OPINIONS ON HOW TO GET THE FRONT LEVEL. also will the front and rear hold up to a small v8 with a mild cam.

[Bear in the woods]

I highly, HIGHLY, doubt that rear has a 4" lift. Post up some pictures of the rear suspension and these guys can tell you a lot.

From the way that the truck sits in those pictures, I think you have stock suspension front and rear, but the front has sagged a bit more than the rear. To my knowledge all 4x4 Rangers came from the factory with around a 2" lift block on the rear axle. Like most trucks of the time they were built with the back end higher to level out when loaded.

I think a 2" leveling kit would put you close with a slight rake. A 2" leveling kit plus new coil springs would probably actually hit level once they settle.

. THOSE ARE 29 INCH TIRES

 

[Bear in the woods]

Sounds like I should lower the rear slightly and slightly raise the front. Low center gravity

 

[JoshT]

. THOSE ARE 29 INCH TIRES

. I was looking at the tires and overall shots of the truck, but guess I didn't pay enough attention to the other pictures. Do you have one that shows the rear shackles or did I miss that too?

Those are definitely stock rear blocks which are usually about 2 inches.

Those are 29s on the truck. The larger tires in the other picture are 31s. You say you'd like to be able to run 32s.

31-29= 2 /2 (for radius) =1" if lift needed to maintain same clearance.

32-29 = 3 /2 =1.5" lift needed

Not belittling you but I've seen a lot of people forget about the radius part of the equation.

Those numbers assume that wheel arches won't be too small, I can't remember on the first gens but I know it isn't an issue on 93+

I think you could possibly clear the 31s with a fresh set of springs in front. 32s.possibly with the same springs and a leveling kit. 33s with a leveling kit and new springs. Might not be able to flex much but I think you could run them. You could definitely do 30s, 31s, and 32s respectively.

If you want larger tires you don't want to lower the rear. But if you plan to stick with the 29s, itight be more astethically pleasing for you. If you do that it will squat lower in the rear with a load.

Lift front will not help with COG in any way, but installing new springs may help reduce body roll.

Please don't lower the rear AND lift the front. That just looks BAD, and not bad in a good way.

 

[Bear in the woods]

. I was looking at the tires and overall shots of the truck, but guess I didn't pay enough attention to the other pictures. Do you have one that shows the rear shackles or did I miss that too?

Those are definitely stock rear blocks which are usually about 2 inches.

Those are 29s on the truck. The larger tires in the other picture are 31s. You say you'd like to be able to run 32s.

31-29= 2 /2 (for radius) =1" if lift needed to maintain same clearance.

32-29 = 3 /2 =1.5" lift needed

Not belittling you but I've seen a lot of people forget about the radius part of the equation.

Those numbers assume that wheel arches won't be too small, I can't remember on the first gens but I know it isn't an issue on 93+

I think you could possibly clear the 31s with a fresh set of springs in front. 32s.possibly with the same springs and a leveling kit. 33s with a leveling kit and new springs. Might not be able to flex much but I think you could run them. You could definitely do 30s, 31s, and 32s respectively.

If you want larger tires you don't want to lower the rear. But if you plan to stick with the 29s, itight be more astethically pleasing for you. If you do that it will squat lower in the rear with a load.

Lift front will not help with COG in any way, but installing new springs may help reduce body roll.

Please don't lower the rear AND lift the front. That just looks BAD, and not bad in a good way.

Meant drop rear. And raise front. To correct leveling. Maybe these will help

 

[JoshT]

My issue is the word "and" in there. I think it should be an "or" but it isn't my truck. Either drop (lower) the rear to level, or raise the front to level. Again that's my opinion and pictures can look different than in person.

Yeah I'm not sure what to think about those rear blocks. You can see the "horn" on them which tells me that they are OEM blocks, but I coul dhave sworn factory blocks were only like 2 - 2.5 inches. Those look more like 3 to 4 inchers with your hand there. Maybe someone swapped in blocks from something else, or maybe they were just larger than I thought back then.

I was wondering if it had lift shackles installed which would explain the 4 inch lift you described earlier when conbined with what I thought should have been around 2" blocks. Looks like they are stock shackles though just a taller block than expected.

Based on the pictures you've provided, this is what I'd do if it were mine. If I wanted to stick with the current tire size and level, I'd leave the front alone and find a shorter (maybe about half that height) block for the rear. If I wanted to run the larger tires from the original post I'd get a 2" leveling kit to install on the front.