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Part name/number please


bootleg

Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2007
Messages
19
Age
56
City
Verbena, AL
Vehicle Year
1983
Transmission
Automatic
Hello all,

I've got an 83 Ranger 2.8 V6 and need a part number or name of the narrow pipe connecting the exhaust manifolds--engine top, behind the distributor and valve covers...i suppose i could try to repair it, but would rather buy new if possible.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Try LMC Truck Parts...They have alot of new Ranger Parts...Thats where I bought my Gas Tank and Hoses.......


Roger:icon_thumby:
 
Hello all,

I've got an 83 Ranger 2.8 V6 and need a part number or name of the narrow pipe connecting the exhaust manifolds--engine top, behind the distributor and valve covers...i suppose i could try to repair it, but would rather buy new if possible.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Sounds like maybe a EGR tube but a pic would help greatly.
 
I think hes talking about the crossover pipe that attaches to the backs of the exhaust maifolds that leads to the air pump and then the CAT.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I appreciate it.

Haven't had the opp to look at the photos or links...i'm going to try to post one later today, but from the responses i can say it's not EGR and def probably the crossover: bolts into the top of each manifold and runs behind the dist.

My camera sux, but i'll try to get a photo out there.

I appreciate the help!

Thanks,
Chris
 
Danger,

took a look at your photos from the 1st link posted...#3, it's the crossover; left side bolts in to the right of the O2 sensor, and the rag in the photo is draped over it. i'll inspect the thing closer and see if there's a pn stamped somewhere.

thanks for the help!!
 
The thing that you want to be careful of is busting the bolts that hold it on that go into the manifold. I dont recal seeing a part number on mine. I dont use mine because my state doesnt require emissions testing, plus it is exempt from it to due to its age.
 
If the tube is bad, a replacement would be best. If just the anti-backfire valve is bad, you can replace just that with a generic one. You can add one to the front of the bad one, or cut off the bad one and replace it with a new one. They cost about $15.00 and they do rust out before the tube.
 
this is how i fix these, yours may be severely un repairable like you said though.

i cut the bad part out and replace it with high temp rubber hose and hose clamps. works great
 
Thanks for all the replies...and yes, i did bust one of the bolts (oops) so i'm gonna have to get that extracted or buy new manifolds--incidentaly, i had considered a 4.0 swap, but have decided to stay original to the 83...the tube itself is rusted through in a couple spots, but not too bad (hence considering repairing)...the problem i am facing with repairs is there are two holes in it and i honestly can't tell if they are punctures (too clean to be rusted) or are there by design--if they are, then what will i achieve by patching them. and, how long will the repair last really?

i'm gonna follow the links y'all posted and see what i can find. again, really appreciate the feedback/input.

next on the agenda is finding a knock sensor! but then, i'd been running without one for some time now...
 
Well ironicly my dad broke a bolt doing this and it was on the drivers side manifold. What we did was found a bolt hole in the head, and used an over sized washer that was large enough that when the bolt was screwed into the head that the washer would push on the tube. To this day it hasnt leaked and works great.


These trucks had knock sensors, not that it matters to me?
 
yeah, it's got a knock sensor--driver's side bottom...found a replacement at advanceauto and jcw online but every time i went to order, they told me it was unavailable. not that it really needs the sensor, in my opinion, but just to be safe...i suppose.

i'm a weekend warrior with my 83, and haven't had the time to disconnect the exhaust pipes from the manifolds, but maybe tomorrow. heads are already loosened, so i'm confident they'll come off easy, then we will see how "bad" it's gonna be!! don't have to right tools at home, so i'll have to bring to a shop for the "surgery."

oh, another question: you wouldn't happen to know where i can get oem vacuum lines (orange, green, blue, red, etc...)? I find the rubber replacements can harden quickly.
 
Thats the oil level sensor on the drivers side bottom.

As for replacement vaccum lines the rubber ones are the only ones that I can recommend, I've never had a problem with them. The factory vaccum lines also get brittle over time, they are made out of plastic.
 
gotcha on the oil level sensor, but there's a knock sensor as well...closer toward the bell housing and bolts straight into the block...at least on mine, anyway.

yes, the rubber ones work well, but like i said...just trying to stay as close to original as possible...found some on a junk bronco once, couple years ago...should have pulled them then.
 

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