector pictured above.

Eventually, the yellow fuse will be going to my cathodes that should arrive sometime next week, and the black fuse will be going to the car alarm. That reminds me.. I should put a stripe of black on the wire to the car alarm so I know which each one is.
 
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Did some more electrical work for the interior lighting and upgrading the alarm from Redneck rigged, to semi-redneck rigged.

Wired both up to GBC fuses, I didn't have any in-line fuse holders for them so I pulled the wires through and used tape. It seems to work just fine, as both have juice. Photo only shows the alarm done, but I have both done and wired to switches right now.

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Then, I started to make the hole for my cathode's switch. I used a 7/16ths bit and had to file it out just a little bit to make it fit. If you do drill a hole in an interior panel with a large bit, make sure you make the hole with a small one first. Otherwise it slides all over. AND GO SLOW. Drill bits have a tendency to "grab" onto plastic and either pull the panel to you, or pull you to the panel.

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Wired my switch up. Thankfully this one still had screws, making the connections easier. The old switch I used for the alarm was missing a screw, so I had to go for the whole loop and twist strategy. I used tape on both anyway.

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Then I got it put in and tightened, these are a pain to get tight and keep strait. I still don't think they are 100% strait but they are close enough.

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Here's how they look from the outside. Not that noticeable, and it looks like a stock switch location. I'm happy with my work. Eventually, they will have a 3rd switch on the side. That will go to my fog lights, if I ever get a fog light valance or pre-runner style bumper like I want.

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Nice. One thing I have to say is I'm not a fan of butt conectors.I solider things together but thats just me.

I just need to figure out how to take your dash out of your truck, and stick it in mine. I want gen 2 dash they are nicer.

I plan on putting fog light on my truck. I go hunting and sometimes you want the extra light. Where I drive, it is BLACK outside. Normal head lights dont cut it.
 
Mines a gen 3 dash. :D Kinda.

93/94 used the older dash style. To be honest I like it better than the newer dashes.

I would have soldered it, but I don't have any solder, and I'm confident with these. I HATE the crimp kind, I will only use the shrink and crimp kinds. With the exception of the yellow one, which was already there.
 
your dash is alot like the one in my 89 dash
 
89 would be Gen2, so it's prettymuch the same.

I love my 1993. If I ever get another 3rd gen, it will be 1993 or 1994. Except with A/C this time. :D
 
I have to get an 89-94 if I want to do the swap......which I want to do in the future. But the problem is any of them I find are cracked or have holes in them from CB mounts.
 

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