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Overheating


keithsranger

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
23
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Automatic
99 3.0 v6 AT 4wd Ford ranger. Lately my truck has been tryin to overheat. And it does occasionally. I have replaced radiator, water pump, thermostat, higher psi cap. Resavoir stays backed up, and spills out and leaks almost every time I drive it. I reckon it is getting to much pressure. Need help fast. Also no milky substance in my oil nor the obvious smoke coloration coming from my exhaust that is consistent with a blown head gasket. Any ideas or advice is much appreciated, thanks.
 
Check the thermostat housing for leaks
 
Or too much coolant in radiator
 
There are no leaks in the stat. And we've checked the coolant levels several times still no sign that they are low or high
 
needs heads or head gaskets...

heads are probably cracked around exhaust ports... it is very common in the 3.0.. and it will just keep getting worse...

just did heads on a 3.0 and all 6 cyls had cracks so this is where my money is for your problem.....:bawling:
 
99 3.0 v6 AT 4wd Ford ranger. Lately my truck has been tryin to overheat. And it does occasionally. I have replaced radiator, water pump, thermostat, higher psi cap. Resavoir stays backed up, and spills out and leaks almost every time I drive it. I reckon it is getting to much pressure. Need help fast. Also no milky substance in my oil nor the obvious smoke coloration coming from my exhaust that is consistent with a blown head gasket. Any ideas or advice is much appreciated, thanks.

Coolant in the oil and white exhaust smoke is when head gasket or cracked head has gotten worse, it starts off as burping coolant into overflow tank.

A cooling system only has pressure after it gets hot, not warm but hot.

A full or overflowing reservoir means something is displacing the coolant in the engine, that is usually air being pumped in from a cylinder, so head gasket or cracked head issue.

On a Cold engine remove rad cap, top up rad if it is low, start engine, if coolant starts to come out of cap opening you have a cylinder pumping pressure into the system, head gasket, cracked head issue.
A water "pump" does really pump coolant it circulates it, so it doesn't produce any pressure in the system.

You can also do a "glove test" if you want to be absolutely sure, and find out which cylinder has the leak.
Cold engine
Rad cap off
Remove overflow hose and block its opening
Place latex glove over rad cap opening and seal it with a rubber band, or use a balloon
Disconnect connector on the coil, you want a no start

Crank engine over
If you have a cylinder leak the glove will start moving, bouncing, as that cylinder is on it's compression stroke.

To find out which cylinder is leaking, remove 1 spark plug at a time and crank engine, when glove stops moving the last spark plug removed was the leaking cylinder, put plug back in to confirm.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the info y'all. Still in the midst of workin on it. Just pulled te spark plugs. Just bout all need to be replaced. Think im gonna do a compression test tommorow to see what that will tell me. did have a cracked piston in the motor last year. Wonder if It is a gasket leak would it be on the same side of the motor where we had replaced te piston
 
And yes don't wanna have to pay the money for a head gasket job. Expemsive. Hopin to find the problem for sure tho soon.
 
And yes don't wanna have to pay the money for a head gasket job. Expemsive. Hopin to find the problem for sure tho soon.


3.0 i just did was in a Taurus it cost me $600 when it was all done:bawling:

i did have to replace bypass tee on intake the nipple rusted out and it just happens to be pressed into intake. so i used a big hammer and got it out then tapped hole with 3/8" pipe thread and made a new tee using pipe fittings from the hardware store and for good measure put it all together with red loctite i think it will outlast the car... i also think that the t was the cause of the heads being cracked. it rusted out and leaked and wife kept driving it when it got hot....
 
That's a lot of money to me! And Somethin was mentioned to me about bypassing the heater core. Idkk really where to begin anymore
 
That's a lot of money to me! And Somethin was mentioned to me about bypassing the heater core. Idkk really where to begin anymore


what good would it be to bypass heater core (except to eliminate a leak)

begin with the basics

1 pull plugs 1 at a time and look for a green coloring on insulator (would indicate burning coolant)

2 check for coolant leaks

3 look for an excessive amount of water in exhaust or white billowing smoke from the tailpipe (smoke will also have a sweet smell if coolant is being burned)

4 look for oil in coolant and coolant in the oil by looking for a white milky substance on oil cap and radiator cap

5 do glove test

6 bring engine to operating temp and see if you have no heat 1 (make sure coolant is full for test) 2 (if no heat could indicate head or head gasket or open t stat)

7 pull t stat and check to see if it opens in boiling water (if it stays closed its bad and could have caused head gasket failure)

none of this is a full guarantee that you will find the problem just possibly the cause.. unfortunately the only way to tell if its the head or gasket or both is to tear it apart after you have determined that at least one of them is bad, so you prepare for the worst and hope for the best....


hope this helps
 

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