One drum brake shoe set worn to metal

[Mark_88]

There was never actually a manual fuel pump so I didn't have to do anything with mine...you wouldn't even have to remove your fuel pump either...I'd leave it on as a backup...or pull it and put a block-off plate and keep it in the truck...I've only had one fail so far but it lasted 8 years...maybe not as reliable as the manual pumps...but I still have one somewhere that I bought new for my 2.0 before the swap.

Anyway...as for the bleed...if you can find one of those one-man kits they work very well...you could probably make one yourself because all they are is a small plastic bottle and a long hose...hang the bottle above the wheel cylinder (yes, not below) and attach the hose to the bleeder...pump the brake pedal a few times after cracking the bleeder screw and sit back and watch the bubbles...takes about 20 minutes per side...or less.

most auto parts stores carry them and I don't think they are more than $10...

 

[wildbill23c]

There was never actually a manual fuel pump so I didn't have to do anything with mine...you wouldn't even have to remove your fuel pump either...I'd leave it on as a backup...or pull it and put a block-off plate and keep it in the truck...I've only had one fail so far but it lasted 8 years...maybe not as reliable as the manual pumps...but I still have one somewhere that I bought new for my 2.0 before the swap.

Anyway...as for the bleed...if you can find one of those one-man kits they work very well...you could probably make one yourself because all they are is a small plastic bottle and a long hose...hang the bottle above the wheel cylinder (yes, not below) and attach the hose to the bleeder...pump the brake pedal a few times after cracking the bleeder screw and sit back and watch the bubbles...takes about 20 minutes per side...or less.

most auto parts stores carry them and I don't think they are more than $10...

The fuel pump in my 84 Ranger started leaking so I replaced it. However that was the only vehicle I've had with a mechanical fuel pump. I had a 93 ford tempo and the fuel pump failed in it and it was an electric pump...so I'm 1 for 1 on fuel pump failures LOL. So for the electric pump just running the power wire to the fuse panel (gives it key on power) doesn't cause the fuel pump to dump too much fuel in at idle and not enough fuel in at higher speeds? That's the only thing I'd be worried about is too much or too little fuel issues.

I may just do the water bottle and hose route, I think that's what I did when I replaced the brakes on my 84 Ranger. May look at that 1 man kit though IDK yet LOL.

 

[Mark_88]

The electric fuel pumps will slow or stop pumping when the bowl is full. The needle in the carb is activated by the float in the bowl (hypothetically) and when the float rises, it shuts the fuel inlet at the carb...and the fuel pump should stop pumping (my new one doesn't for some reason)...

It depends on the float level and fuel consumption...float too low would leave very little fuel in the bowl...but an adjustment could fix that easily.

 

[wildbill23c]

The electric fuel pumps will slow or stop pumping when the bowl is full. The needle in the carb is activated by the float in the bowl (hypothetically) and when the float rises, it shuts the fuel inlet at the carb...and the fuel pump should stop pumping (my new one doesn't for some reason)...

It depends on the float level and fuel consumption...float too low would leave very little fuel in the bowl...but an adjustment could fix that easily.

Awesome, thanks for the knowledge. If my fuel pump fails I think I'll swap it out for an electric one.

 

[Mark_88]

You're welcome...

If you make your own bleeder kit, I think the bottle and hose need to be sealed to help create a vacuum or whatever it uses. My little bottle (about the size of a prescription pill container) has a screw-on lid and the hose fits tightly into an opening that is horizontal...I have one here and would post a pic but I have to go out to the garage and find the dang thing...

Just searched for 'one-man brake bleed' and this came up...home made~

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvyztDFHhaY

This is the actual kit from autozone...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkd7iq-dIQ0

 

[Mark_88]

Only thing about the autozone video...the instructions show to put the bottle higher than the bleeder...I guess it works either way, but putting the bottle higher doesn't require as many pedal pumps...why, I have no idea...but it worked for me.

 

[wildbill23c]

Thanks Mark. Well I got all the stuff to do the brakes this afternoon, so one of these days (soon I hope) that I get off work at a descent time so I have enough daylight to do them, I'll get everything done. I think the worst part for me at least has always been the dang springs LOL. The local tire/brake shop are turning my drums for me, they said they actually weren't bad at all but I wanted them to have a good surface. $10 for each drum to be turned don't know if that's standard or not but seemed like a better deal than $40 each for new drums right now LOL. I got the brake shoes, brake hardware kit, along with both wheel cylinders. So about $70 for nice new brakes. The drums themselves didn't look too bad or feel that rough to me, so I felt safe just having them turned and the guy at the shop said there was plenty of drum surface to just smooth them up.

 

[Mark_88]

Springs...ugh~

Without access to the proper tool to do them, I found that by clamping (and I mean really clamping) a pair of vice grips on them at right angles to the spring I was able to use both hands to unhook them from the peg (at the top)...also works well in reverse when putting them on.

More than once I didn't clamp them tight enough and my hands met the studs rather violently...so wear gloves for that part...lol

Other than the two top springs the rest is just take your time...make sure to grease the contact points for the shoes and any other parts that may need it...but it sounds like you have experience doing them so...just a reminder...

Have fun...that's the main thing!

 

[wildbill23c]

Springs...ugh~

Without access to the proper tool to do them, I found that by clamping (and I mean really clamping) a pair of vice grips on them at right angles to the spring I was able to use both hands to unhook them from the peg (at the top)...also works well in reverse when putting them on.

More than once I didn't clamp them tight enough and my hands met the studs rather violently...so wear gloves for that part...lol

Other than the two top springs the rest is just take your time...make sure to grease the contact points for the shoes and any other parts that may need it...but it sounds like you have experience doing them so...just a reminder...

Have fun...that's the main thing!

It always takes me forever it seems like to do drum brakes, but maybe its because its a long time before I have to touch them again. I never have greased the contact points in any of the jobs I've done in the past. What grease do you recommend?

 

[Mark_88]

I have used two or three different brands and can't remember the name specifically of any of them. They are outside in the garage currently and can look tomorrow...last one I used was purple coloured...comes in a tube about 4" long...you don't need much for the rear brakes but I also used it on the caliper shims...very important there to stop binding...

But any auto parts store will have a variety to choose from...and most come in a tube that you can squeeze onto the recommended areas...there is a section in the Haynes manual about this...where I first learned about it because otherwise I wouldn't have even thought they needed grease.

I did my rear brakes about two years ago and they have worked great...and put more grease on the front shims last year because I wasn't sure if I did them properly the first time about 5 years ago...

Like you say there is usually a long time between doing them so easy to forget.

 

[wildbill23c]

I have used two or three different brands and can't remember the name specifically of any of them. They are outside in the garage currently and can look tomorrow...last one I used was purple coloured...comes in a tube about 4" long...you don't need much for the rear brakes but I also used it on the caliper shims...very important there to stop binding...

But any auto parts store will have a variety to choose from...and most come in a tube that you can squeeze onto the recommended areas...there is a section in the Haynes manual about this...where I first learned about it because otherwise I wouldn't have even thought they needed grease.

I did my rear brakes about two years ago and they have worked great...and put more grease on the front shims last year because I wasn't sure if I did them properly the first time about 5 years ago...

Like you say there is usually a long time between doing them so easy to forget.

Thanks Mark, before I tackle the brakes I think I'll pickup some grease and use on this application, especially given the age of the truck, everything is pretty sticky on it already, even the doors sometimes don't want to open easily.

I keep hoping for an easier day at work and getting off at a descent time, however every time I have something planned it seems like they screw around up there for 20 minutes after we close making my job of cleaning up take longer than it should. Luckily I get paid by the hour LOL, but that's not the point, the point is I have 1 day off a week to do a weeks worth of home and vehicle projects, its not working out so well LOL. On the plus side I've picked up several more hours a week at work so my paychecks are looking better.

Anyhow, I'll update this as to how it goes. Probably at this point it won't be till this weekend.

 

[wildbill23c]

Ok, so the brakes are back together with new parts, now the driver's side spins, but the passenger side I can't spin by hand at all, after a very short test drive the passenger side brake was smoking. I can't back the self adjuster off any farther its as loose as it will go, what would cause this since everything is new? I've taken everything off and put it back on and same issue.

 

[adsm08]

Frozen parking brake cable.

 

[Mark_88]

And dang again...I have a new set sitting here that I may not be able to use that I could send you...can't take them back now because I bought them about six months ago...and I doubt they will work with the 96 hardware...

Anyway, yes, parking brake cables are prone to freezing, seizing, and otherwise getting stuck when you least expect it...I would like to have a look at how they are made and whether the manufacturer or designer even considered putting a lubricant in there to stop them from sticking to themselves...

 

[wildbill23c]

Frozen parking brake cable.

That's what I started suspecting, but once I release the e-brake I can watch the shoes return if I have someone set and release the e-brake.

I swapped the drums between sides just for the hell of it and seems I have a drum that wasn't properly manufactured as when I threw that drum on the opposite side I have the same issue, wheel won't turn by hand and the other side now does. I think I found my problem. Going to return that drum tomorrow for a different one.