Pedal to the floor while driving?

[road_warrior64]

1993 Ford Ranger 2.3 5-speed. The clutch pedal has been getting mushy lately. I've discovered that if you are accelerating and push in the clutch pedal, it will go to the floor with little resistance. However, the clutch remains engaged and the truck continues to accelerate. If you let off the gas, the clutch pedal resistance returns. There is no slipping and the truck has 110,000 miles. I find myself pumping the clutch pedal to build up pressure. Friends say that it is the slave cylinder but I've read tons of post about air in the lines/bleeding issues. There was some fluid around the transmission / bell housing a few months ago but not so much lately. Before I attempt my first transmission removal, any advice or thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!

JC
road_warrior64

 

[fastpakr]

Slave.

No idea on the connection with acceleration. Pretty confident that's somehow in your head.

 

[disciplerocks]

Make sure you have plenty of fluid in your reservoir. Shouldn't have air in there unless it ran empty or you changed something (slave cylinder) May be the slave cylinder itself. If its the clutch I would drive it till it fails and pray that you are not too far from home. Replacing the clutch is not that hard, just time consuming.

 

[BeefStew42791]

if you had fluid around the bell housing that wasn't there before then you had a leak somewhere. If it was in the area of the slave cylinder then either (1) it's bad or (2) the connection to the hose went bad or (3) the hose sprung a leak in that area. All three have one consequence though..leak of fluid until its gone, which would explain why its not had much leaking anymore.
To check the fluid in your line there's a reservoir mounted on the firewall in the extreme upper-driver's side corner area. Dust off the cap, open it, and pull out your rubber dust shield, if there's no fluid in the plastic reservoir then guess what..there's a leak. The question now though is how much needs to be replaced...

 

[road_warrior64]

Thanks for the great info. I may try to bleed the system before I attempt major surgery. I'll post an update as things progress.

JC

 

[HareRazor]

Since it's a 4 cylinder the hardest part of removing the transmission will be probably removing the transmission cross member if it is the kind that has the bolt that likes to get stuck in the bushings. I doubt bleeding the system will buy you much time.

 

[Duane867]

Shoot it with some PB blast and let her sit an hour or two spraying it every so often.
They'll break loose with a breaker bar after wards. The second hardest to break loose are the trans mount bolts. ( PITA'S ! )
But with out question the hardest to get to are the two bell housing to block bolts up top. Do not attempt to bolt them up with the trans cross member in place. You need that little drop, as well don't attempt to remove them with the trans cross member in place. Then you have the bracket bolts and the through bolts that go through the bracket block and bell housing. You have to use a wrench on those and inch them out.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

Friends say that it is the slave cylinder but I've read tons of post about air in the lines/bleeding issues.

Here's the real question though. If there is air in the line, where did it some from? Unless you've bled the system recently and botched it, that air got in through a leaking seal, either at the master cylinder or slave cylinder. Fluid around the bell housing says slave cylinder.
I'd probably put a new clutch kit in it even if it doesn't necessarily need it yet, and check on the rear main while you're in there. 110k miles, it's probably fine but it doesn't hurt to have a look and make sure it's not starting to weep.

 

[bcost882]

it might be the slave was leaking but not quite dead and sucked air into the lines which can cause it. so when you refill and bleed check it every little bit to see if there is oil stains around and then you can track it down otherwise change the slave if nothing presents

 

[SanFelipe]

Anyone have the procedure on bleeding this system?

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

Just like brakes. Crack the bleeder screw open, have a friend depress the pedal, tighten the screw, release the pedal, repeat until air is gone or new fluid runs from the bleeder.
You can do it yourself with a one man brake bleeder kit, or just a clear piece of hose and a catch can. Look in the yard equipment section at your local parts store for 1/4" clear fuel hose. You can usually get 2 feet for like $1.50. Cheaper than the one man bleeder kits that are like $15 now and don't work any different.
Keep a very close eye on the fluid level in the reservoir and top off often.

If it's the older type with no bleeder screws you have to bench bleed the master and slave together, connected to the hose, and install it in the truck without disconnecting the hose.