oil pressure?

[RonD]

Society of Automotive Engineers(SAE) and Ford did tests back in the 1970's.
They found that coolant temps above 190degF, in upper engine, kept oil hot enough to burn off most contaminants, so cleaner oil.
There is also a benefit of more efficient combustion with coolant temp above 190degF, so less emissions, plus better power and MPG.

That is why the 190+degF thermostats, most car makers now follow that research and run 190+ thermostats.

A working thermostat of 180degF or 200degF can't prevent overheating, the 20deg difference would mean only a few seconds more to get from 180 to 250deg

And just a heads up, some car makers and engines have the thermostat on return radiator hose, so lower rad hose, these would be 180-185degF, because lower hose/engine temp is 15-20degF cooler than upper hose/engine where most thermostat are.
So when lower engine t-stat opens at 180degF, upper engine coolant would be at 190+degF

 

[Curious Hound]

Thanks to both of you. It sounds like everything may be fine. I will still get a IR gun and double check. The gauge I installed has no graduations between 210 and 250. I am interpolating that reading using my finely calibrated eyeball and a pair of glasses.

The sensor is right at the base of the t-stat housing. I believe the ECT is what I see just barely off to the driver's side of the t-stat, with it's plug (2 wires) pointed up.

 

[Louatlvc]

After market oil pressure guage

Hi guys,
I read with interest your posts because I also want to install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. I called the support people at Glow Shift and they told me that I need to find out what the thread pitch is for my current oil pressure sensor on my 1995 Ranger 3.0 V6. They said the aftermarket uses a 1/8 NPF size and my Ranger probably uses a different size so I need some type of T-fitting that will convert it. I've looked all over the forums and web to try to figure this out with no luck. Can anybody give me some advice? Thanks a lot. Lou

 

[Rearanger]

They said the aftermarket uses a 1/8 NPF size and my Ranger probably uses a different size so I need some type of T-fitting that will convert it.

I forget what I used but I would think the Ford pressure sender thread is either 1/8" NPT or 1/4" NPT. Whether it's a fine thread or not I can't remember.

Ford uses metric nuts/bolts but I doubt the pressure switch is metric.

I have found NAPA has a good supply of different fittings, or at least access to what will work. You could just remove the stock sender and take it in to match.

I would also recommend used Permatex High Performance Thread Sealer for the threads - which may or may not need an accelerator/activator, consult with Permatex.

 

[RonD]

Hi guys,
I read with interest your posts because I also want to install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. I called the support people at Glow Shift and they told me that I need to find out what the thread pitch is for my current oil pressure sensor on my 1995 Ranger 3.0 V6. They said the aftermarket uses a 1/8 NPF size and my Ranger probably uses a different size so I need some type of T-fitting that will convert it. I've looked all over the forums and web to try to figure this out with no luck. Can anybody give me some advice? Thanks a lot. Lou

Go to auto parts store and have them pull a replacement Oil Pressure switch for your year/engine, I think it is 1/4" NPT but could be Metric
Then find the adapter or "T" for that thread to 1/8" NPT.

But FIRST look at where your oil pressure switch is on the engine, behind passenger side head, to make sure you have clearance for the fitting(s) you get.

 

[Louatlvc]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. I have a NAPA close by so I'll see if they can help me with an adapter. Good advice on checking clearance beforehand!
Lou

 

[Curious Hound]

Mine ('93 3.0L) was 1/4"npt. It is a royal PITA to get to. I could only reach it from underneath the truck, even though it is close to the top of the engine. I couldn't get my hands between the A/C box and valve cover, head, firewall, etc. from the top.

I installed a 1/4" -1/8" reducing bushing in the block. Then I threaded an adapter into that so I could use a steel braided hose to extend the whole mess out where it is easier to work on. I think the hose had -6AN or -4AN fittings on it. At the other end of the hose, I put another AN -1/8"npt adapter fitting and then a tee so I could thread the new pressure transducer into one side and the original pressure switch (with appropriate 1/8"nptm to 1/4"nptf adapter) in the other side. I still need to make a mounting bracket to hold the whole thing, But I almost have that worked out. Hopefully I can finish it this weekend and post a picture next week. Currently, the sensors are securely zip-tied to the heater hoses.

With the remote mount and hose, I decided I should have a ground wire to the body of the sensors for proper operation also.

Over on the drivers side, you may find an unused square grommet that provides a handy place to pass wires into the cab without having to drill any holes. If I remember correctly, the grommet is near where the throttle cable passes through.