Power door lock actuator

[RangerRico]

My passenger door power door lock switch will lock/unlock the drivers side, but will not lock/unlock the passenger door. I have traced electric power all the way to the actuator and electric is good, leaving only the actuator to be the problem.

Now, how in the world do you take this apart to replace the actuator? There is a swivel rod linkage about half way up that attaches to the actual door latch mechanism, then the rod continues up from there to the push/pull knob. I can't get enough room to get inside there to remove the swivel rods, nor can I figure out how the actuator is mounted in order to remove it.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[RobbieD]

I have traced electric power all the way to the actuator and electric is good, leaving only the actuator to be the problem.

Not neccessarily. The door locks operate on a reversal, rest at ground circuit. The non-powering wire must be ground in order for the actuator to operate. You need to test across the two wires; not just that you have power when the switch is operated.

If your actuator is fried, remove it by spreading the arms of the nylon mounting bracket, then allowing the actuator to unscrew from the linkage rod. The end of the rod is spiral like a screw, and don't lose the tiny ball bearings that go into the actuator's collar.

 

[RangerRico]

Thanks Robbie. So I take it I need to skin back a place in each wire going to the actuator, attach the test light clip to one wire, the point of the testor into the other wire, then test the switch to see if current passes through ?

 

[RobbieD]

Yes, you've got it on the testing procedure.

Either probe both terminals of the connector that plugs into the actuator (I can't remember if these can be accessed mounted); or, you can run stick pins through the wire to connect the meter or test light probes to. And you can always strip insulation off of the wires to test. Just tape everything up when done or the wire will corrode later.