Spent most of my weekend running around hauling things for people and myself while the weather is nice.
Scored three more 38.5s with a touch more tread and zero cracking. Two are in really good shape, but one has a cut down the middle, it doesn’t leak, but looks sketch.
Then I stopped by Brads (036speed) to try out the bender (JD Model 4 w/ air over hydro). I found some 1.25” conduit with 1.5” OD to test on. Once we figured out where the bends start and how close we could get them to one another…we stuffed the .25” wall in and gave it a try.
It bent it like butter and turned out pretty good for a couple rookies.lol
It will fit perfect from the looks of it. I have an extra 3-4” on both ends so I room to wiggle with my brackets.
Bolted up some rollers so I can get the Ranger in position to yank the engine out and get cracking on the crossmember….I think I might just stick with 28” skinnies….lol
Also did a lot of research on my rim/backspace/beadlock situation. I called a bunch of places that sell rim shells in hopes of finding one with the “valley” (drop center) in a more desirable location where it wont hit the caliper when the rim is reversed, but came to the conclusion that all 15x8 steel shells are basically the same. I really wanted to get to 3” BS so I don’t snap a ball joint or something. I started reading more about shallow BS wheels that have reversed shells (the valley is closer to the inside) and found that the outer bead is typically the only one that gets locked because it is the weaker bead on a typical rim. If the bead is pushed .5” it will drop into the valley..where as the inner has 3” or so before the bead drops in…..so when a rim is reversed..the inner bead is the weak bead and you will rarely debead a tire anyhow. Next issue is mounting a tire on a bead locked reversed rim…you typically cant.lol The tire wont stretch over the rim with the valley offset to the inside. The only rim that some people have managed to mount them on are 15x8s…and only certain tires.lol
So long story short. I cut the tacks and pushed the center back out of the rim I had worked on. I flipped back to stock and cheated it in as far as I could without loosing the snug fit…ended up with 3.125” BS…..I am happy with that. The rotor sits flush with the inner lip and my ball joints will be happier. I also welded up the valve stem hole and cleaned the powder coat of the lip where the beadlock goes. Now just waiting for parts.
Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register
for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts. 
