Plugs and wires

[Dvine]

Her guys. I'm getting a tick/clicking sound from cylinders. I believe it's middle passenger side, #4? Extreme shaking after 60mph. Gutless. Idle rpms bounce. Started checking around, one plug lose (not suspect) and the suspect cylinder is in picture. My current question is, why is there no green gel stuff in one out of 6 plugs?

New photo · Saturday, May 30, 2020 📸

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[RonD]

Cylinders on Fords are number this way, on V6 or V8 numbering starts on passenger side front to back then to drivers side front to back
So V6 would be
3 6
2 5
1 4
front

So #2 would be middle of passenger side
Ford calls passenger side bank 1, and drivers side bank 2

People often put dielectric grease in the BOOTS of spark plug wires, NOT on the metal parts that are suppose to conduct the spark
Dielectric grease prevents moisture intrusion and can keep the boots from getting stuck to spark plug or coil pack

Dielectric grease is used because it does NOT conduct electricity like other types of grease can, so avoid getting it on the metal conductors of wires, clean it off if seen on the metal parts

Ford Motorcraft Spark plug wires last about 10 years before they need to be changed, other brands less




FYI, Chevy/GM numbers cylinders this way, start on Drivers side and cross over to other side then back to drivers side
So GM V6 would be
6 5
4 3
2 1
front
So odd and even bank numbers

So #4 would be correct if it was a GM engine/vehicle

 

[Dvine]

Appreciate the layout. Not having gel is OK, make sure gel is inside not outside of metal. Back to poking around, should I delete this post?

 

[Uncle Gump]

No... don't delete it... it isn't fixed yet.

Engine tick... when is the last time you changed the oil? How many miles?

RPM's bounce at idle... I always start looking for vacuum leaks. If ok... clean the MAF and IAC.

Shakes and gutless at cruise... When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced? I would also check your fuel pressure as a starting point.

If you're going to tune it up... use Motorcraft or Autolite plugs. Nothing else will do. Same with filters... you can buy Motorcraft filters at Walmart... and they're cheap.

 

[Dvine]

Bought this as is. Less than 7k on air filter. Mechanic wrote it on air box. Spark wires look new. So I think that was part of getting it to run prior to selling. I know there is exhaust leak, probably gasket on headers. I customized the factory air box to be less restrictive and now I get steady rpms. Kind of. It starts cold and idle at 1500. As it warms it likes 1200 little bounce to 1000 occasionally. After giving gas for a couple mins it seems to stay at 700. This is running engine for 20 min.
Oil Change tomorrow, will update after so stay tuned!!!

 

[Dirtman]

For the love of god use motorcraft or autolite plugs and wires... i just had a set of non motorcraft wires on my 2.3 that started arcing through after about 5,000 miles. They "looked" brand new until you took them off and inspected them close and could see the small arc marks.

 

[Dvine]

I will check on that after oil change. Want to get plug puller before sparks

 

[Dvine]

No... don't delete it... it isn't fixed yet.

Engine tick... when is the last time you changed the oil? How many miles?

RPM's bounce at idle... I always start looking for vacuum leaks. If ok... clean the MAF and IAC.

Shakes and gutless at cruise... When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced? I would also check your fuel pressure as a starting point.

If you're going to tune it up... use Motorcraft or Autolite plugs. Nothing else will do. Same with filters... you can buy Motorcraft filters at Walmart... and they're cheap.

Oil tested, copper levels fine.
Does exhaust leak count as vacuum leak? I assume so. I believe all my symptoms can be attributed to that leak. Heard a lot of Fords since last update, and a lot of the 90 looking ones have the same noise. Some that look well taken care of. Question is: Assuming the exhaust leak is causing all problems, how hard on the engine would that be? Just loss of power and mpgs?
Valve cover is leaking but in 8 months I'm still not quite down to full. Was a bit over filled when bought in November 2019.

 

[Dirtman]

Exhaust leak is not a vacuum leak but can cause a rich running condition if the leak is before the upstream o2 sensor. The leak will cause the o2 sensor to under report the amount of fuel in the exhaust and the computer will compensate by adding more fuel. Not good for the catalytic converter.

 

[adsm08]

Exhaust leak is not a vacuum leak but can cause a rich running condition if the leak is before the upstream o2 sensor. The leak will cause the o2 sensor to under report the amount of fuel in the exhaust and the computer will compensate by adding more fuel. Not good for the catalytic converter.

Oxygen sensors don't report the amount of fuel in anything. They report the amount of oxygen. It causes a rich condition because fresh air entering between the cylinder and the sensor makes it over-report the amount of oxygen left over from the combustion event.

 

[Dvine]

Exhaust leak is not a vacuum leak but can cause a rich running condition if the leak is before the upstream o2 sensor. The leak will cause the o2 sensor to under report the amount of fuel in the exhaust and the computer will compensate by adding more fuel. Not good for the catalytic converter.

Well, '93 so no emissions.... Under report fuel, over report oxygen, either way is going to add fuel right? Rich running effectively lowers mpg, probably power also. Especially when flooring it. Failing O2 sensor cause the same effect? That's the one on the y pipe correct? Leak is for sure gasket on headers. They look so bad im buying new ones. But either way, it doesn't sound like a cylinder miss fire anymore? To me anyway.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

If you hear the ticking just when you first start it cold, but then goes away as it warms up, that's normal (for a 4.0ohv). I think its because of the narrow oil passages in the pushrods or somethin like that.