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"PCKNPLL" BUILD THREAD! NA @ 180hp!


Well.... I got my VC blasted and painted! Everything else will be blasted and POWDERCOATED!

IMAG1768_zpsa18ca504.jpg


Oh yea... I have a BRAND new oil fill cap on the way lol!
 
Just wanted to know, how are you running 200 hp? I see from your profile that you've turbo'd, but what else did you do? And what kind of boost/turbo are you running?

Just stock stuff, I figure stock they are rated at ~175hp at 9psi, mine runs 12psi after the porting and boost controller disconnected, as well as knock sensor, 200 might be higher than actual but with premium and the octane switch it should be close, SVO's were rated about that...
 
You should not have gasket matched the intake, even a high flow ported head doesn't go to the full size of the gasket.
 
You should not have gasket matched the intake, even a high flow ported head doesn't go to the full size of the gasket.

It won't make but a BETTER flowing intake, once that thick gasket is laid on it! It's ported, quite a bit, that means more flow on the bench. I'm a machinist (apprentice).

It will flow better than stock once the head is built and P&P'd by the machine shop. (When it will be installed (the intake mani) lol) '

This is just going to be temporary anyhow, with the adapter for the carbed setup (havent decided on WHAT Carb yet! Recommendationz???)'Until I can get the Esslinger Intake Manifold 4bbl.

The ENTIRE motor is practically being rebuilt, from the ground up! Complete build!
 
You will actually decrease the cfm of airflow, because the idea of matching the intake to the head is to minimize turbulence. You just made the turbulence waaaaaay worse with that, not to mention you are going to get fuel pooling at the head right there. The flow is only going to be as good as the entire tube. Any turbulence will hurt performance, and tour best gains will be by porting around the valve and valve guide. You should have port matched the intake to the head. Which is also almost not needed. For the performance goals you have, the port size should remain stock.
 
Subbed for the learning curve. I want to put a I4 in my race truck for a different class. I'm also a cheap bastard so a build using stock[ish] parts catches my interest.
One thing you can try while the head is off is to clock your sparkplugs so the open end faces the intake valve.
Good luck in the build,

Richard
 
As for the carb, use a Holley 350 cfm carb. Don't use anything bigger, bigger isn't better. If you over carb any motor you will make less power than an undercarbed motor.
 
They went to the D-port because the oval port is way too big for an engine of this size, on the old 2.0 Pinto engine we used to fill the bottom of the port around a 1/4" making it a D-port because it had the same problem the ports were too big. We kept filling the bottom of the intake ports until the flow just started to drop off so we didn't reduce the cfm flow of the port, but what we did is increase the velocity (speed) in which the air/fuel went into the engine, which = more hp. The major bottle neck in just about any cylinder head is usually the exhaust ports.
 
You will actually decrease the cfm of airflow, because the idea of matching the intake to the head is to minimize turbulence. You just made the turbulence waaaaaay worse with that, not to mention you are going to get fuel pooling at the head right there. The flow is only going to be as good as the entire tube. Any turbulence will hurt performance, and tour best gains will be by porting around the valve and valve guide. You should have port matched the intake to the head. Which is also almost not needed. For the performance goals you have, the port size should remain stock.

Well screw it.... Its not "smooth" at all, so there will still be velocity I feel like. It will be matched to the head due to the GASKET! Right? Or wrong??? Air shouldn't escape... Anyways, this is just temporary, until I can get the Esslinger Mani! Its all good in the hood, for now!

That said, those injector ports "humps" HAVE to flow better, getting them out of the way

Subbed for the learning curve. I want to put a I4 in my race truck for a different class. I'm also a cheap bastard so a build using stock[ish] parts catches my interest.
One thing you can try while the head is off is to clock your sparkplugs so the open end faces the intake valve.
Good luck in the build,

Richard

Welcome to my world, shooting for the exact same thing! Ill ask about clocking the sparkplugs to my machine shop. Anyways, we'll BOTH be learning, thats why i made this thread! Haha... Even though ill be the "ginny pig"... WHATEVER! IM DOWN!

Thanks for the sub tho... The more the marrier (sp?)! Lol...

As for the carb, use a Holley 350 cfm carb. Don't use anything bigger, bigger isn't better. If you over carb any motor you will make less power than an undercarbed motor.

I actually was going to go SMALLER, leaner is meaner right? Whats a slightly smaller, cheaper carb, that i can just jet correctly?? Also, i need links to know EXACTLY what cam and valves (head components) i NEED to run 7500rpms safely, with the high compression flat top pistons (bored .030 over) and the milled/worked head! (Just NOT SURE what to "work it" WITH! lol)

They went to the D-port because the oval port is way too big for an engine of this size, on the old 2.0 Pinto engine we used to fill the bottom of the port around a 1/4" making it a D-port because it had the same problem the ports were too big. We kept filling the bottom of the intake ports until the flow just started to drop off so we didn't reduce the cfm flow of the port, but what we did is increase the velocity (speed) in which the air/fuel went into the engine, which = more hp. The major bottle neck in just about any cylinder head is usually the exhaust ports.

My head will be ported/polished/COMPLETELY BUILT.... By a Machine Shop that builds these motors for the local track racers. Mini stock i believe.

Have you ever looked at an Esslinger head? Round Ports on the intake AND head (which this will be built LIKE an Esslinger head, smaller combustion chambers, bigger valves, beefed up cam, however THEY (The Shop) recommends doing evrerything else... :icon_cheers:
 
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Leaner is meaner is a gross exageration. Plus carb size isn't directly linked to lean or rich. You can put a 1100cfm 4bbl carb on it, and still jet it so it runs lean. You do want it as close to 14.7:1 air fuel ratio for efficiency, but 12:1 is the most powerful afr. So leaner is not meaner. Lean causes excessive heat, which will burn up any motor. If you have access to a smaller carb that is tuneable I would use it. But for less than $300 you can buy a new Holley 350, and rebuild kits,jets, and other parts are a lot cheaper for it.
 
And no its not matched to the head because of the gasket, have you ever held an intake gasket to the head you have? Its in no waythe same size as the head ports. I milled my efi intake mounting surface to ensure it was flat and I use a thin film of clear silicone as a gasket. I am also using an efi intake with a carb on it on my ranger. I may seem critical of everything you're doing, but its only because I don't want you to do something that is going to dissapoint you later.
 
Leaner is meaner is a gross exageration. Plus carb size isn't directly linked to lean or rich. You can put a 1100cfm 4bbl carb on it, and still jet it so it runs lean. You do want it as close to 14.7:1 air fuel ratio for efficiency, but 12:1 is the most powerful afr. So leaner is not meaner. Lean causes excessive heat, which will burn up any motor. If you have access to a smaller carb that is tuneable I would use it. But for less than $300 you can buy a new Holley 350, and rebuild kits,jets, and other parts are a lot cheaper for it.

Gotcha... Thanks for the input on the carb, I didn't know if their was a smaller one that I could just tune.

And no its not matched to the head because of the gasket, have you ever held an intake gasket to the head you have? Its in no waythe same size as the head ports. I milled my efi intake mounting surface to ensure it was flat and I use a thin film of clear silicone as a gasket. I am also using an efi intake with a carb on it on my ranger. I may seem critical of everything you're doing, but its only because I don't want you to do something that is going to dissapoint you later.

I'm not even sure how LONG this manifold will be in existence! Like I said, I'll be grabbing the Esslinger 4bbl Intake Mani sooner or later... Hopefully sooner than later!

But you can't argue that that EXPENSIVE, EXTREMELY NICE, Esslinger Head doesn't have round ports (to have a better shot at the valves) and so does that manifold. Why not TRY to copy what's proven? That's all I'm doing... In a sense.
 
That head us meant for a high hp turbo, or high rpm high hp na motors. You know the kind that make 9000 rpm look easy. With high rpm, you can use a larger port, this is due to the increased engine speed. That allows the port velocity to stay high. When you aren't running that high of engine speeds the port velocity suffers greatly. One of the downfalls to reduced port velocity is the fuel doesn't stay suspended in the air well. It will cause puddling and fuel sitting on the port walls. Plus on this particular intake you can't very well port the whole port, which means your port velocity stays high in the runners until they get to where you have hogged it out and its going to slow down. Then when it goes into the head that fuel that falls out of suspension will pool badly and your low rpm and mid ranger are going to suffer a lot. It might clean that fuel out when you get up high in the band, but its going to run rich, very rich while it cleans it out and will suffer. Not to mention the turbulance causing airflow issues in the head side of the port.

There may be smaller carbs that are tunable, but the carb adaptor offered by most companies for the efi intake are a direct bolt on for the Holley 350.
 
That head us meant for a high hp turbo, or high rpm high hp na motors. You know the kind that make 9000 rpm look easy. With high rpm, you can use a larger port, this is due to the increased engine speed. That allows the port velocity to stay high. When you aren't running that high of engine speeds the port velocity suffers greatly. One of the downfalls to reduced port velocity is the fuel doesn't stay suspended in the air well. It will cause puddling and fuel sitting on the port walls. Plus on this particular intake you can't very well port the whole port, which means your port velocity stays high in the runners until they get to where you have hogged it out and its going to slow down. Then when it goes into the head that fuel that falls out of suspension will pool badly and your low rpm and mid ranger are going to suffer a lot. It might clean that fuel out when you get up high in the band, but its going to run rich, very rich while it cleans it out and will suffer. Not to mention the turbulance causing airflow issues in the head side of the port.

There may be smaller carbs that are tunable, but the carb adaptor offered by most companies for the efi intake are a direct bolt on for the Holley 350.


Good advice right there, the Holley 350 2bbl will work really well for what you want to do, and will be easier to tune. While the 2bbl doesn't have the look, and appeal of a 4bbl, the look, and appeal doesn't make it the better choice. I don't know how long Mikel has been messing with the 2.3's, but I've been messing with them since my sister bought a used 1974 Mustang with a 2.3 back in 1978.
 
Well I am only 24, but 2.3 mustangs is what I used to race on dirt since I was 15. I have a 2.3 mustang and ranger. 2.3's are what I learned on. And I have dreamed of building many different configurations of them. I also went to the University of Northwestern Ohio for their high performance program. I'm not near as experienced as you but I live for 2.3's
 

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