P0320 8 plug motor

[mosher41]

Guys,
I have 96 4 cyl 2.3 8 plug motor. Skipping and sputtering. Getting P0320 code. Something about a ignition / distributor malfunction. Any ideas

 

[sbro98]

hey mosher41,

I have similar prob with my 99 4-cyl ranger. Autozone told me code 0320 indicated a bad crankshaft positioning sensor. Replaced sensor, and fuel filter, but it stills backfires and stalls. I'm waiting for response to my post in General Discussion. Pls post solution if you find what's wrong with your chariot. steve

 

[modelageek]

Camshaft positioning sensor?

 

[Bryan22]

Camshaft positioning sensor?

thinking the same thing. on the newer(95+) 4 bangers you've got the computer, the cam sensor, crank sensor, or coils.

-edit- P0320 Ignition Engine Speed (PIP) Input circuit fault- after finding this i'd say it is deffenitely the crank or cam sensor malfunctioning, or some wiring problems somewhere between. PIP is usually the crank sensor, so autozone didn't lie to you, but it's not always the sensor that is at fault, start haveing a look at the wiring. also i'd check that you're timing belt didn't skip a tooth. -edit-

 

[bobdog301]

i have same problem just replaced 95-2.3 w/97 -2.3 some are telling me same thing with timing, also iac needs cleaning?

 

[smokey2yunick]

Long time viewer, first time poster.

I know this is an old post, but hopefully I can help someone in the future. My OBDII 1998 Ford Ranger V6 with the 3.0 also had the same P0320 code as above (Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction) after recent my engine rebuild (168k miles)

After searching online I found that the blue wire from the crank position sensor is notorious in Rangers for having chaffing inside the wiring harness, and causing this CEL code. I removed the harness, unwrapped the electrical tape and aluminum shielding, but there was no chaffing the wire looked great. I remove the distributor sensor connector cleaned the plug with a Q-tip an applied Dielectric grease. I also did the same for the crank position sensor.

After starring at the harness for several minutes, I realized that I had accidentally moved the harness behind the alternator (not original routing). The electrical field generated by the alternator must have been sending a false signal via the harness. I moved the harness to its original spot between the side of the alternator and water pump (down to the sensor).

After 100+ miles and several days, the code hasn't come back. Hope this saves someone else a headache