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Pics of my project


I took a pic of the truck in the front yard today. The leaves give it the appearence of being body dropped. Lol.

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You are one crazy fabricator, and the thing is you know i will be watching all the way. Its builds like these that really make me keep coming back.:icon_hornsup:
 
An update...I bought these GT40 heads from a junkyard for only $55 each! Stellar deal right? That's what I thought. I dropped em off at the machine shop and must have bragged about the great deal I got on them. Bad idea. I made up for the money I saved by paying the machine shops' utilities for the next month or two. Uggh.

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The engine is out and on the stand. I wanted to replace the main and rod bearings because it had low oil pressure at idle.

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Turns out it has TRW Forged pistons in it. I was thinking it had the stockers for some reason.It also appears that the head was lifting a little. You can see the clean spots on the pistons near the coolant passage in the head gasket.

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Today I dropped the block off at the machine shop. The cylinders will get honed, the cam bearings replaced, and the mains line honed. I should have it back late next week.
 
it's gonna be bad ass. Have you considered swapping cams from that B cam you have? I know there are better options to work well with those GT40's.
 
Such as? I'm always open to change and the cam is out of the block....BTW- I found an E cam in the block instead of the B cam that I was told was in it.
 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-35-351-8/
or this one that has more lift
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-35-324-8/
or this one that has a little more duration
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-35-328-8/

I would run any one of those. They are dual pattern cams which is better then the E cam (which is better than the B cam) that are single pattern cams (intake and exhaust durrations are the same). Coming from the Mustang world, the comp cams are the way to go. The ford letter cams are old technology and are outdated. You want a cam that has more exhaust durration than intake because of the ford head designs.

And be sure the check your springs for the cam you run, they should be matched for seat pressure and open pressure. Would be a good time to get some new match springs no matter what way you go on a cam.

And another option, leave your cam alone and get some 1.7 roller rockers (I am running those on my stock cam). They will add about .030 lift to a .500 lift cam and can be had for around $200.

like these

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66878/
 
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So I got the engine block back. Partially assembled and getting a paint job

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I had to order some parts and all the gaskets so while I'm waiting, I decided to start smoothing the truck out for paint.

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I made fillers for the stake pockets. I also filled some holes that the previous owner had drilled. The fuel filler door is also going to be shaved.

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It's a good thing that you're re-doing the paint job. Not that I don't like it, but I learned from my autobody guy that those year rangers(yours and mine are the same year) used a 1 stage paint system.

That means it has no clearcoat, it turns pink in the sunlight, and it rubs off as a powder residue. Did you notice that when you were sanding the box?

It was an awesome ranger, now it's going to be a MEGA-AWESOME ranger!!!!!
 

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