oil question

[cutlassranger]

Im gettin ready to do a oil change in my ranger, what do you guys use for oil

10w30,10w40,20w30, full senthetic?
I thought about using some engine restore ,shound i ?

Is there any other addiives u had succes with ??

 

[MAKG]

On an '86?

API spec SL, 10W-30 (unless it's subzero -- then 5W-30). Exactly what the owner's manual says.

You can use synthetic if you want to, but your engine will be just fine with conventional.

 

[Tedybear]

About the only 'extra' I've had any success with? Lucas. I wouldn't trust "Restore" as far as I can throw the auto parts store that sells it.

Using 10w40 now. High Mileage. (edit: As noted, correct weight oil also depends on the current climate---eg...how cold it will be while in use. There should be a "chart" in the manual that shows a graph explaining this)

Full Syn. is decent oil.. It will do some things dino-oil won't. However always remember the dino-oil is what the engine was designed to run on. There is no subbing for a good quality oil, good high quality filter...and a strict schedule of keeping it changed at the right time.

S-

 

[cutlassranger]

i dont hae the owner manual... at least i ditn see one in there but thanks


i take it it doesnt help 2 use thicker oils


what abotu additives

 

[Tedybear]

Bear in mind that all oil off the shelf has additives already included for special uses. The reason I use Lucas is to prevent 'dry starts' Lucas tends to make the engine oil a touch "Sticky" (for lack of a better word) So it leaves more of a coating on bearings. At least that is the theory.

Most 'extras' have a few things installed to help...oil leak prevention, etc.. But some just thicken up the current oil and can do more harm then good.

Slick 50 is decent, Lucas is decent...But I'd stay far away from what is known as a "Cure" for engine problems (such as 'Restore'...) All things being equal? If the engine has a known problem? There is only one sure fire correction, and that is to have it repaired correctly.

Thicker oil can help boost a slightly weak oil system..It's thicker so it can retain pressure a bit better. The major draw back with thicker oil? It tends to be hard to pump up into the system when things are stone cold--and it can be very bad on days when things are extremely cold.

My old rule of thumb used to be for engines with less then 50,000 miles..and the temps where running above a 30f baseline? 10w30 should be fine. Drop below that 30f base line? And I used to recommend 5w30 (pumps better when stone cold). Over 50,000 miles? 10w40 for over 30f. And reduce to 10w30 below 30f. Reasoning: As the engine gets more mileage on it? The small clearances with the bearings will become slightly larger, and a thinner oil will not be able to provide enough protection. (The crank/cam/etc...anything with an oiled bearing does NOT!! ride on the bearing surface, but a small wedge of oil under pressure)

That was my old method of about 18 years ago when I used to turn a wrench for a living. Newer cars and trucks? Heck, the Sprinter I use for work needs 0w30 syn. The clearances are that TINY!

Depending on how cold it is where you are, and how cold it can be expected? That's a good baseline for what to use.

S-

 

[cutlassranger]

thanks i apperiate it

my engien has 87,xxx
and its around 35 degrese f

 

[doorgunner]

He's right---Lucas is good (so is their injector cleaner). If it uses a quart of oil between changes, go with a 10w40 oil (COLD weather= 5w40). I've got a friend who has an engine with 350,000 miles on it--he has gone to 50wt. oil to stop oil consumption--the engine runs great(rebuild in the future, but for now it keeps on going)