Official 4.0 swap! 89 b2 xlt 2.9 auto to 4.0 with m5od complete conversion thread and

[BabyBronco89]

Okay guys I'm going to try to make the most complete build thread I have ever made to date with lots of pictures and such.

I'm waiting for my ride to get back then I'm picking up a fresh clutch for the M5OD trans and wading over to my cousins pole barn to complete the swap in 1 day!!!

I know I know it's ambitious, but I've done this quite a few times, and I have the techqiues down, granted everything goes as planned I don't think I should have any problems.

I will document step by step how to add a clutch pedal in a auto 2nd gen ranger or B2

I will document how to remove shifter block plate in a auto truck and install manual floor plate.

Show you how the 91 ranger 4.0 engine wiring harness will plug right into the 89 2.9 dash harness.

Stay tuned!!!! Will be lots of pics!!!!


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[Catterman]

Can't wait to see it, if you want more practice head to MN and you can do one for me. I will buy you a case of beer even! (You will however, have to share it with me...)

 

[BabyBronco89]

Okay so I'm going to start with pictures of old blue the 86 b2 that I swapped a 91 4.0 out of a ranger, I had a body mount slip out on front drivers side and the radiator core support finally rusted off, so it's time to repair the body before it sees road use again,

The reason I'm ripping the 4.0 outta this truck is because my windshield wipers weren't working a short somewhere and I hadn't hooked up the heater when I did the dash swap, also some head light issues, bot online I need a decent daily driver that has no issues and I blew up the tcase

here's the 91 4.0 I'm pulling outta the 86 b2

this is how I ran my fuel lines safely with no leaks and it is really easy to disconnect with two wrenches it's a 5/16 compression fitting to nylon barb connector


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[BabyBronco89]

Everyone that wants to use a auto trans computer with a manual transmission will have to cross the pink n red and blue wires on the a4ld auto trans pigtail, that would normally plug into the auto trans

Here's my junkyard find a4ld out of a 92 ranger

I bought a new clutch at advance for 133$


Okay now we're tearing into the 86 b2 and starting the removal

First things first drain coolant and remove radiator and fan shroud
Fan shroud is 2 8mm bolts
Radiator is 2 10mm bolts
I

I also remove the hoses that go to the heater core at this time as it helps get all the coolant out
I also remove the good and air box at this time

Air box is all 8mm bolts along with intake and hood
A impact makes quick work of this

Hood off coolant jugged up and intake box set aside

Hood hinges

now as things are getting outta the way I like to take off the 2 18 mm motor mount bolts the drivers is easy with a few extensions and a impact next to the exhaust manifold the passenger side is not so much fun.

Next I like to take off the brake master cylinder to move it outta the way
It's 2 15 mm bolts, use a deep well socket

next un do the power steering lines I put new lines on when I did the swap so I'm disconnecting them from the steering box, you can use the 2.9l power steering houses with no problem.

the fittings on the steering box are 5/8 n 9/16 use a open end box wrench




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[BabyBronco89]

always keep a drain bucket handy as lots of fluids are going to be constantly dripping.

use a boxed end wrench to loosen the top 2 bolts from tranny to engine and sometimes you can even get 4, I stratal the engine to get in there close.

Then remove the starter it's 2 17 mm bolts I always do the top one first as it can be a pain when the starters flipping around.

Here's my weld exhaust I had installed after I completed my swap unfortunately I took the saws all to her

Make sure all vacuum lines are disconnected remove the other two trans bolts from the bottom with extensions and breaker bar.
Tuck all dangling wires into engine so they don't get caught n yanked when your pulling her out.

she's finally out!!!

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[BabyBronco89]

Now were going to be pulling the old tired 2.9 and a4ld outta the 89 b2

First things first, again drain radiator and
Remove it
Remove heater core hoses

also remove tranny lines from radiator, remove the radiator and shroud just like mentioned above.
Losen the master brake cylinder same as before and set aside, leave the brake lines attached

pull the 2.9 engine harness out, it runs along the top back of the engine bay, and will have three plugs to disconnect t by the coil pack

set that harness to he passenger side we will be removing this later. And switching it with the 4.0 engine harness on the passenger kick panel.

Disconnect vacuum lines fuel lines power steering throttle cable engine grounds

Undo engine to trans bolts the same as described earlier

Take of starter

Take a 19mm socket and ratchet and have a partner turn over the engine from the harmonic balancer pully. while you spot the 4 9/16" nuts that must be removed to separate the torque converter from the flywheel.
Have your partner hold the crank steady while you break the nuts loose.

Remove the two 18mm engine mount bolts once again.
Double check everything is disconnected and pull the engine!
Don't have pics as this is the last thing I did today.





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[BabyBronco89]

Okay here's how to remove the dash and install the manual clutch pedal assembly

Remove the 4 small screws on top of the dash by windsheild

Remove the gauge cluster using a small torex bit I forget the size maybe t15?
Disconnect the speedo cable by pressing firmly on one side of the clip.
There are a couple small bolts that hold the dash to the steering column support bracket which is also the pedal bracket we need to remove.

then there is a bigger bolt by the fuse panel

and another under the passenger kick panel

heres a close up of the cluster area

So I had my brother working on the dash so I didn't get very good pics of the progress
He managed to get the old column mount out before I could take a pic

Soo unscrew all the dash bolts

Drop the steering column by removing the 2 13mm bolts
Slide the dash twords the seats
Get a long extension and undo the 4 bolts that hold the bracket on by the brake booster removing these nuts will alow the brake booster to be removed.

there is another nut at the top of the bracket also remove the bolts in the supporting brackets once their all off you will be able to pull out the auto pedal bracket and slide in the manual bracket with the extra clutch pedal, install the same way you took apart

And that's it for today folks, I didn't get to start until 1 today but I'd say I got another 4-6 hours to get her all back together, I know I haven't proffread this thing at all as I'm about half asleep now, I promise I'll go back thru when I'm all done and clean it up nice, think of this a a rough draft how to lol

Tom we will be installed the clutch hydraulics installing manual floor plate, swapping in the 4.0 engine wiring harness and putting her all back together.



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[wildbill23c]

Looking good, lots of work in that process that's for sure.

 

[kiehn18]

Take TOONNSSS of pictures for me!! Especailly on how you mount the ecu and all the wiring and all that good stuff! Lots and lots of pictures! Swapping the dash too?

 

[BabyBronco89]

I will try!! It's hard taking lots of pictures and being productive but I agree they do help, headed back to the shop to get started again


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[integman]

I really like this build, but the pics are all over the place lol. can't wait to see it run

 

[BabyBronco89]

Like I said I'm going to organize it all when finished, this is just a collaboration of my thoughts n work over the last few days. Going to post a little bit more now. I'm still not done as I ran into a unsuspected problem with the master clutch cylinder.




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[BabyBronco89]

Take TOONNSSS of pictures for me!! Especailly on how you mount the ecu and all the wiring and all that good stuff! Lots and lots of pictures! Swapping the dash too?

I took lots of pictures of the ECM wiring removal and installation ready??? Here we go!!

here is the old 2.9 engine harness it has the 3 relays under the metal bracket it runs under the fan blower box to the bottom corner of the fire wall by the passenger kick panel.

here's a bad view of the kick area where the computer is.

I always fold the corner of the carpet back to make it easier to get at

undo this one 7 mm bolt in the corner of the plastic bracket that hold the ECM

undo the main ECM ground 8 mm bolt

Disconnect the inertia switch up to the left of passenger side floor board.

disconnect the black and grey plugs.

Slide the computer out and unbolt the 10 mm bolt holding it to the harness.
Now your ready to remove the 2.9 l engine harness!
The 91 4.0 harness will have all the same connections as the 2.9 here by the kick panel no splicing or anything just plug in.

Pop out the oval rubber grommet that holds the 2.9 engine harness in the firewall.




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[BabyBronco89]

Okay she runs and drives with no check engine lights, but I'm super busy right now doing the things I haven't done in the past 3 days of working on this thing. I will finish this thread when I have time!!


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[richard booth]

Good job, appreciate your work.