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please help


4x4TILL_I_DIE

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2008
Messages
181
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
Ok so I got this back rack from a guy my dad works with. He had it mounted in his ranger but he doesn’t have a toolbox and I do and I’m not getting rid of it. I was thinking of running a brace from the center of the rack to the center of my toolbox since I have bifold doors I have a nice space in the middle to work with or I could run a brace from the center of the toolbox to each end of the rack like a triangle:icon_welder:. What do you think any ideas welcome. Did I mention I got the rack for FREE:yahoo:
100_0498.jpg
100_0497.jpg
This is it set up against my truck for scale its pretty heavy duty.
 
oh and the aluminum plates are for looks the guy had the whole thing covered with it but he took a lot off for other projects on his truck. So it just looks a little funny now I will get some and finish it again later. When I get it mounted I'm getting 5 KC lights with light bar from a buddy and mounting on top of the rack it'll be sweet.:icon_thumby:
 
It shouldn't be hard at all to move the tool box back an inch or two, to allow you to put the rack in front of it.

Honestly, I think it looks pretty goofy being behind the box, considering they are supposed to protect the rear window...
 
Most of the headache racks I have seen that do not secure to the front of the bed with a long bars are secured with angled stk along the sides under the box.

This Rack does not appear to be for a Ranger, the shape is off, the 3rd brake light is blocked and no support system.

R U just trying to make it fit ?
Since it was for free, how about mod'g it to fit, chg the shape a little, use the material and reshape the sides and top some to fit the contour of the cab ?

Sorry, I like the idea but not this rack.
 
NO NO NO... I'm not mounting it where it's sitting in the pictures, that would look so retarted.:icon_rofl: It's going in front of the toolbox I just set it there to show how wide it was and how wide my toolbox is to show my problem. The rack was originaly for a fullsize truck it was chopped and reworked to fit a stx ranger bed.:icon_welder:

As for the no support problem that's what this whole post is about on how I can make supports for it.:idiot:
hope this will clear up the problems
 
im thinking if you take the box out or slide it forward you can get your measurements of the front of the box (width) and the width of your tool box (front to back) and then cut 2 pieces of 1-1/2 x 2" angle iron that are as wide as tool box and then cut 2 more pieces of the same material about 8 inches long. standing in the bed and looking forward at the back window, you place the 2 -8" pieces along the front of the bed at the outer edges so you have the 2" portion pointing down and the 1-1/2" portion sitting flat on the front bed rail. then place your 2 pieces that were cut as long as box on the bed rails and butt them up against the front pieces, so that they are 90 degrees to eachother. now place your headache rack at the front of the bed ontop of the angle iron and tack weld everything together. now set your box back ontop of the angle iron and mark your holes that will be holding the box down (probably the same holes as before unless you want to add more. once everything is marked, finish welding it together and then drill your holes. if i had my camera i could post a pic.
 
I thought about that but it would stick out off the side of the truck I'd guess 4"-6" on each side and that would look pretty stupid. Not to mention it would create a heck of a lot a drag.
 
i dont see what is going to create drag. from the looks of the headache rack i think it will create drag as it doesnt look like it fits the cab correctly, but maybe i drew the picture a little off scale as well?
 
I'll have to try to get the toolbox off sometime this weedend I had a buddy help me put it on because I couldn't get my dang hand under to put the nut on the bolt because my hands are to big. My buddy's hand it a lot smaller and skinnyer and he got the ones closest to cab on all I could get at were the first two. We'll give it a try, I'm not in a big hurry I still have to round up some scrap metal to mount it up anyways.
 
Well I got the toolbox out and got some aluminum plate. I repainted the rack all silver and painted some of the angle iron mounts. I have one more mount to go, the brace that I have yet to bend because I haven't had time to get to a bender, then I'll paint it and mount it up.
 
Got it all mounted up i'm just waiting on the lights. I'm going to have to upgrade from my 95a to a 135a alternator so I can run all 4 of the KC 100w lights for more than a little bit. I talked to my local mechanic and he said my stock alternator could only pull 2 of the lights not all 4. I'll post pics when I get the lights and get them mounted.
 
Well, I=p/v so 100 devided by 12 equals around 8, multiply that by 4 and that's 32. What other horrendous drain do you have on your electrical system?
 
The guy that I bought them off of only has a 95a alternator and he ran all 4 at once but never for a very long time. I have no other huge strain on the system. I know I can have all 4 on at the same time but to run them for a long time he said I'd need a bigger one but I don't know. A crown victoria has the 135a alternator but I don't know if it would bolt up to a ranger or not, I could get my hands on a crown victoria alternator for little to nothing because it's a pretty common derby car around here.
 

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