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Project Guinea Pig


Oh damn!


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I would still try to get help carrying one around , I did mine by my self and got a hernia from it( not fun).

No, carrying 260 lbs is a bad idea, as you found out. I have the bottoms of old grocery carts to pack heavy weights around. But to wrestle one around under the truck is an altogether different kind of pain. So far my favorite way to lift one up to the suspension is to use ratchet straps.
Previously I've always played with F & R D44s. Much easier. :icon_thumby:
 
Rowdy, are you still thinking about the 558 lb 14 bolt under your rig? I figure with 38's and beadlocks your probably getting close to a half ton there. Not too much lighter than Rocks, really. Weight starts becoming a factor on the rest of the truck with that. Sure they aren't likely to break but your 302 works harder to shove it.

I've never contemplated the 609's for mine. Even a jy built one is gonna carry a big expense. The speed I seem to gather money I'd never get the truck done if I started that.

I actually think built 1/2 ton axles would survive but I'd hate to have to hike away from my ride if I was wrong. I believe well chosen parts in D60's will survive anything I can throw at them. (And yes, I've heard of guys with 2.9's that blow them up.) :icon_confused:
 
No I'm gonna go with the rear 609 lol. I've got a D60 for the front just rusting away so I finger I better make it happen.


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No I'm gonna go with the rear 609 lol. I've got a D60 for the front just rusting away so I finger I better make it happen.
Seems like a horrific amount of work to make a 9" into a "junkyard" full floater axle. After that you'd quickly find the limits of the factory stamped housing, and low pinion center chunk not to mention any machine work and backyard welding. The 9" and 60 pieces don't exactly fit together easily. You'll need to lathe the 60 housing ends to fit, then jig the parts perfectly together using an axle or axle slug with a housing jig to get it all square and true or you'd forever be blowing bearings or eating axle shafts. Speaking of those, they'd have to be made custom regardless.
For me, the 609 (or 9-14) are great ideas that die in the details and expenses. I'm not trying to squash your plans but research the hell out of it first. You might find a regular 1 ton axle fits the budget better. Then again you might find a 609 on Ebay that totally suits you. Ya never know.
 
With Dynatrac and Currie being a 4ish hour drive each way (for me, not all people can save on shipping) the possibility of a custom axle build has some merit. I might go that way if I do a 60 front. By the time I buy a 60 housing, gears locker, new bearings brakes and steering I am getting close to just buying a complete axle. I haven't priced it lately but last time I looked there wasn't much of a cost difference when all was added up.
 
With Dynatrac and Currie being a 4ish hour drive each way (for me, not all people can save on shipping) the possibility of a custom axle build has some merit. I might go that way if I do a 60 front. By the time I buy a 60 housing, gears locker, new bearings brakes and steering I am getting close to just buying a complete axle. I haven't priced it lately but last time I looked there wasn't much of a cost difference when all was added up.
I just checked Dynatrac and Currie's websites and pricing wasn't on either menu. Interestingly, Currie rear 60's are semi-float. Both companies seem geared towards providing primarily Jeep replacement axles.
I'm not down on custom axles, if I could afford one I'd do it but my budget doesn't work that way. Essentially, about 6 months a year I do fairly well, the other 6, well... :annoyed:
Hopefully in a few months I'll be the only one on the internet dumb enough to put a Dodge axle under the front of a Ranger. It has to get a van axle under the back first though. (I just reread those sentences and no, I'm not high. lol)
Man, I wish I had your fab skills, Matt.
 
Ruff stuff has a 9" jig, and a set of weld on flanges that accepts D60 front spindles. I'll take the 9" housing to the local blacksmith and have him true up the ends of the tubes. Then I'll mount it all together, slide a piece of DOM through the spindles and weld the flanges on.
Chromolly shafts can be bought for $300-500.
Then I'll put the ruff stuff armor on the 9". I figure I can have it done for under $1000 not counting a locker. I might have a lead on a 9" with a 35 spline Detroit.
If he didn't sell it...


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There are tons of companies that build shafts. I'll just order some for a D60 then have them custom cut and splined for a 9".


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3rd breakdown of the Exploder dd yesterday coming home from work. And having 3 1/2 hours to think about it waiting for a tow truck I decided to yank the 5.0 / 4R70W from it and drop them into the Ranger.
But not immediately. Still gotta go to work Monday. So likely have to fix the thing again. But this is where its going.
Starting after dads estate completes I'm looking for a used Ford SD. Easily the best vehicle I ever owned before.

Already have a BW 4406 manual t case for the Ranger swap.

All breakdowns of the Sploder have been electrical / fuel related and shouldn't be a problem in the Ranger.

So the engine, trans, t case and computer for the Ranger are chosen. I'm going to try to work the dash and overhead console in too.
 
Sounds like a good plan bud!


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Picked up a rear Dana 60 HD tonight. I'll post pix tomorrow.
I'll also figure out where the BOM is and identify it.

(Yes, I bought it. $150. Its in the Sploder. lol)
 
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