Oil drain plug problem!

[killj0y]

Ok so I went to change my oil on a 96 2wd 2.3 and after draining I went to put the plug back in only it won't tighten so it leaks a little. After hitting the auto parts store for a new one I find its waaaay too small. So what's the deal I tried the 2 sizes the dealership had listed. Both are too small. What do I do? A 14 and a 12 won't fit. The original fells blike it is going to tighten but then slips, even with teflon tape! Looks stock as far as I know, any advice? Its my dd so I need it running asap!

 

[killj0y]

If it helps the plug has a cross cut into the end! With a hollow recessed home in it.

 

[doorgunner]

9/16" would be in between those...

how about for now.....get a threaded pipe-plug that will fit in the hole....use plenty of teflon tape on it & screw it in snugly until it stops leaking...

if you can't find the correct oil plug later, buy a oil drain repair kit...

 

[naford]

Try NAPA. When I had a problem I walked across the street from the dealer to NAPA.

 

[fix_or_repair_daily]

Sounds like someone already put in one of those self tapping drain plugs specifically for stripped out drain holes. At least that what the one you are describing sounds like to me. That would explain why the hole is too big for the stock sized plugs. Might be time to replace the oil pan unless someone else knows an easier fix. Sorry for your troubles man.

Josh

 

[Captain Ledd]

Cake a drill bit in axle bearing grease and drill out the threads. Run a tap down the hole also gobbed in grease. Replace plug with the same size and thread pitch as the tap.

The grease will keep the metal shavings contained.

Or you could just pull the pan...

 

[librum]

And here I thought I was alone...

Spouse took truck to lube place as 'present'. Head and threads stripped of plug. Impossible to get out. And a major chore for me to pull pan, and knew I would have to replace the pan if I did pull it. $$$

Bought three plugs, two pointed end and one magnetic. Bought nut that fit plug, steel, not galvanized, etc. Measured three inches back from bung, in sump, sanded area to metal, and drilled in using air drill, as did not want oil in/on portable electric drill. After draining old oil, step drilled to accept the plug base. Put in the pointed end plug, to make threads. Pulled plug. Put nut on #2 pointed plug, ran up. Tack welded nut to pan. Tested fit by running plug in/out. When good fit assured, stitch welded nut to make bung. Put new magnetic plug in.

Lets see that kid strip this one!

Take care,

Librum

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

And here I thought I was alone...

Spouse took truck to lube place as 'present'. Head and threads stripped of plug. Impossible to get out. And a major chore for me to pull pan, and knew I would have to replace the pan if I did pull it. $$$

Bought three plugs, two pointed end and one magnetic. Bought nut that fit plug, steel, not galvanized, etc. Measured three inches back from bung, in sump, sanded area to metal, and drilled in using air drill, as did not want oil in/on portable electric drill. After draining old oil, step drilled to accept the plug base. Put in the pointed end plug, to make threads. Pulled plug. Put nut on #2 pointed plug, ran up. Tack welded nut to pan. Tested fit by running plug in/out. When good fit assured, stitch welded nut to make bung. Put new magnetic plug in.

Lets see that kid strip this one!

Take care,

Librum

Good job,

Richard

 

[librum]

Add on to earlier message.

DO NOT WELD ZINC PLATED / GALVANIZED NUTS.

I realized I was not clear on that.

The 'correct' plug is a 14x1.5, with magnetic slug. Forget trying to get a tap/die. That is why I used another to chase the threads. OIL-TITE part #65253 will get you a basic plug with no magnet. 'Needa?' brand part number 652166 has magnet.

Next. Just returned from the parts store for parts to her Cherokee. (Now that vehicle deserves the 'Fix Or Repair Daily'!) They are doing a brisk business repairing the oil drain plugs coming from the lube shop. For stripped threads in the pan, they are drilling out the plugs and putting in a 'universal' thumbscrew tightened plug.

'OIL-TITE!', 1/2" (1,27 cm) Universal. Part number 65200. Made by Dorman.
Also the 5/8" is 65201.

Cute little things. About $10. But says not to reuse.

Librum

 

[robertc1024]

Could you have just helicoil'd it?

 

[killj0y]

Holy thread revival! Well might as well update, my rubber replacement has held up well and no leaks :thumbup:, if I ever need to I can get another since they are fairly cheap.

 

[shane96ranger]

Since it's alive again.... my brother just had Jiffy Lube over tighten his plug on his Escape. When he pulled the plug I saw all the threads from the pan were on the plug. His pan is cast aluminum, and they put a larger plug in it. I told him I would have fought until they replaced the pan.

Yet another reason I always change my own oil.


On another note, I found an option for anyone this might happen to in the future. I was looking into some options for my brother and came across a Fumoto valve. They are pretty interesting, and I wouldn't mind putting one on my F150 and my Escape.

http://www.qwikvalve.com/

 

[robertc1024]

Seriously - Helicoil. Even better on an aluminum pan.

 

[shane96ranger]

Seriously - Helicoil. Even better on an aluminum pan.

That would work wonderful. But these buttholes at Jiffy Lube just pushed a bigger one in the hole. If I was there, it would have been a different deal.

 

[adsm08]

Actually, I wouldn't mind having one of those valves on my stuff. Sure seems like it beats the heck out of fussing with a bolt on my back.