Possibly a stupid question

[rusty ol ranger]

The bracket is whats actually bad.

Ill pry go ahead and do both if the bracket ever gets here.

I found also i need to do the passenger side axle shaft joint and shaft bearing.

Add shit to the pile lol

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The bracket is whats actually bad.

Ill pry go ahead and do both if the bracket ever gets here.

I found also i need to do the passenger side axle shaft joint and shaft bearing.

Add shit to the pile lol

Sounds like an excuse to swap in a D-35

 

[mr_manny]

Scored a set of 3.73 axles (D35/8.8LSD) from a 94 4.0 ranger this week.
Have been looking for awhile.

What's that saying, good things come to those who wait

 

[scotts90ranger]

The bracket is whats actually bad.

Ill pry go ahead and do both if the bracket ever gets here.

I found also i need to do the passenger side axle shaft joint and shaft bearing.

Add shit to the pile lol

Hopefully it's just the outer joint, that inner joint is a pain since there's a C clip holding that shaft into the diff... just so you know you'll have to cut the clamp on the boot between the two halves of that axle shaft. If you get two of the narrow screw type hose clamps or however many you need to get to that size that works to replace it...

 

[bobbywalter]

i would rip it all out....even the coil buckets....repair the rot...replace the brackets.....clean it all up and prep and paint it...

then reassemble.

only way to go.

 

[gaz]

@rusty ol ranger
If you installed extended radius arms, you would not need to replace the stock bracket($). If I had one side fail, I would replace both sides.

My local Firestone dealership is slow in Saturdays, because if this they offer a "Saturday LIFETIME alignment" package for +$35!! I've taken them up in this for every vehicle I own, FOREVER!! I get two alignments a year, whether I think that I need them or not, let alone any time that I change a significant suspension component ..)

My grandfather would say that spending extra money is not saving any money but in this case...I'm completely certain that the case stands for itself

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Hopefully it's just the outer joint, that inner joint is a pain since there's a C clip holding that shaft into the diff... just so you know you'll have to cut the clamp on the boot between the two halves of that axle shaft. If you get two of the narrow screw type hose clamps or however many you need to get to that size that works to replace it...

I was wondering about those clamps. They look just like the pinch clamps i used to rig my water supply line to the house back togther. I got a pair of those special pliers for that too. So i think im set there.

I havent checked the inner joints (good) yet. If those are fried ill just refrain from using 4wd all winter lol and fix the drive stuff in spring.

i would rip it all out....even the coil buckets....repair the rot...replace the brackets.....clean it all up and prep and paint it...

then reassemble.

only way to go.

The coil buckets are solid yet or seem to be. Really chassis wise the only thing ive seen rotted is that radius arm mount...which i had the same one rot on my F250, and on my ranger.

 

[bobbywalter]

generally the passenger side rots first because of the converter, drivers rot almost always has bridging and bucket build up issues. i suspect you would have seen it if it was bad enough so ya might be good.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I was wondering about those clamps. They look just like the pinch clamps i used to rig my water supply line to the house back togther. I got a pair of those special pliers for that too. So i think im set there.

I havent checked the inner joints (good) yet. If those are fried ill just refrain from using 4wd all winter lol and fix the drive stuff in spring.


The coil buckets are solid yet or seem to be. Really chassis wise the only thing ive seen rotted is that radius arm mount...which i had the same one rot on my F250, and on my ranger.

Yes you could use the stepless clamps if you have the right size, re using what is there is likely not a possibility... I'm crafty but there's no good way to release those things without destroying them.. for whatever reason when I did mine I had a couple decent length narrow screw clamps that worked...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yes you could use the stepless clamps if you have the right size, re using what is there is likely not a possibility... I'm crafty but there's no good way to release those things without destroying them.. for whatever reason when I did mine I had a couple decent length narrow screw clamps that worked...

I’ve used zip ties…

 

[rusty ol ranger]

generally the passenger side rots first because of the converter, drivers rot almost always has bridging and bucket build up issues. i suspect you would have seen it if it was bad enough so ya might be good.

Yes you could use the stepless clamps if you have the right size, re using what is there is likely not a possibility... I'm crafty but there's no good way to release those things without destroying them.. for whatever reason when I did mine I had a couple decent length narrow screw clamps that worked...

i think i got a few left if they aint to big. They are cheaper then standard hose clamps ill just grab a few if need be.

I checked and the inner U joint is good. I got all the other shit coming so ill pry rip into it tomorrow.

 

[scotts90ranger]

They're also less versatile than a screw clamp, their diameter range is like 1/8", I imagine you would have to be pretty lucky for what you have working

 

[bobbywalter]

hd zip tie

 

[scotts90ranger]

Those stainless ones would be pretty nice really for this application especially with a stock setup without a spring in the boot or anything...

 

[rusty ol ranger]

hd zip tie

Ive got a whole bag of those lol.

Maybe ill just use them.

They're also less versatile than a screw clamp, their diameter range is like 1/8", I imagine you would have to be pretty lucky for what you have working

Ill just carry the whole greasy mess into lowes...im sure they wont mind