One for the ignition gurus...

[Doug Burgoyne]

Hey folks, I'm replacing stock set up in my 1984 2.8 with points distributor from 1974 mustang II along with non feedback 2150 style carb. I had just put fresh factory recommended motorcraft spark plugs for original tfi ignition. Gap is .044. Looking at 74 mustang II specs for dwell, timing, etc., and it shows .034 for plugs (assuming due to less spark energy with points vs tfi). I'm running stock coil with 1.5 ohm ballast resistor in line from "run" wire to coil along with 12v "start" wire. Just ground wire from coil to condenser. I'd like to keep the new plugs, just pull them and regap to the .034 specs. Do you see any problem with this plan? If I have to, I'll replace them (already replacing brand new rotor, cap, and wires I just installed for tfi dist., since none work on points dist.) Thx!

 

[RobbieD]

Hopefully @19Walt93 will see this and weigh in. He's got the experience and I'd go with any advice he has on your best plug range and gap.

 

[19Walt93]

Most everything with points ran .035 plug gaps, I don't think it'll have enough spark to run .044. I had a Chinese made Pertronix distributor in my 351 at first and it was junk but I've had good luck with the Texas made Pertronix drop in electronic ignition. I'd get one of those unless you really enjoy replacing points.

 

[Doug Burgoyne]

Hi 19walt93! Was planning to regap to .035 to match spec for car this distributor came from, thanks for confirming! Was concerned the plug type might be different, was trying to find info on that. The 74 mustang II does call for different motorcraft plug part #...but it shares the #42 in the part number with the stock tfi plugs I bought. From what I gather, they should work provided gap is correct, and the difference in part number had to do with the way the head is tapped. Full thread vs half thread, etc. I won't sweat it. Starting with nos original bosch points and new motorcraft condenser, along with new cap, rotor, wires. Not opposed to pertronix, about $130 is all. BUT I'll only drive this truck maybe 2000-3000 miles a year...so wouldn't be replacing very often. But main reason I was holding on pertronix is I have a 78 duraspark distributor i need to have rebushed... as I'd prefer that set up even over pertronix i think.

 

[19Walt93]

I replaced my Pertronix Billet Flamethrower with a Chinese made Napa distributor becuase the centrifugal advance had an 8 second delay. I would have bought a reman Ford unit but I knew I'd have to install a steel gear to work with the roller cam. The procedure to change the gear requires drilling a new hole through the shaft for the roll pin, if it's been drilled once before, the shaft is junk and I didn't think I'd find one with a virgin shaft.
Motorcraft plug number format has changed, this is the old format: The "42" indicates the heat range, a 14mm plug would begin with "A", 18mm plugs begine with "B". The next letter used to be "R" for resistor plugs but changed to "S" for suppessor years ago. ARF42 and ASF42 are interchangeable. Add a "C" after the 42 and it's a copper core plug, "P" is a platinum core, etc. My GT40 heads require a long reach plug, AGSF42C.

 

[Doug Burgoyne]

Thanks for making sense out of plug numbers! I was finding some info but I think it was confusing due to the changes over the years, etc. Thx again.

 

[Doug Burgoyne]

I replaced my Pertronix Billet Flamethrower with a Chinese made Napa distributor becuase the centrifugal advance had an 8 second delay. GT40 heads require a long reach plug, AGSF42C.

Was that flamethrower for a 2.8 ford engine (I'm guessing probably a later version, different engine)? Never seen a chinese made dist for 2.8 either. You'd think that flamethrower would be able to be re-curved, different weights, etc. My understanding for cologne engines is we have 3 basic options: 1. keep tfi setup (and set initial timing advance way up if running without ecu). 2. remove ecu and smog crap and add points dist from 74 mustang II (this is what I just did, may add pertronix module to replace points). 3. go duraspark if you can find a dizzy (good freakin luck on that one...I have one, but super sloppy bushings and needs to be rebuilt to be useable). Learning so much about electrical and ignition stuff on this project though, which is good.

 

[19Walt93]

Was that flamethrower for a 2.8 ford engine (I'm guessing probably a later version, different engine)? Never seen a chinese made dist for 2.8 either. You'd think that flamethrower would be able to be re-curved, different weights, etc. My understanding for cologne engines is we have 3 basic options: 1. keep tfi setup (and set initial timing advance way up if running without ecu). 2. remove ecu and smog crap and add points dist from 74 mustang II (this is what I just did, may add pertronix module to replace points). 3. go duraspark if you can find a dizzy (good freakin luck on that one...I have one, but super sloppy bushings and needs to be rebuilt to be useable). Learning so much about electrical and ignition stuff on this project though, which is good.

Nope, my truck has a 351. I'd go with the Pertronix drop in unit to replace your points. If you use the TFI distributor with the timing advanced enough to run good at speed it will either not start or kick back something fierce.

 

[jonremmers]

Was that flamethrower for a 2.8 ford engine (I'm guessing probably a later version, different engine)? Never seen a chinese made dist for 2.8 either. You'd think that flamethrower would be able to be re-curved, different weights, etc. My understanding for cologne engines is we have 3 basic options: 1. keep tfi setup (and set initial timing advance way up if running without ecu). 2. remove ecu and smog crap and add points dist from 74 mustang II (this is what I just did, may add pertronix module to replace points). 3. go duraspark if you can find a dizzy (good freakin luck on that one...I have one, but super sloppy bushings and needs to be rebuilt to be useable). Learning so much about electrical and ignition stuff on this project though, which is good.

Trying to do something like this with my truck! just looked up the part and got autozone Part #31-968? Just making sure Im getting the right parts ? what all else will I need? Thank you !

 

[Doug Burgoyne]

Wow, just typed huge reply. Previewed it, hit browser back as wasn't ready to post...and lost it all. Here goes again....
Yes, that is correct part if you have the 2.8 v6 engine. You will also need to get rid of crappy feedback carb (I replaced with $100ish chinese 2100 knock off type, from amazon works great). I removed ecm under dash on passenger side, and all vacuum crap, etc., etc., etc. Basically, took it back to a standard points/carb system from 70's. But I can do that where I live...as I don't have to get smog check, etc. I don't think you will find a cardone rebuilt distributor at any of the normal online parts sites in stock. I looked everywhere and couldn't find one. Could have changed since then. There is one on ebay, linked below, rebuilt but spendy $275. Ouch. I bought used one from junk yard find from another member here for $75...bushings still pretty good so I cleaned it up and bought new points ($18), condenser ($5), cap ($20), and wires. Fired right up! I had already replaced plugs with stock champion coppers with tfi, but had to pull them and gap them down a bit, because points not as hot of system as tfi. You can use stock coil, but will need to wire a ballast in line of your "run 12v wire" that goes to coil. Steps down to 9ish volts while running so you don't burn up points. That was maybe $20 and mounted to firewall where it can get good air flow to keep from overheating. Not sure if you need to do that if running pertronix type ignition module instead of points. You'll need to research that, or someone else here could chime in I'm sure. I just started with points setup, and sticking with that for now. Anyway...my system old school and super simple. All that mess of wires (accept a few like alternator, choke, oil send unit...and maybe another one or two can't remember off the top of my head) and vacuum lines and all those sensors on passenger fender wall all gone! I'm happy to take images of my setup, to help you get basic wiring sorted etc. The guys here saved my life and were so helpful and patient to a non-ignition guy like me. I can hopefully pay it forward, so ask away as needed! I think if you read this whole thread, you'll get a ton of good info on much of this stuff as well. Good luck bro!

1972-74 Ford Mustang II Mercury Capri A/T 2.6 2.8 rebuilt distributor dual vac | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1972-74 Ford Mustang II Mercury Capri A/T 2.6 2.8 rebuilt distributor dual vac at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Doug Burgoyne]

Should also say, if you're stranger to non electronic ignitions, you will need to get basic understanding and initial settings for points dwell and such. Can get super close if real careful with feeler gauge. Dwell meter would be best though. I got it close enough with feeler to start real easy, so I could set engine timing, etc.

 

[Doug Burgoyne]

Here is the carb I got. Only $92 right now. I guess my original from my '84 is the 2150 not 2100.

Amazon.com: 2 Barrel Carburetor Carb 2100 2150 For Ford 289 302 351 Cu Jeep Engine F100 F250 F350 Jeep 360 Cu with Electric Choke - 2 Barrel Carburetor Carb 2100 2150 A800 : Automotive

Buy 2 Barrel Carburetor Carb 2100 2150 For Ford 289 302 351 Cu Jeep Engine F100 F250 F350 Jeep 360 Cu with Electric Choke - 2 Barrel Carburetor Carb 2100 2150 A800: Carburetors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[jonremmers]

Here is the carb I got. Only $92 right now. I guess my original from my '84 is the 2150 not 2100.

Amazon.com: 2 Barrel Carburetor Carb 2100 2150 For Ford 289 302 351 Cu Jeep Engine F100 F250 F350 Jeep 360 Cu with Electric Choke - 2 Barrel Carburetor Carb 2100 2150 A800 : Automotive

Buy 2 Barrel Carburetor Carb 2100 2150 For Ford 289 302 351 Cu Jeep Engine F100 F250 F350 Jeep 360 Cu with Electric Choke - 2 Barrel Carburetor Carb 2100 2150 A800: Carburetors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Awesome thank you so much!! If you have time could you send some pictures ?! Trying to round up all the parts now! That was a great help!!

 

[Doug Burgoyne]

I will do that hopefully later today for you. In the meantime....here is my initial post before I began my carb/dist swap project...covering a lot of things pertaining to removal of the smog crap, figuring out wiring issues, proper set up, etc. May help you learn easily a lot of things I had to struggle with.

Need guidance on removing wires, etc. for duraspark convert? Pictures.

The write ups (which I've read many times) makes it seem so simple. Just rip out 95% of the wires and flip over the fender. Doesn't seem so simple though, when I go to do it. Lot's going on in there, and I don't want to remove something that will cause issues later...trying to go more scalpel...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[CamTheHedgehog]

Most everything with points ran .035 plug gaps, I don't think it'll have enough spark to run .044. I had a Chinese made Pertronix distributor in my 351 at first and it was junk but I've had good luck with the Texas made Pertronix drop in electronic ignition. I'd get one of those unless you really enjoy replacing points.

I second this.


At the summer camp I work at, the maintenance vehicle is an odd golf-cart looking thing….
But it’s got a 3 cylinder daihatsu in it, similar to what’s in those Japanese mini trucks.
It uses a 0.035 gap as well.

It also has a 3 speed manual, with reverse, and a 2 speed auxiliary transmission. That thing will crawl up a wall in low range 1st gear. I love it.