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Problems with a 2.3 Turbo Ranger


BTW, if you reach a certain boost leven and find the engine "falling flat" even when the pressure is up there could be another explanation.....

Yes, the computer controlled the boost via the boost control solenoid
and the signal that determined when to "pull" the boost out from under
your happy foot is the signal from the knock sensor...

If you bypassed the boost solenoid with your own boost control the
computer still has the ability to pull ignition timing if it senses knock.

And BTW, knocking is NOT the only thing that will cause the computer
to pull timing, any noise that resembles knock can di it as well.

and if you are still running a non-roller cam the followers wear in a predictable way.
Typically they get a groove of "base circle" wear across the contact surface
and the noise is generated as the lobe tip sweeps across it at full lift.

AD
 
How do you convert from a Air Vane Meter system to a MAF?

Simple answer? you don't.

When I spent all my time playing with turbo stuff there was a running joke about the MAF converted cars...

Leaving the big Show at Carlisle you could identify the MAF converted cars...

They were the ones broken down when trying to leave the fairgrounds. :)

Then again there were also cars broken down because someone opened up the VAF in some misguided attempt to modify it.

And I'd never consider using a DPIS head on a turbo engine.

I WOULD consider using the crank trigger off of a DPIS 2.3 to trigger
SINGLE coil pack and the EDIS4 module off of a 91-97Escort.
Why? because I believe the TFI module is sufficiently unreliable
that I wouldn't trust my life to one while driving cross country.

I like the DIS, I don't think the dual plug head is "Better" than the turbo head
particularly for high altitude operation. unless my memory is failing the Dual-plug head has a larger chamber and that reduces mechanical compression.
If I lived in Wyoming or Colorado I'd seriously consider building a turbo engine with flattop pistons and running less boost with a .63A/R turbine housing on it.
Thus making more low-end torque off-boost and "delaying" boost to higher rpm.



AD
 
Took me a while but I finally got a AFPR and a gauge. I set it to 40psi without vac and with vac it makes around 29 psi. Just sitting still, if you rev the engine and build some boost the gauge will read around 42 and then drop to 20 psi. I'm assuming that the pump can't keep up. I have a 255LPH pump and I'll install that in the morning to see if this changes.

Can you just unplug the knock sensor to keep the computer from backing timing? I can tell when an engine is detonating.
 
Last edited:
yeah, you can pull out the pug and be fine. i put a switch in my knock sensor wire and most of the time i have it off unless its really hot outside or i am going up a canyon or something like that.
 

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