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One ton questions


crawlin91

Well-Known Member
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Solid Axle Swap
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Oct 31, 2007
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Finally building a real wheeler, but im a little confused with all this wms srw drw hub crap, and countless tech threads ive read through. I want full width but dont want to be a mile wide in the end. Stable but can still hit some of the tight trails.

Im still gathering parts so I would like to use a Ford hp kingpin dana 60 and a GM 14bolt with discs and a little shave.:D I realize it would be easier to get matching width axles from the same truck but thats probably not going to happen and im not big on wheel spacers. Also Im pretty sure putting the discs on the 14 will have some effect on the final width.

1.) What kind of WMS/ final width do you guys have running one tons on your rbvs?

2.) Do you know what 14 bolt (year, model, srw, drw) will closely match the width of a kp dana 60? I could go sterling or rear 60 for the right price.

3.) How much of a difference wider/narrow can you go in either the front or rear of a rig without negative driving and steering characteristics? And is there an advantage to a wider front or rear?

4.) Anyone know what kind of rim backspacing would be good on the H1 beadlocks? They are a 16.5 rim so not sure if it would hit the calipers etc. I found a guy who does quality recenters and can set backspace from 2" to 4.5"

This will be strictly for off road use. running at least 39's, h1 beadlocks, doubler, 5.38s, cage, etc. Right now these are just the beginning of the build and plans and could change depending on what i can find. :icon_cheers:Thanks.
 
front 60 is 69.5 wms to wms. rear is 68" I use 3.5" BS. I would use 4" to 3" BS. You want a wider front than rear.
 
I believe you can go as much as 5.5" on the backspacing with 16.5" rims, but don't hold me to that (I know the full 7" BS on H1 rims won't fit).

Many guys run H2 wheels. These are 17"ers with (IIRC) a 5.5" BS, and would keep the width down some.


Oh
WMS = Wheel Mounting Surface
DRW = Dual Rear Wheel
SRW = Single...


A SRW front D60 is 69.5" WMS-WMS like said. DRW hubs would add something like 10" to that (you obviously want a SRW axle).
 
I believe you can go as much as 5.5" on the backspacing with 16.5" rims, but don't hold me to that (I know the full 7" BS on H1 rims won't fit).

Many guys run H2 wheels. These are 17"ers with (IIRC) a 5.5" BS, and would keep the width down some.


Oh
WMS = Wheel Mounting Surface
DRW = Dual Rear Wheel
SRW = Single...


A SRW front D60 is 69.5" WMS-WMS like said. DRW hubs would add something like 10" to that (you obviously want a SRW axle).


I know what they stand for... just wasn't sure exactly what to look for, SRW it is then. I will look into the h2 wheels, but since I have to buy wheels to fit the new bolt pattern I want to do beadlocks the first time and "save" money. thanks Junkie.

Thanks NMB2 for the measurements. Why a wider front than rear?

Also what do you guys think is the optimal range for a wheelbase in a rock crawler?

Any thoughts on this:
If I did all of this to my B2 Id want to push the front foward as much as possible and maybe push the rear back.?
If I truggy out the extended cab ranger Id do the same with the front and inboard the rear springs and maybe shorten the WB a bit or leave it as is. The bronco II is definately a lil uglier and more prone to go under the knife at this point.
 
Last edited:
Also what do you guys think is the optimal range for a wheelbase in a rock crawler?
.

Depends to some extent on what size tires you're running.

You mentioned 39s, I think somewhere between 100-108" would be best for those tires.

Also, a slightly narrower rear track width can help some with turning and maneuvering. You don't want to go too narrow though, simply for stability.
 
100-108"....ok, in your opinion would bigger tires than 39" shorten or lengthen that number.
 
with a 40-42" tire 104-108" is optimal range for crawlers.
 
Yes, the bigger the tires, the longer your "ideal" wheelbase.
 
im doing a similar project right now (1999 ranger ohv is the build thread) and from the reaserch ive done i decided to go with the sterling 10.25. it has 1.5" 35 spline axles, full floater, use $50 ruff stuff disc brackets with 96 e350 rotors and chevy 3/4 calipers and you have disc brakes, not sure how much more clearence than 14 bolt but its better than than a dana 60 and closer to dana 70 for streangth. and its FORD. as for the front im going with a Dana 60. if you can find one from 1977.5-1979 f-350 it has more room between the diff and knuckle wich makes it easier to adapt to narrower frames. that all depends on your suspension choise. as for wheel base im streaching the front 6-8" and have shortened the rear about 12-14". not sure of the final wheelbase yet but i will be on 40's when im finished.
 
why such big rear axles? why not a 9" or a D60?
 
have a 9" in my bronco and broke it with 35's, granted it is a 28 spline but didnt want to risk it again, my next choise was a 60 but after looking around found that the 10.25 had better clearence than the 60 and was stronger overall. no down side really.of coarse everyone has their opinions on streangth.
 
have a 9" in my bronco and broke it with 35's, granted it is a 28 spline but didnt want to risk it again, my next choise was a 60 but after looking around found that the 10.25 had better clearence than the 60 and was stronger overall. no down side really.of coarse everyone has their opinions on streangth.

ummm. i can tell you my D60 has better clearance than my sterling.
 
From my experience a rear d60 isn't strong enough if you plan on running it hard. I would always explode the on that used to be in my 93 explorer. Finally when I swapped to an Early Bronco I used a 14 bolt and I wish I had used a 10.25 instead. The 10.25 has better ground clearance. I put a 10.25 in the rear of my 79 F250 and pulled out the d60 and I haven't had any broken parts since then.

I have heard of people running a drw style front axle and running th H1 beadlocks as is the dually hubs kinda offset the backspace and get you about where you need to be for much cheaper.
 
Building big because nine inch 35 spline stuff is expensive. I could build a 14 bolt really cheap and shave it to save clearance.
 

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