Possible Upper Front Sway Bar?

[ShotnVA777]

Has anyone ever fabbed one of these up??? Or do they SELL them anywhere??

Reason I ask, is because every CAR I get, that's one of my first additions to the suspension... as it usually doesn't cost much, but its benefits are ALWAYS awesome! It tightens up the steering A LOT!

Nonetheless, we're building a TRUCK here and I can't find ANY information on this??

It's weird, because BOTH of my SUV's, both sitting in my driveway, have them!

I have a 2004 Trailblazer SS 6.0L LS2 V8 and a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limitied 5.9L Hemi... Yes, they're both carrying BIGGER motors, but I feel they need that sway bar protection, just to make the truck more stable! You should see the size of the springs/shocks on the Jeep. SHEESH!!!

ALL of this said... again, this is nothing NEW! Usually they come, looking a little something like THIS... (this is for a Ford Probe GT (latemodel))



It just bolts above/on the "towers" (?), where the spring perch and shock go up into.... visual learner?



I would just like to know why NO ONE makes one of these for a ranger?? Maybe I've hit a goldmine? Because I could MAKE one of these, out of another, EASILY! It would bolt up just like ANY other car...?

So what's the deal with with this???

I feel like it's worth it, always has been... on cars!

Somebody shoot me an answer, I may have a shot at one RIGHT now, the measurements are DAMN close.... and guy only wants $20 for it!

It's BRAND NEW! ($150 on Egay right NOW)!

 

[stmitch]

That's not a sway bar, it's a strut tower brace. Unibody vehicles like most newer cars and SUVs can have a lot of flex in the unibody structure, and having that brace keeps the front struts from flexing independently.

Since your truck has a (relatively) stiff full length frame, the front suspension doesn't flex like it would in a unibody car. Nobody makes a strut tower brace for a Ranger, because there are no struts, strut towers, and the gains from a brace like that would be very small since the truck frame keeps the front suspension on both sides located where it needs to be.

Also, questions like this would be better suited for the 2wd suspension forum, or the mini truck suspension forum instead of the 4cyl engine section. They'll get more of the right kind of attention if they're posted in the proper place.

 

[ShotnVA777]

Honestly I wasn't real sure where to place the thread, but now I do!

I was just kind of throwing it out there, hoping it would catch someone's eye that knew about the subject... I guess I got that part right! Lol

All that said, do you not think that this would be any type of upgrade, whatsoever? Or is it literally just a complete waste of time??? I saw how you said it's how the truck is built, but wasn't real clear on this this would do ANYTHING - literally ANYTHING! Because I'm trying to make this truck handle like a CAR!

By the way, I love your wheels and tires! What are you running? They look staggered...

Are they? And if so, do you get better handling like that? I would also like to know the offset that you're running with those wheels, especially the size though (rims and tyres) ! They look great!!!

How much drop???

 

[stmitch]

I'm going to answer your question with more questions. If you did this, where would you mount the brace? What would the ends attach to?

Unibody cars hang the suspension from the skeleton of the body. Theoretically, this results in less weight, and better ride comfort. The problem, is that you have suspension that is just mounted to weak sheet metal, instead of a sturdy full length frame. To keep the front suspension from caving in, or bowing out during hard driving, people add a brace like the ones you posted to improve handling.

Trucks are not typically unibody construction, because they need a strong frame to carry heavy loads, and keep from twisting while towing. The suspension hangs from this sturdy frame, so it's not going to move under stress like a car suspension would.

In theory, you could brace between the fenders to strengthen the front of the body, but the will only add weight (up front where it's not needed), and won't do anything for the suspension, because the suspension is hung from the frame, instead of the body.

 

[stmitch]

Also, I forgot, my wheels and tires are 18x9 front, and 18x10 rears. Mustang FR500s. There are lots of stats and pics in this thread: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102433

The staggered sizes dont do anything for handling, I just wanted the widest tires I could get in the rear to help with traction. Ideally, they would all be the same size, but you can't fit anything wider than 9 inches in the front of a Ranger without rubbing, or lots of crazy mods.

Honestly, making a truck handle 'like a car' is extremely difficult, because of the design. They have poor weight balance, and suspensions that are designed to haul/tow, instead of cut corners. What I would suggest, is:
1- lower the center of gravity by lowering the truck. This will keep the truck from feeling like it might flip when cornering
2- get bigger sway bars to limit body roll. Most 2wd Rangers don't even have a rear sway bar, so I'd start there. Bronco II's and 4wd rangers usually have nice rear sway bars. There are also aftermarket bars available for the front. There may be bigger bars from other Fords that would be an upgrade, but I'm not familiar with 'yard upgrades for the I-beam trucks.
3- get the widest, stickiest tires you can to increase grip. This will improve handling, braking, and traction, but wide sticky tires are expensive.

I've seen you mention in other threads that you're planning on racing this truck, make sure you have a class in mind, because you don't want to do anything to your truck that would be against the class rules.

 

[adsm08]

In addition to stmitch's points, which are all correct and valid, where are you planning to mount this thing? I have seen a lot of them on Jeeps, Chevies, Fords, all makes. They all bolt to the top of the strut towers, a position that you do not have. The closest thing your truck does have is the spring and shock buckets, which would have it trying to occupy the same space as the cylinder head and intake/exhaust manifolds, or passing through the block.

I don't know much about suspension and engine modifications but I don't think that running a stabilizer through the engine is going to help you meet your goal of 180HP.

 

[ShotnVA777]

I'm going to answer your question with more questions. If you did this, where would you mount the brace? What would the ends attach to?

Unibody cars hang the suspension from the skeleton of the body. Theoretically, this results in less weight, and better ride comfort. The problem, is that you have suspension that is just mounted to weak sheet metal, instead of a sturdy full length frame. To keep the front suspension from caving in, or bowing out during hard driving, people add a brace like the ones you posted to improve handling.

Trucks are not typically unibody construction, because they need a strong frame to carry heavy loads, and keep from twisting while towing. The suspension hangs from this sturdy frame, so it's not going to move under stress like a car suspension would.

In theory, you could brace between the fenders to strengthen the front of the body, but the will only add weight (up front where it's not needed), and won't do anything for the suspension, because the suspension is hung from the frame, instead of the body.

Makes perfect sense... My B, was thinking cars i suppose? This is my first time "building" a truck, learnin as I go!

Also, I forgot, my wheels and tires are 18x9 front, and 18x10 rears. Mustang FR500s. There are lots of stats and pics in this thread: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102433

The staggered sizes dont do anything for handling, I just wanted the widest tires I could get in the rear to help with traction. Ideally, they would all be the same size, but you can't fit anything wider than 9 inches in the front of a Ranger without rubbing, or lots of crazy mods.

Honestly, making a truck handle 'like a car' is extremely difficult, because of the design. They have poor weight balance, and suspensions that are designed to haul/tow, instead of cut corners. What I would suggest, is:
1- lower the center of gravity by lowering the truck. This will keep the truck from feeling like it might flip when cornering
2- get bigger sway bars to limit body roll. Most 2wd Rangers don't even have a rear sway bar, so I'd start there. Bronco II's and 4wd rangers usually have nice rear sway bars. There are also aftermarket bars available for the front. There may be bigger bars from other Fords that would be an upgrade, but I'm not familiar with 'yard upgrades for the I-beam trucks.
3- get the widest, stickiest tires you can to increase grip. This will improve handling, braking, and traction, but wide sticky tires are expensive.

I've seen you mention in other threads that you're planning on racing this truck, make sure you have a class in mind, because you don't want to do anything to your truck that would be against the class rules.

Its not a "class" type of racing at all. Its ONE lap, one on one, with cones (hitting of cone = immediate loss) at a local circle track. From a dead stop, outside lane gets a few car legths for "fairness". Not too much of a bank (I'll try finding a video!). Its fun! Your car must have a valid inspection and tags. All "DD's" out there!

BUT, that said, I want the truck to HANDLE - as well as possible! I have the B2 REAR SWAY BAR already and the STOCK SWAY BAR upfront. I'll be getting a flip kit and springs here soon, with ALL new shocks as well. How much is your truck dropped??

I think I'm going with Diamond Racing Steelies, 16x9/10's in the back and 16x8/9's upfront!

I suppose I can find the right tire for DD'n AS WELL as on the track!

QUOTE=adsm08;1418233]In addition to stmitch's points, which are all correct and valid, where are you planning to mount this thing? I have seen a lot of them on Jeeps, Chevies, Fords, all makes. They all bolt to the top of the strut towers, a position that you do not have. The closest thing your truck does have is the spring and shock buckets, which would have it trying to occupy the same space as the cylinder head and intake/exhaust manifolds, or passing through the block.

I don't know much spension and engine modifications but I don't think that running a stabilizer through the engine is going to help you meet your goal of 180HP.[/QUOTE]

A stabilizer bar has NOTHING to do with my 180hp goal. .. ? Lol

 

[Mark_88]

It would if you pass it through the block of the engine...Adsm08 humour...lol

 

[ShotnVA777]

It would if you pass it through the block of the engine...Adsm08 humour...lol

The one in the Cherokee is BOWED OVER TOP the head(s)/intake mani on the Hemi.

 

[adsm08]

A stabilizer bar has NOTHING to do with my 180hp goal. .. ? Lol

It sure will when it takes out the middle two cylinder to cross the engine bay.

The one in the Cherokee is BOWED OVER TOP the head(s)/intake mani on the Hemi.

But the Cherokee still has the strut towers that come up to the top of the fenders. Your only comparable mounting point doesn't even clear the bottom of the inner-fender well splash guards. To make it bow over top of the engine you would have to add a few 45* bends.

 

[Snoranger]

The one in the Cherokee is BOWED OVER TOP the head(s)/intake mani on the Hemi.

The joke, like all strut tower braces, went right over your head.

 

[4b316]

Do you have a front sway bar?We take one out of a Explorer to use on the race truck.Really tightens up the lean angles and keeps the tires planted.

 

[ShotnVA777]

The joke, like all strut tower braces, went right over your head.

Thanks brotha ... Preciate the sarcasm!

Do you have a front sway bar?We take one out of a Explorer to use on the race truck.Really tightens up the lean angles and keeps the tires planted.

Yea, I have the STOCK front sway bar, not sure if an aftermarket would be BETTER though?

And I have one off a 1990 B2 in the rear!

 

[ShotnVA777]

Here's what we do at the local circle track on wed....

http://youtu.be/HhWNpsgixiI

There's ALSO a street course they setup in a MUCH bigger area, two times a year... Its an old runway/airport.

I'd LOVE to go to either in a "Stockish" looking Ranger and COMPETE!

I still need to grab a 4.10 rearend from an explorer, that way I don't have to buy the "flip kit" AND I'll have my gearing where I want it...

Plus springs for up front, wheels/tyres... Then some good shocks all around!

Is a notch kit 100% needed for this??? No problem if so, and I think I'll do it EITHER WAY, as I don't want my axle hitting my frame - EVER! But was just wondering.

I've read were ppl won't drop a Ranger without the notch, and I've read that some don't EVER even come CLOSE to the frame!

I just need the best handling possible... I'd LOVE IT if I could get that b**** on 3 wheels like that supercharged Civic Hatch on the video I posted! I d'uno of that's even POSSIBLE with a Rang! Lol

 

[ShotnVA777]

THIS is how my truck handles NOW... check out my picture on my profile to see how HIGH it sits! This is with stock suspension ALL around and JUST a B2 Swaybar in the rear.... stock sway bar upfront!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVczTNXJwU4&feature=share&list=UUcTNqIXf77K2uGrC_C2rz_g&index=1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lP8d_KnNjAI&feature=share&list=UUcTNqIXf77K2uGrC_C2rz_g