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Paging Dr. House (3, 2, or 1 problem?)


manassasralph

Member
Joined
May 24, 2009
Messages
9
City
Manassas, VA
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
OK, the patient was a former NAPA delivery 94 Ford Ranger reg cab. Now it's my project truck.

1) When I got the truck the AMP gauge pegged to high (18V) and the battery light was on. Took the alternator to an alternator repair shop, nothing wrong, but I noticed single lead (not multi plug) not connected. When I reinstalled the alternator, connected the single connector, viola! no battery light, but AMP gauge still pegged.

2) I noticed that sometimes one or the other turn signal doesn't work, sometimes both. However, the emergency flashers work all the time! Today (after one week of sitting, but on the battery charger) neither turn signals work, but flashers do work.

3) The truck came with manual doors. I installed power windows and locks. Everything worked fine for several weeks, then the drivers side door lock stops working. I check, no voltage at the lock actuator, the passenger side works fine.

Now, Dr House and team, do I have 3, 2, or 1 problem? Which problem do I track down first?

All diagnosis will be carefully considered (please don't kill the patient).

ManassasRalph
 
Check the turn signal relay for number 2. The truck uses two different relays, one for turn, one for four way flashers.

The amp gauge needs to be corroborated. Check the amps with a volt meter in series at the battery. Be careful.

Check all the junctions from the door in question back to the power source, and through the controls. Most likely a bad wire or bad connection.
 
You don't need to a amp gauge to check the volt meter in the dash just check the the voltage across the battery with the motor running.If it dosn't have power trace it back until it does, what really helps is to get a wiring diagram from a clymers. The flasher for the turn signals is the top one thats hard to get to.
 
I don't know exactly if the 94 has an ammeter or voltmeter for the battery shindig gauge, so I would check both the voltage of the battery (while vehicle is running of course) and check the amperage (via ammeter in series with the negative cable, vehicle off or you could/will blow the fuse in your meter)
 

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