Over heating ???

[cbxer55]

All this talk about NE, NW, SE, SW is irrelevant anyways. There is only one question you need answer. When the engine is running, and you hold your hand anywhere behind the fan, do you feel a lot of air movement toward the firewall? If yes, then all is good. If no, then you got problems.

There is a way to check the temp gauge you have using a known temperature. Remove the sending unit from its location, but keep it hooked up to the gauge and power. You will have to run a ground wire from the sending unit back to the vehicle, some kind of jumper wire will work. Bring a pot of water to boiling, hence 212 degrees. Drop the sending unit in that and see what your gauge reads. If the gauge reads way north of 212, you will know you got a junk gauge, that is entirely possible. I had a oil temp. gauge on a motorcycle that always read what I thought was too hot. When I did the above-mentioned test, it showed 240 degrees in boiling water. So it was reading 28 degrees high.

The 230 to 240 degrees you are showing would be pretty good for oil temps., but not for your coolong system. Theoretically the temp. should not be much higher than whatever thermostat you are using.

 

[1v6pony]

Yes I am getting plenty of air from the fan, I will try your idea on the sending unity and see what happens.
Thanks.

I am also going to try to take it to a radiator shop and see what they say.... The ford radiator is 357 cu in or core. The radiator that I have in it is only 255 cu in, I might not have enough radiator for the motor?

 

[cbxer55]

The 3.0 is only approximately 182 C.I.
So your radiator for a 255 is plently big enough.

 

[creepinjeepster]

The 3.0 turns clockwise as you are looking at the front of the motor. Easy way to confirm engine rotation is to stand outside the vehicle and bump the key with hood up and look to see which way the fan begins to turn when you bump it.

As I just did the timing on my 3.0 though, I know it turns clockwise. From the front, looking down at the blades the fan should go in this direction.....\ NW to SE

 

[1v6pony]

OPPS you miss understood, the radiator core is 357 sq in of space, the one I have is only 255 sq in,,, Not a 255 cubic inch motor....LOL sorry I should have said that better.....

Thanks I thought it turned clockwise.

My Jeep (daily driver, trans just blew) So for now I will just have to drive the 3.0 the way that it is... As soon as I can I am going to test the sender....That would be an easy fix...LOL...

On the Coolant tank, Will it work If I just make sure the tank has fluid and the the hose is submerged???? .... I tried it this way, only got very little fluid to flow into tank, and none sucked backed up, Tried it with 2 diff rad caps... Maybe it is not as hot as the guage is saying that would explaine why no fluid is tranfering into the tank, Right???
On a side note, I took a thermal reading of the hose when it said it was 230deg and the surface reading was only 168deg, Of course the hose would insulate much of the heat....Anyway Thanks for countinued help on this guys...

 

[cbxer55]

The hose will not insulate as much as you think it will. The longer the temperature is maintained, the more likely the hose will reflect that temperature. Why do you think some electric fan kits use a thermostat control that clamps to the upper radiator hose.

I really think your gauge is wildly inaccurate. Perform the test I told you about earlier and post the results.

Also, if your wife (you married?) has one of those meat thermometers in the kitchen, you can use that to test temperature anywhere you desire. Hold it next to the thermostat housing, stick it into the radiator fins, hold it to any hose you desire. Eventually you will come to some consensus that your gauge is f--ked up.

Does your stock gauge still work? If so, where abouts is the needle pointing? IMHO, anymore than about 1/4" above the C would be kind of hot. That is where mine read with the stock 195 thermostat. With a 180 it runs around 1/8" to 3/16" above the C, summer or winter.

 

[1v6pony]

Ok so I bought one of those meat sensors and the temp is no where near what the tep guage says....

Here is another question related, what type of fan clutch does the ranger have, is it a thermal or does it since RPM's... If it is thermal, then it runs off another temp sensor???

also I put a puke tank in and water inters but it does not suck back in....

 

[Big Jim M]

Ok so I bought one of those meat sensors and the temp is no where near what the tep guage says....

Here is another question related, what type of fan clutch does the ranger have, is it a thermal or does it since RPM's... If it is thermal, then it runs off another temp sensor???

also I put a puke tank in and water inters but it does not suck back in....

Thermal.. And it has it's own sensor in itself..

If the puke tank doesn't drain back into the radiator the problem is usually a small air leak.. could be the hose or the cap itself. The hose must be under the coolant level inside the storage tank for it to work.
Big JIm

 

[1v6pony]

So the thermal fan clutch, could have a lot to do with it overheating ,as this is a tube buggy front end and has no way of retaining heat with engine body panels ... Does that sound like it could be the trouble

 

[McCormack]

If the fan is reasonably close to the radiator and you're using a shroud, then body panels shouldn't be much of an issue.
Ranger fans are generally very noisy when they're locked up, so if you aren't hearing much noise from your fan when the engine is on the verge of overheating then the fan probably isn't locked up.

Another possibility to consider is that the vanes in your water pump might be worn, which would would prevent the pump from providing your engine with all the coolant that it needs to cool properly.

 

[1v6pony]

Does anyone make a better flowing water pump for the 3.0???
I will have so see how far the fan is from the rad,
also the shroud I am using is not the stock one so it is probably maybe 75% efficent

 

[McCormack]

There are Ranger owners with supercharged engines that are using their stock 3.0 water pump without any overheating problems, so I doubt that you would need a higher flowing pump for your application.

Heat from the radiator core is what causes the fan to heat up and progressively lock it's clutch up, so if your fan is too far away from the radiator and/or is not shrouded then it won't get hot as the radiator heats up and won't lock up.

 

[1v6pony]

Any adverse effects if I remove the clutch and just run it straight off the pump with an adapter , one like flex a lite?

 

[McCormack]

That's how they used to do it in the old days, so running a clutchless fan should work just fine.

 

[1v6pony]

Well it has been a while, but still having issues.... I have a new thought

correct me if I am wrong but looking at the front of the a ranger the crank turns clock wise? That would mean that the water pump also turns clock wise.

I looked at the old pump that came off the motor and it appears to turn counter clock wise??? in other words in order for fins to grab water at it turns it muct turn CCW...

Could I have a van motor instead of a Ranger??? (it was a Junk Yard Motor)

Thanks for the Help