Old Mustang Q's

[85_Ranger4x4]

Been turning over getting a car to mess around with...

I have always liked the old 67-68 Mustangs, one thing that I don't get is the packages. I grew up in the 90's and 00's where you either had a GT or a V6.

There are I6's, 2bbl V8's and 4bbl V8's. There are big blocks too but I don't think I would ever have one of those fall into my lap.

Aside from the engine/trans what else changes? I don't really care so much about originality, is an I6 car much different than a V8 car aside from the engine?

 

[1996xlt]

Short answer is the uni-bodies are all the same from I6 to V8. Where you run into differences is between body styles (Coupe/FB/Conv.) Coupes and fastbacks had a front torque box on the passenger side underneath the floor (mine does) some had both but, I haven't seen/heard any consistency. Convertibles had both for strength with additional bracing throughout.

I assume if you may want to swap a I6 to V8 in which case everything pretty much swaps over one for one. Between CL and all the aftermarket parts companies you should be able to do a small block swap fairly cheap.

Check out this forum: http://www.vintage-mustang.com/

Not quite as good as this forum, but there is a lot of good info there.

 

[RonD]

Older Mustang would be a nice project, they look sweet.
I used to rebuild old Cameros and Chevelles, not restore in the true sense, just build them with what I wanted.

You can get older cars WITHOUT matching engines or other original package options for a reasonable amount of money, even without an engine or trans is fine.

Collector cars with documentation, all original parts and low miles cost big $$ and they should.

But the body and frame for most aren't that bad, and then you can put in what you want, I6, V8, big block V8, auto, 4 speed, A/C, posi-traction, disc brakes, power brakes and steering, P/W, P/Door locks.
Basically build a Mustang the factory couldn't for that year because it wasn't an option yet.
And it IS a Daily Driver, no miles to consider.
Stock on the outside, all the new options on the inside(underside)

I would NOT do this to an all original Mustang, but if it ain't original then make it worth while to drive.
Also much less expensive to do this type of build, and at the end it will usually be worth more than the parts you bought, your time would be free but at least you had fun and didn't lose money, lol.
And the NEXT Mustang build will be even better

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If I was to stumble onto a nice 4bbl 4 speed car I would leave it alone. I don't think I could put up with an I6 or a 2bbl V8.

Bottom line is I want to end up with a V8 and a manual, if it isn't something rare it will get cruise and a 5 speed so I can long distance it. Might get fuel injection down the road too. Aside from that, a modern radio and a nice exhaust and maybe brakes I don't have too many fusses.

I am wanting a coupe which really cuts down on the rarity/desirability vs a fastback. What adds the rarity is while I don't care so much about the powertrain I don't want a rust bucket.

 

[RonD]

Looked at the Omaha Craigslist and there are a few '60s Mustang rebuilds for sale.

Looks like you should be able to pick one up for $2,000-$3,000, plus car trailer rental.

And any seller that mentions "what a car is worth restored" pass on it, they are idiots and you will not get a good deal, because..........they are idiots.

All original with documented low mile collector cars are worth big dollars but still only what someone will pay for them.

A car that simply "looks" like one that sold for $20,000 don't make it that car, even if fully restored to factory state it still won't have the original status, which is what the big dollar buyers are paying for.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I haven't really seen too much in the 67-68 vintage that is worthy of writing home about on there. They either say outright they are rusty or don't say much more than their phone number.

There is a blue one with a neat level of patina but they say it has rust in the usual places too...

I am not real serious right now, still trying to figure out how much of a fixer upper I want and how much I want already done. Right now I think one fresh from the paint shop but sans powertrain for about $2k would be great.

 

[hondaxr650]

Keep in mind that a 6 cyl. car will have 4 lug wheels too. Not really much of a problem if you plan to upgrade the front brakes and rear axle though.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Keep in mind that a 6 cyl. car will have 4 lug wheels too. Not really much of a problem if you plan to upgrade the front brakes and rear axle though.

That was only the six cylinders?

Is it just the axleshafts or the whole rear axle?

Disc brakes would probably happen but I really don't want four lug wheels...

I think something like this would be great no vinyl top, the body is nice, interior is done... I know where there has been a really late model low mile 351W sitting under a workbench...

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/4284767645.html

 

[RonD]

I wouldn't let rust through you, for cars like the older Mustangs you can buy quarter panels for $220, a pair of full length floor pans are $125, rockers $250.
Pretty much every body panel/part is available and at reasonable prices.
We are not going for "original" here, what you doing is building a 2014 '67 Mustang, lol.

But I see where you are going, you feel more comfortable with mechanic work than body work, me too
But the issue there is that people will pay more for a car that looks good than runs good, that's just the way of it, so sellers have more buyers available.

Take a magnet and cloth with you to see where the "bondo" filler is on the "straight" good paint cars.
Maybe get you a more reasonable price.

My rule of thumb on a car with straight body, OK paint, and reasonable interior is to subtract $3,000 from price and then ask "would I buy whats left for that price?"

 

[Dune Runner]

Many years ago I had a 66 Fastback 289 auto. I would start by finding one with a decent body and go from there. I have a buddy that bought a 68 fastback cheap due to a blown motor and he swapped in a Chevy 396 and a Muncie 4spd. These cars are real easy to work on and you can build them any way you want. Finding one that isnt rusted out is the hard part.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Front frame rails, torque boxes, rear frame rails around the shackles and the cowl vent hats are the common rot point on classic mustangs.

My 67 when I got it 2 years ago. Pretty much a barn find. Hadn't been on the road for 25 years.

After cleaning, detailing and some modern rubber and rims

67 289 2bbl car c4 trans. I swapped out the intake and put a 4bbl 570cfm vac secondaries carb. And some dress up goodies under the hood.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I wouldn't let rust through you, for cars like the older Mustangs you can buy quarter panels for $220, a pair of full length floor pans are $125, rockers $250.
Pretty much every body panel/part is available and at reasonable prices.
We are not going for "original" here, what you doing is building a 2014 '67 Mustang, lol.

But I see where you are going, you feel more comfortable with mechanic work than body work, me too
But the issue there is that people will pay more for a car that looks good than runs good, that's just the way of it, so sellers have more buyers available.

Take a magnet and cloth with you to see where the "bondo" filler is on the "straight" good paint cars.
Maybe get you a more reasonable price.

My rule of thumb on a car with straight body, OK paint, and reasonable interior is to subtract $3,000 from price and then ask "would I buy whats left for that price?"

Yeah, sheetmetal is cheap... get it installed isn't. I got a quote from a shop to change a cab corner and fix some rust on the doors of my F-150, it didn't take long at all to get close to $2k... and that is just painting what he was going replace. A car that needs quarter panels and other work will probably need a paint job on the whole thing too...

Front frame rails, torque boxes, rear frame rails around the shackles and the cowl vent hats are the common rot point on classic mustangs.

My 67 when I got it 2 years ago. Pretty much a barn find. Hadn't been on the road for 25 years.

I remember back when you got that thing, some people get all the luck.