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Oil pressure concern


Johnnyboiranger22

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2017
Messages
226
Age
29
City
St Petersburg, FL
Vehicle Year
1991
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
Tire Size
215/75/14
So I have a 1991 ranger 2.3 lima and long story short i did a cylinder head gasket and new head. The problem im having now is the oil pressure needle not reading right. When i start it cold needle read fine as truck starts to warm up it goes haywire and just goes to L in red zone, however if i hit the gas it goes to normal but when coming to stop at idle it goes back to red zone, I dont here any unusual noises coming from lifter or pump however I changed the sender unit already and its still doing it and i did a pressure test and it was reading 24psi when cold. Could this be a wiring issue or oil pump? The truck throws no engine codes or anything it actually running pretty smooth. I heard the oil screen can get clogged and cause this issue could it be that? I have a inspection camera to put in oil pan.
 
So I have a 1991 ranger 2.3 lima and long story short i did a cylinder head gasket and new head. The problem im having now is the oil pressure needle not reading right. When i start it cold needle read fine as truck starts to warm up it goes haywire and just goes to L in red zone, however if i hit the gas it goes to normal but when coming to stop at idle it goes back to red zone, I dont here any unusual noises coming from lifter or pump however I changed the sender unit already and its still doing it and i did a pressure test and it was reading 24psi when cold. Could this be a wiring issue or oil pump? The truck throws no engine codes or anything it actually running pretty smooth. I heard the oil screen can get clogged and cause this issue could it be that? I have a inspection camera to put in oil pan.
They tell me it's most likely to sending unit I have the same situation on my truck
 
when you replaced the sender/switch did you use thread sealant? it's a one wire sender/switch meaning it transfers ground through through the switch (it is really just a normally open switch with pressure around 5psi closing the contacts, Ford hasn't installed a pressure sender for a gauge that actually read oil pressure since the 70's, and those were an option) from the engine block (or is it head? I'm thinking block but don't remember, the pressure port in the head is in the same corner).

Anyway, long story short if you put teflon tape on the switch on install and didn't leave a couple threads without the switch most likely doesn't have a good ground to send to the dash.

For the record, my stock oil pressure gauge hasn't read right since I put the turbo engine in in 2009 I think, but I'm running a mechanical gauge in a pod on the A pillar, 25psi hot idle and 50psi cold idle. If you are running 25psi cold idle there could be something going on but that is reasonable, like I said the stock switch is around 5-7psi so that's where Ford says isn't good :)
 
when you replaced the sender/switch did you use thread sealant? it's a one wire sender/switch meaning it transfers ground through through the switch (it is really just a normally open switch with pressure around 5psi closing the contacts, Ford hasn't installed a pressure sender for a gauge that actually read oil pressure since the 70's, and those were an option) from the engine block (or is it head? I'm thinking block but don't remember, the pressure port in the head is in the same corner).

Anyway, long story short if you put teflon tape on the switch on install and didn't leave a couple threads without the switch most likely doesn't have a good ground to send to the dash.

For the record, my stock oil pressure gauge hasn't read right since I put the turbo engine in in 2009 I think, but I'm running a mechanical gauge in a pod on the A pillar, 25psi hot idle and 50psi cold idle. If you are running 25psi cold idle there could be something going on but that is reasonable, like I said the stock switch is around 5-7psi so that's where Ford says isn't good :)


Thanks scott, i will double check readings, I was going to get a oil cleaner or devlogger and pour in engine and let it sit overnight and get a wire hanger and trybto clean te screen.
 
when you replaced the sender/switch did you use thread sealant? it's a one wire sender/switch meaning it transfers ground through through the switch (it is really just a normally open switch with pressure around 5psi closing the contacts, Ford hasn't installed a pressure sender for a gauge that actually read oil pressure since the 70's, and those were an option) from the engine block (or is it head? I'm thinking block but don't remember, the pressure port in the head is in the same corner).

Anyway, long story short if you put teflon tape on the switch on install and didn't leave a couple threads without the switch most likely doesn't have a good ground to send to the dash.

For the record, my stock oil pressure gauge hasn't read right since I put the turbo engine in in 2009 I think, but I'm running a mechanical gauge in a pod on the A pillar, 25psi hot idle and 50psi cold idle. If you are running 25psi cold idle there could be something going on but that is reasonable, like I said the stock switch is around 5-7psi so that's where Ford says isn't good :)

What are the odds of the oil pump going bad?
 
These oil pumps don't go bad, if you really do have low pressure it is a restriction in the pickup screen or there is a bad bearing letting lots of oil out... When I put in my first turbo engine I used the stock Ranger oil pump with most likely 200k on it (It showed 89k on it when I got it in '99 but could have been 189k for all I know, did a turbo swap on it and have rolled it again since), had reasonable pressure up until I changed it after I blew a rod and built another engine.
 
What part gets oil first in the engine?
What part always has oil? The oil pump.

Pumps can wear out due to cavitation and 'stuff' floating in the oil. If you take one apart, you will likely find groove marks on the pump gear teeth. If you get enough, it will not produce as much volume & pressure. The housing and gear cover can also wear, allowing more leakage past the 'ends' of the gears. But it takes a long time to make one become inadequate.
Pressure is developed when you have restriction in flow. You need some restriction to make sure oil gets to the 'furthest point' in the system, and have enough flow to keep the plain bearings floating on their 'wave' of oil and carry away heat. More is a waste of energy.
tom
 
Keeping you guys updating with repair so luckily i bought a mini inspection camera 2 weeks ago, so i tried looking through oil drain plug and no luck seeing pickup screen, so i've taken the low oil sensor out side and put camera through there and lord behold what i found, Fords yellow sealant gunk on screen.
 
Does anyone have any other ideas to clean the screen out I will attach some photos of what i'm dealing with, I'm trying the metal hanger right now, i know i don't want to pull the engine. Is there anyway possible i can detach oil pan and wiggle it alitttle and get to screen?
 

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