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Omg it's everywhere!!!!


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OK, a stupid question begets a stupid question.

Since this oil level check is happening at oil change, do you put a dry filter on, dump 5 quarts down the filler and check it before starting the engine?

If so a quart over is perfect. Your oil filter holds about a quart of oil that will not be reflected on the dipstick since the dipstick only shows the contents of the oil pan, which should nominally be 4 quarts.


Also, you don't check engine oil with the engine on. I really fell like we shouldn't have to tell you this stuff, you are 30+, you should know everything there is to know by now.

X2!
 
SO swapped the Thermostat, old one passed test. Fan has resistance when turning it.

Temp still climbs when at stop or idle and drops when driving. Next ideas?
 
Clogged rad, failing water pump, bad fan clutch... my money is still on the fan clutch but if you don't want to take the advice we give please stop asking for it.

Remember you are dealing with a 20 year old truck so stop acting like a 15 year old kid.

Did you apologize to the girlfriend yet? If not you will get no respect from us.
 
Why would you ever check the oil with the engine running? Wonder who taught you that little trick.You do know that oil is circulated threw the engine.That is what the oil pump does.It pumps oil.Why would you think that you would get the same reading as when it is not running?
I do this to see if pressure is building up in the pan instead of a vacuum. It's suppose to vacuum from pump, but pressure is building up which is why it's higher up on the dipstick. also this lets me check for bubbles or coolant in the oil.

OK, a stupid question begets a stupid question.

Since this oil level check is happening at oil change, do you put a dry filter on, dump 5 quarts down the filler and check it before starting the engine?

If so a quart over is perfect. Your oil filter holds about a quart of oil that will not be reflected on the dipstick since the dipstick only shows the contents of the oil pan, which should nominally be 4 quarts.


Also, you don't check engine oil with the engine on. I really fell like we shouldn't have to tell you this stuff, you are 30+, you should know everything there is to know by now.
I am well aware of this process. I heat the block, drain the oil, replace the plug, remove the oil filter, take new filter and apply a nice thin layer of oil to the gasket, screw in, refill with oil, run engine till hot, shut engine off and then check levels.

On the vehicle you can also spin it cold it should spin 2 or 3 revs. When it is normal operating temp say after a ten mile ride and let it idle 5 or 10 minutes shut off motor and spin again. This time should only do about a half rev before it stops. If more....Junk it.
I did this method and it passed.

As for the girlfriend.... I recommend roses... dinner with a good bottle of wine... and a serious apology..... Maybe she will forgive you for being such an ass. That comes from the voice of experience.
I think everyone is focused a little to much on this, all she does is yell back "What kind of idiot has a truck with a leak"
 
I don't know if anyone said this but just because no coolant is getting into the oil doesn't mean you don't have a head gasket leak. Could have a breach between one of the cylinders and the water jacket.
 
Did you ever change out the thermostat?
 
Old school trick: Get engine up to operating temperature/take a piece of cardboard about a foot wide by a foot long/fold it in half/hold one end tightly and SLOWLY move the free end of the cardboard into the tips of the fan....

the blades should continue to turn while shredding the end of the cardboard---IF THE FAN CLUTCH IS STILL GOOD...

if the fan clutch is faulty....the blades will slow down a LOT or stop turning.


DO NOT TRY THIS IF YOU ARE A ROOKIE AND YOU LIKE YOUR FINGERS!
 
Old school trick: Get engine up to operating temperature/take a piece of cardboard about a foot wide by a foot long/fold it in half/hold one end tightly and SLOWLY move the free end of the cardboard into the tips of the fan....

the blades should continue to turn while shredding the end of the cardboard---IF THE FAN CLUTCH IS STILL GOOD...

if the fan clutch is faulty....the blades will slow down a LOT or stop turning.


DO NOT TRY THIS IF YOU ARE A ROOKIE AND YOU LIKE YOUR FINGERS!

Rookie yes... Fingers, hate them will just use a long piece of cardboard. But thanks this is a great idea.
 
There should be some resistance to turning the fan with the engine off. If it spins freely then it may be fubar. I'm not sure exactly, but I think there is a fluid inside the "hub" which thickens when heated and causes the fan to start turning for real when needed. I could be totally wrong though. Hopefully panama or someone else with more knowledge has some insight. Taurus fans are an option, check with the search button for years etc.
Good luck,

Richard

PS, no one is too old to learn

A little off topic here but thats not exactly how a fan clutch works. I busted the bad clutch from my van open to see how it worked:

There is a coil on the front, that attaches to a shaft, that in-turn attaches to an internal plate with holes in it. When cold; the holes in the plate line up with holes in the housing and the fluid moves freely, allowing the clutch and fan to spin with limited resistance. When heated; the plate turns and blocks off the holes stopping (maybe just slowing) the fluid flow, locking up the clutch, and spinning the fan.
 
remove the rad cap. check coolant level, top off if low...start the engine… check for bubbles…..
warm up the engine. check coolant level, if low add coolant, check for bubbles…
look to see if the coolant is flowing… if not. the water pump fins are worn…
if the coolant was low after the engine warmed up, thermostat opened, you had air in the system….top off the coolant.
if the coolant slowly overflows, look for a restricted air flow, cooling fan not working properly. fan put on backwards (it happens)… if it boils out you may have a head gasket leaking… don't let the engine get to hot… no need to test the melting temp of the engine..
borrow a coolant test kit, test for combustion gases getting into the coolant...
 
This is slightly off topic, but does anyone make a electric water pump for our engines? It's part of the slightly beefier reman I'm working on.
 
I haven't seen one but that doesn't mean someone doesn't make one. There is nothing wrong with the mechanical ones you just need to replace them every so often. Nothing lasts forever.
 
After first getting my truck I changed the oil using a Fram filter. Filled the filter first then dumped the rest in,ran it,and it was almost a quart overfilled. Switched to Motorcraft after hearing horror stories on here (about Fram) and now the oil level is right on the line with 5 quarts.
 
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