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Painting dash and surrinding parts


JamesD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
48
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Manual
After 30 years my ranger's dash is pretty burnt up. The rest of the interior is also faded. I would like to revive it in the future. I have the basics down when it comes to paint as I'm almost done with the body paint. I believe interior painting is much the same with exception of aggressive sanding to get a final smooth finish. Anyone with experience would be helpful.
 
My 1988 had a crack and was faded so I went to the junkyard and just found another one that was in better shape. You can actually buy replacements for the Gen I dash at LMC...and new carpets...and new door trim...or make your own custom door panels.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/FR/full.aspx?Page=51

They are not inexpensive, but they will give you the best overall look and feel if there are cracks.

I painted the metal part of my dash an just used rattle cans...came out really nice.

There are others on here who have done interior finishes and posted pics...but I'm sure someone can guide you on the best paints to use. I am interested in painting my 96 dash (in the 88 cab) because the previous owner painted it and it is chipping very badly...looks like carp but I know it can be touched up.

I read a few of the posts on here and the most important factor has been the prep work...cleaning the surface and letting it dry completely before painting...and practicing on other things to get the rattle can to give the right amount of spray...like exterior painting...just takes a bit of practice and plenty of prep.
 
I painted the metal part of my dash an just used rattle cans...came out really nice.

Did you paint it in the truck or pull it out?

I have gone back and forth how to do it, compounded by the fact some ninny drilled a hole in the dash support in the past.

The LMC dash covers are plastic covers that go over the dash pad. The look better than a beat up dash but make it look thicker. Mine was very light, I painted it.
 
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I'd take it out on a Gen1. I can have the whole dash out in about 20 minutes.
 
Did you paint it in the truck or pull it out?

I have gone back and forth how to do it, compounded by the fact some ninny drilled a hole in the dash support in the past.

The LMC dash covers are plastic covers that go over the dash pad. The look better than a beat up dash but make it look thicker. Mine was very light, I painted it.

I'd take it out on a Gen1. I can have the whole dash out in about 20 minutes.

yes, I took mine out too and it was really easy to both paint and remove. Only problem I recall was the light switch pull knob was hard to remove...there was a small allen key socket on mine...I think...or a small metal clip that needs to be squeezed.

I still actually have the light switch...lol...it came out with my wiring and didn't bother to separate it...
 
I have never had to pull the dash.

That stupid headlight knob and I have gone round and round before. I don't know how many "good" clips I have pulled at the junkyard that just barely hold the headlight nob on until I look at it wrong and it falls off. :annoyed:
 
I recommend using SEM products. They work well for the interior, and the result will last for several years (but with proper prep).
 
I have never had to pull the dash.

That stupid headlight knob and I have gone round and round before. I don't know how many "good" clips I have pulled at the junkyard that just barely hold the headlight nob on until I look at it wrong and it falls off. :annoyed:

Pulling the dash top off is really easy...just remove the trim strips along the bottom and you'll find all the screws. The top back has four right near the windshield but you can get at them with a ratchet driver and a long bit. You can buy a 6" metal bit for $10 or less and it will save you the aggravation of mashing or skinning your knuckles in the tight space...

Take a look at the firewall and area around the left and right sides of the windshield for rust...I found a few spots I didn't realize were starting to get bad...hit them with sandpaper, rust converter and rust paint before I covered it back up...very upsetting since it is all due to not sealing the windshield properly...urrrgh...

Just get a magnetized one because you don't want to drop the screws into the defrost vent...:annoyed:

Not sure if I still have the light switch knob...haven't been out to check on my junk pile since the snow dropped.
 
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Actually the little clip on the headlamp switch knob needs to be pressed towards the knob , this releases it so the know just slides off.

I use the side of a thin screwdriver blade placed in the notch in the knob.. it's a ot easier to do than it is to explain...
 
If you are pulling the dash to paint why just remove the knob? It's much easier to remove the shaft with the knob still attached. If you reach under the dash their is a little button on the bottom of the headlight switch, push that and the whole knob assembly will slide right out. You should have your battery disconnected anyway, so no worry about draining it.

Painting the dash is something I need to tackle before too long. Wanting to do a color change from blue to black. I'll probably take the dash pad to a local upholstery shop and have it professionally recovered. Worried about how the rest will turn out, as I've never been great with a rattle can. May end up using stretch vinyl to cover the plastic panels instead of painting them.
 
Actually the little clip on the headlamp switch knob needs to be pressed towards the knob , this releases it so the know just slides off.

I use the side of a thin screwdriver blade placed in the notch in the knob.. it's a ot easier to do than it is to explain...

Ah, yes, now I remember...

If you are pulling the dash to paint why just remove the knob? It's much easier to remove the shaft with the knob still attached. If you reach under the dash their is a little button on the bottom of the headlight switch, push that and the whole knob assembly will slide right out. You should have your battery disconnected anyway, so no worry about draining it.

Painting the dash is something I need to tackle before too long. Wanting to do a color change from blue to black. I'll probably take the dash pad to a local upholstery shop and have it professionally recovered. Worried about how the rest will turn out, as I've never been great with a rattle can. May end up using stretch vinyl to cover the plastic panels instead of painting them.

Are you talking first gen or later?

I haven't done my 88 for a few years but I'm pretty sure it would only come out the back way...and even that was not very easy because of all the wires and the contortionist act I had to go through to even get near it...:annoyed:
 
the trick to getting a good rattle can finish is to do lots of little,thin coats. not thicker ones. takes longer but yields a much better finish. and of course prep work. i always go over my stuff with newspaper and alcohol to get rid of all the oily residue that can be left. fair warning, the ink will come off at first with alcohol. so i dab at it with a paper towel to get rid of the ink. then i use the newspaper.
 

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