Ping, surging, revving?

[trinogt]

Thanks for the help, guys...

As a matter of fact, I DO have aftermarket sensor/sending unit, and yes, they will plug into either connector. When I plug one connector into the front sensor, it reads 185 degrees (according to scan tool). When I plug into the other sender, it reads 97 degrees.
I just replaced each unit with one that had the same brass body and plastic color connector, to make sure of the proper hookup. Obviously, the temp sender is screwy. No matter with unit I plug that connector into, I get no reading from the dash gauge, but I can peg the gauge by shorting a lead to ground.
I think I bought a bad sender! I will let you guys know how I make out.
By the way, does anyone know if a clogged heater core will keep these engines from cooling properly? I was thinking of bypassing the HC and see if the pinging stops...

 

[modelageek]

Thanks for the help, guys...

As a matter of fact, I DO have aftermarket sensor/sending unit, and yes, they will plug into either connector. When I plug one connector into the front sensor, it reads 185 degrees (according to scan tool). When I plug into the other sender, it reads 97 degrees.
I just replaced each unit with one that had the same brass body and plastic color connector, to make sure of the proper hookup. Obviously, the temp sender is screwy. No matter with unit I plug that connector into, I get no reading from the dash gauge, but I can peg the gauge by shorting a lead to ground.
I think I bought a bad sender! I will let you guys know how I make out.
By the way, does anyone know if a clogged heater core will keep these engines from cooling properly? I was thinking of bypassing the HC and see if the pinging stops...

your HC has nothing to do with it. coolant is always running thru the HC. you definitly have something screwy going on with the sensors, I would take resistance readings of both of them when they were hot and cold. You can use the link I gave you earlier to check on the ect. the gauge sender should be about 150 ohms hot and 10,000 cold

 

[trinogt]

Ok, I replaced the sending unit with a new Ford replacement. Now, with the engine at it's 'warmest', it barely even reaches the 'C' of cold, not even within normal range. Scan tool registers 179-185 degrees, still not up to operating temps. Why is it running so cool? This is the third thermostat, trying to rule out a bad one, and I still get the same result. I do however have two hot heater hoses now, after flushing with 'Peak' radiator flush and reversing flow direction through the heater core. Still, the heat is poor from it.
Anyone have any ideas what the problem could be? I am still baffled...

 

[modelageek]

Ok, I replaced the sending unit with a new Ford replacement. Now, with the engine at it's 'warmest', it barely even reaches the 'C' of cold, not even within normal range. Scan tool registers 179-185 degrees, still not up to operating temps. Why is it running so cool? This is the third thermostat, trying to rule out a bad one, and I still get the same result. I do however have two hot heater hoses now, after flushing with 'Peak' radiator flush and reversing flow direction through the heater core. Still, the heat is poor from it.
Anyone have any ideas what the problem could be? I am still baffled...

these engines run cold, however that sounds a little to cold. I have a 192 F tstat and i know it eventually opens, I put the cardboard in front of the radiator but i don't know if that would help you much because your tstat is not even opening. You have the Motorcraft 192 F tstat in there correct? From what I recall about these engines is that the heater hoses are always open, regardless of the the position of the tstat, if you have a 180 F tstat all that will do is open up sooner and cool of the coolant for the heat. you want the 192 or 195 Motorcraft tstat.

 

[trinogt]

My thermostat is opening ok. The upper rad hose gets hot eventually, indicating it is opening up. I have been reading that Ford possibly over engineered the cooling system on these trucks, so my next move is to try cardboard. I got the 195 thermostat, or 192, whichever stock is. I want to get it up to a consistant 195 degrees. I am wondering now if the pinging is from an EGR that isn't opening at speed. The EGR does work when I apply vacuum, as it almost kills the engine at idle, but the problem may be from a lack of vacuum supply when the engine needs is (1500 rpm or above). I traced the EGR vac line to a device which has three vac lines t-ing from it, but not sure how I am going to test that, other than putting a vac gauge on the EGR vac supply line and bringing the rpms up to see if it supplies vacuum. Need to get a gauge.

 

[trinogt]

Update: I just put some cardboard on the radiator, covering around 80 percent of it. Driving around, I can get it up to the first quarter on the temp gauge, with scan tool telling me 188 degrees max. Still no 195, but the greatest effect I have found so far? No more surging when I step on the clutch to downshift! I would always come to a stop with the engine revving over 2000 rpm for 5 seconds. I noticed that has stopped completely. I guess it's because the temp sensor indicated cold engine, so richened fuel mixture as in cold start strategy. I am expecting better fuel economy now, too. So far no bad side effect of the cardboard. Next, I will check vacuum to the EGR at speed, once I get a vac gauge. I will post results.