Oops, I spoke too soon....

[vanmor]

I got my home rebuilt M5R1 back in Saturday. It grinds just a touch in 4th and will not stay in OD at all. It goes into OD but will pop out when you release the clutch. If you try and hold it in, it grinds. I must have put the OD gear in backwards.

 

[baddis]

that happened with mine. at least you can fix it without pulling the tranny back out

 

[vanmor]

Oh, so I did get the OD gear in backwards ?

 

[baddis]

thats what mine was

 

[vanmor]

Hmmmmmm.........

Fifth is not on the main shaft is it in the tail housing is it ? I think it's on one of the other shafts.

 

[AllanD]

Either you disassembled the adjustable pivot for the 5/Reverse shifter bellcrank
and didn't adjust it....

OR you installed the 5th reverse synchro collar backwards.

Either way you can correct the problem without removing the trans from the truck.

you will need to remove the driveshaft, transfer case (if a 4x4) and remove the tailshaft housing

Not a fun job, but...

AD

 

[vanmor]

My stepdad swears we put fifth in correctly.

When you say bellcrank, are you talking about the shaft with the ball and spring inside. It has three "slots" that works the shifting fork on fifth.

I took EVERYTHING apart !

 

[AllanD]

No, I'm refering to the pivot shaft for the toggle ("bellcrank") that works the 5th-reverse shift fork on it's little shaft.

Don't EVER mess with the big torx nut!

There are things you shouldn't take apart because it's unnecissary and because it is impossible to reassemble them in "Reverse order" to the way you took them apart.

And if you are doing it for the first time there are serious pitfalls .... that you invariably discover the hard way.

the fork and shaft for 5th and reverse is one thing, the top cover as an assembly should be left alone unless you are a goddamned michaelangelo with a roll pin punch

And other than disassembling it after it is seperated from the trans to inspect the Id of the gear and the bearing rollers you should generally leave the reversi idler and it's shaft alone.

As for the "synchro collars" the 3/4 collar often isn't marked, and it's splined "hub" must be reinstalled by paying attention to the "witness marks" from the previous use (it is NOT symetrical)

"grinding" going into 4th also suggests a reversed synchro collar.

But both the 1-2 collar and the 5-reverse collar are marked with a single dot.

If you imagin the shaft you are pitting it onto as pointing towards you and you are pushing the synchro assembly onto it the dot should be facing you.

HOWEVER the 5-reverse center hub can also be installed backwards!

a general rule about taking things apart is that if you aren't sure if something's orientation matters or not you must be extra careful about maintaing the part's orientation

You can also check engagement of the various parts before you re-install the covers

 

[vanmor]

Your right about taking too many things apart. I'll have to back up here. I didn't take the top plate apart. I left all that stuff alone.

Everything was laid out on a seperate table as the parts were removed. They were cleaned and lubed prior to reassembly, but anybody can make a mistake.

The kit had an incorrect syncro. I had to use one of the old ones. I know thats a no-no but I tried it anyway. It shifts fine into 4th if you wind 3rd out a bit. If I have to fix fifth gear, I'm going to pull the transmission back out anyway and replace the old syncro.

I didn't touch the transmission with a torx drive. Not sure what your talking about there. There is this star looking thing on the side of the transmission but it's not really a nut. It's connected to a plate.

 

[HareRazor]

I have accidentally done this before and it ended up being that I didn't have the dot pointing towards the back of the transmission on the 5th gear collar. I swear I did when it was in my hand but it did not transfer well.

 

[vanmor]

So did you have the same symptoms with OD ?

 

[HareRazor]

Yep. I would think it was in 5th gear and I would let out the clutch and it would pop out.