Yes. Blk/Wht powers both sides. The passenger side WON'T have a ground; it doesn't need one (because grounding is done back through the driver's switches, for both windows and locks). That's why you had to ground the two window motor wires which originally came from the driver switch, before they were cut. Only the driver switch has ground wires.
The diagram also has a connector pin-out (upper left); look at circuit 57, Blk; there's two pins on the connector, catty-cornered to one another. That wire grounds at G106, which is out on the radiator core support, where the door harness connectors are (yes, yours are chopped). You should be able to pick up Blk 57 where the wires got cut at the door (as splice S117 is in the driver door).
Just follow the diagram to understand how the circuit works; once you understand it it's much easier to work with.
To test the door lock actuator in the passenger door you'll have to do the same routine as you did for the passenger window motor- ground the two wires from the driver side switch, and power Blk/Wht, then work the switch.