Please help.

[Nickw]

Hi everyone I have a 94 ranger 2.3 and I can't seem to get it to start. Let me start with what's been going on with the truck. About 2 weeks ago i took a short ride. The truck ran good but after I shut the truck off it wouldn't start. Things I have replaced are. New fuel pump,fuel filter, timing belt(about 10k ago)coils,spark plugs. I also wired the sending unit direct to eliminated some of the wires for a temp fix. The motor cranks fine and will try to start but its like there is no gas but when I push the valve in on the fuel rail gas comes out. Can someone please help me this motor has around 200k on it but I'm not ready to junk it yet as when the motor runs it runs good. My dad had the same motor in his truck and he had 358k on the motor before it was junked.

 

[Nickw]

Also I forgot to post the truck will start and run if you spray starter fluid in the intake. But will stall after all is burnt.

 

[Mark_88]

Well, someone just posted these exact symptoms recently...I think it was an injector or something to do with the injectors...firing when you spray starter fluid in means you have spark...and there is no fuel...

you can try searching for that or read through the last few posts in this section...I will try searching it...

 

[Nickw]

Mark thanks for your reply. I do believe its something in the injectors. I'm new here so still trying to learn how to use this site I did look over about 14 pages in the 2000 and older section and didnt find what I was looking for.(might have just over looked it). What tells the injectors when to fire? Is it the brain itself? Thanks again.

 

[Mark_88]

I tried searching too but I think it was actually in the "urgent help needed"...and I checked that thread but didn't see anything that clicked.

I'm not that familiar with the various and assorted fuel injection part of things...although I've read a few hundred posts and tried to understand it better because I've been thinking about converting from my carbureted setup if I can find a complete truck to swap things over...

I know there are a few changes in things as to what controls what, but I think the computer is the key...you could try looking through the on-line repair manual also to troubleshoot this, but guys like RonD seem to know much more about these systems than I do presently...I guess if you wait a few hours or days you will get the reply you need to fix this, but you could start by checking the codes...that doesn't require the engine running if it already threw a code and it may give you the insight you need right away.

 

[adsm08]

The injectors all share a single power buss, and then are ground-side switched individually by the computer.

It sounds like all of your injectors have gone off line at once, which makes me suspect a problem on the power side of things. Pop the front injector plug off and see if there is any power getting to it with the key on.

 

[Nickw]

My father in-law has a 98 ranger for junk price would the injectors and fuel rail swap?

 

[adsm08]

My father in-law has a 98 ranger for junk price would the injectors and fuel rail swap?

Probably not, not that it is relevant yet since we are interested in a wiring issue, not a fuel injector/rail issue.

Go check power, tell me what you find. We will get your truck running again.

 

[Nickw]

Ok I will check tomorrow.

 

[Nickw]

Ok guys I pulled the wire of the injector on the #1cyl. I used a light tester I got power. What's the next thing I should do?

 

[adsm08]

Hook a test light between the other wire and the battery + and crank it. Light should light up dimly.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[DJ2.3]

Do what ADSM said, but if possible use an led test light. It will be more obvious if the ecu is grounding the inj because led light doesn't take much current to light it, and it could be bad for the ecu using a standard test light.

 

[Nickw]

Ok guys its been a few days but I got a volt tester now. What is the ecu? I know thats what honda calls the brain is it the same with ford?

 

[Nickw]

Any thoughts guys?

 

[Mark_88]

A test light would work better for what you are trying to do...they are about $5 at many places...you might be able to borrow one though...they sort of look like a screw driver with a point at one end, a ground wire (maybe) and have a light in the handle...when you stab the wire with the end and turn the key on you should get the light to light up (test it on the battery first to make sure the light lights up)...but if you buy one it usually has basic instructions on how they work and what you will see...

if not...search Google for test light use to troubleshoot automotive electrical issues...or something similar...

This is one link that might help, but they use something different...

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bg0HYr3SYYw)

This, however, is a test light...

http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=...hGIyyygGSoIHQCg&sqi=2&ved=0CEoQ9QEwBQ&dur=709

There are instructions on line on how to use the test light and you might want to watch a few of the videos to help yourself out of this one...