One Mean C10....

[dieseldane]

Ok yeah that is a steam vent, and it does need to go somewhere.

Check out this link, posts #7 and #9:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=168401

That does need to be fixed, but that isn't what's causing the extra oil in behind the throttle body. Like you said before, the moisture in there causing the oil to turn milky is just moisture being pulled in through the intake. The extra oil is from one of two things: simply just a bad PCV valve, or over-pressurization of the crankcase. The latter you could check to find the cause of by doing a leak down test, to make sure that the pressure isn't leaking past your rings, a blown head gasket, or a cracked head.

 

[Josh40601]

I have a hydrocarbon leak test kit here, but I can't use it until the truck can run. So I have to install the line before I can pressure test it.

Edit:

I also already have the line, just waiting on the adapter that goes in the radiator hose to button everything up.

Any idea where to get torque specs for valve cover and water pump bolts?

 

[dieseldane]

Anything to test your coolant system won't really do you any good, as it's not the problem.



The problem has nothing to do with your cooling system, or anything leaking into it.
EDIT: The pressure I am talking about is coming from within the combustion chamber, and leaking into an oil passage, or past the rings, not the coolant system.

I'll find ya some torque specs tonight.

 

[Robert_1967]

my friend has a 48 chevy truck that has a LS1 in it, those lines off the head need to go back in to the top of the rad, or somewhere near the top.




Robert




Posted from my Dell in the year 3015 and sent back in time.

 

[dieseldane]

my friend has a 48 chevy truck that has a LS1 in it, those lines off the head need to go back in to the top of the rad, or somewhere near the top.




Robert




Posted from my Dell in the year 3015 and sent back in time.

As long as they are vented anywhere into the coolant system higher than their mounting points on the heads, it's fine.

The purpose of those lines is this: since there are no coolant runners going across the intake manifold, the corners of the heads become the highest point of the coolant system within the engine itself. If it were not for those lines, air and steam would become trapped in the heads, which in turn would mean that no coolant could circulate at the very least where the air was, creating hot spots in the heads, and potentially warping them or worse, cracking them. So, it doesn't matter what you plumb that line to, be it the radiator, a heater hose, or your upper radiator hose, as long as it is higher than the head and allows the air to escape.

 

[Josh40601]

It's being ran to the upper radiator hose. I now know it shouldn't be capped.

Thanks to all you guys who are helping! Who knew you could get answers related to a Chevy on a hardcore Ford website?! It's ok. I only own 1 Chevy. And this is it. Best body style and best engine the Bowties ever made.

 

[dieseldane]

Ha no problem! I'm obviously a ford guy as well, but my buddy is HARDCORE chevy, and some of it rubs of on me.


That and seems like the majority of the vehicles I work on seem to be GM or Chrysler products for some reason......

 

[Josh40601]

you happen to get those torque specs?

Oh, and the vehicles i usually work on are my Fords.... I only own Fords because there are more of them in the JY, so most of the parts are easy to come by and cheap.

 

[Josh40601]

Got everything tightened back up and fired the ol girl up.

Here is what happened...

1.) ran a hydrocarbon test and there was no change of color and very very little bubbles. Honestly think the head gaskets/heads are fine.

2.) the temp gauge is acting crazy. It goes straight to max as soon power is "on"

3.) fans are not kicking on at all

4.) the check engine light is on

5.) the truck runs fine now, but scared to take it out due to the cooling

 

[dieseldane]

The temp guage might act kinda funny until all the air bubbles are out of the system. You might already know this, but when you fill it with coolant, turn your heater on the highest temperature so that your heater core gets filled as well.

Did you get the steam vent hooked up ok?

Unless you got some wires switched around accidently....
Do you have anything to pull diagnostic codes with?

As far as the hydrocarbon test.... you could still have bad rings, or a cracked head or blown head gasket, but it might be leaking into an oil passage instead of a coolant passage. When a head gasket goes or a head cracks, that doesn't always mean it's gonna leak into a coolant passage. It's not as likely, but it could happen. That is why when checking for that, you do a compression and leakdown test instead to see if that indicates a problem. That goes for any engine, not just the late generation GMs.

Not trying to sound like a broken record, but the crap in your throttle body never indicated something wrong the cooling system, so it didn't really help to do the hydrocarbon test.

The excess oil is a result of one of these things:
1. Bad PCV Valve
2. Overfilled the Engine Oil
3. Overpressurization of the crankcase caused by:
A. Worn/Broken/Sticky Piston Rings
B. Cracked Cylinder Head
C. Leaking Head Gasket

If your PCV valve is good, and the leakdown test checks out okay, then I wouldn't worry about the gunk, someone might have just overfilled the oil or had a bad PCV valve before you got the engine.

 

[RangerSVT]

Josh, it was a pleasure to finally meet you, next time it'll be out on the trails. Glad we got your gauge fixed in the Chevy as well. Did you remember to finish it up?

SVT

 

[Josh40601]

Was good meeting you too buddy!!

Still not yet. My tape was at home. I'll fix that tomorrow. Still need a throttle cable before I can drive it so I wasn't too worried about it.

Did get the trans out of the diesel. She's toast.

 

[RangerSVT]

Damn...that sucks...

SVT

 

[Josh40601]

Meh. Shit happens. At least I sold it. My uncle took over payments, and since I only owe 8k on it, he got a hell of a deal, even with the blown trans. There were no shavings or anything, but the fluid was cooked. He also said once we get it fixed, we can use it whenever they are not for trips, so it will be ok

 

[Josh40601]

IT LIVES AGAIN!!!

This weekend i finally had some time to dedicate to my pride and joy. I got the valve covers torqued back down, reinstalled everything, and plumbed the pressure relief line for the heads. I also ran a Hydrocarbon test and WAHLAH! It back negative. What this means is no exhaust is entering into the cooling system.

I also climbed my fat ass under the dash and starting checking out why things were not working correctly. Fixed the defrost door, patched up a couple holes in the firewall, and got the vent doors opening and closing properly again.

Now that it is running, and the heads are ok, I can move onto the other issues.

1.) The 3rd universal throttle cable broke on me yesterday. I am looking into finding something better. I may just throw another on now, but it will definitely only be a temp. I shouldn't have to replace a throttle cable this much.

2.) Check Engine Light is on

3.) E-Fans are not kicking on

So this is where I'm at....