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Odds of both hubs going out at once?


binks0678

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Messages
65
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
Last winter my electric 4x4 shift motor went out so my half ass solution was to turn the t-case with pliers and leave it in 4x4 but with the hubs unlocked until i needed it. drove probably a few hundred miles like that and worked good at the time, well now 4x4 wont work put it on jack stands and the front driveshaft spins and both front wheels spin but they are easy to stop them both with your hand. Im thinking since it was in 4x4 with unlocked hubs for so long it messed something up in the hubs due to the spinning driveshafts. Its always been kind of noisy in 4x4 and if its not hubs then it has to be the diff, however both axle shafts are spinning so i dont think its that. also when i lock it in and manually turn one wheel forward the other ones spins back so thats normal. whats everyone think and sorry for the novel :beer:
 
If the axle and wheel seem locked together then the hub is working.

It's hard to bust both hubs at the same time because the instant one of them breaks, no power can go to the other one.

With the hubs locked, engine off, tranny in park or gear, t-case engaged, both tires off the ground--turning one wheel should make the other one go backwards solidly and the driveshaft should not move. If it does, then the hubs and diff are behaving correctly.

Edit: I should mention: all it takes is one bad hub to stop the show. With one bad hub you no longer have a 4wd. I have had a hub fail internally without snapping the body off, which is the more usual failure. So it's possible you have one internally damaged.

Also, I forgot to comment on running it in 4x4 with the hubs unlocked. I don't see too big of a problem if everything is well maintained. But I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you've never replaced, lubricated or even seen the axle joints or spindle bearings. Nearly all old axles I've taken apart were totally frozen with corrosion. The truck is strong enough to articulate the joint, but it's common it is too stiff to move by hand. This will cause the spindle bearings to receive lots of wiggle loads and wipe them out, along with the bushing or bearing (could be either) in the hubs that support the outer end of the outer shaft. It would be loud while it was doing its dirty work and I could guess this would play merry hell with the working of the system. I'm going to guess that this is the cause of the trouble and the only solution is to completely dissasemble the axle and go through it all.
 
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I did that test the other day, truck on jackstands in 4x4 but i think i left it in neutral. anyway when i spun one wheel forward the other one went backwards. I know the problem has to be in front of the transfer case. With manual lock hubs if there gunked up or going bad can they just partially catch the axle? because when i put it in 4x4 on stands the front tires definetly spin when lockin in, in gear, idleing, however i can easily stop both tires at once with my hands. Also im fairly certain the diff is in bad need of an oil change which ill be doing before driving anywhere.
 
what could be wrong with a diff to make it so the wheels will turn but both be real easy to stop?
 
Do this to check if your front hubs are ok or slipping/busted, lock both front hubs, jack up one tire and leave the other on the ground, and try and turn by hand. If you Tcase is locked in 4WD, and your hubs are good, then you will only have about 1/4 inch movement, which will be the backlash in the gears...If your wheel is turning, look to see if your front dshaft is turning, if it is not turning and your tire is, you have a hub busted, look to see if your axleshafts in the diff is turning, if they are not, then the wheel you are turning has the busted hub, if the shafts are turning, then the opposite hub is busted, if the wheel is turning and the front dshaft is also turning, then your tcase is the problem, either not fully engaged in 4WD or has internal damage
SVT
 
Sounds like pretty normal operation to me with an open differential.
 
Unless you have a locking diff or a spool? Zero.

AD

He stated when both front wheels were in the air and he turned one wheel one direction, the opposite wheel turned in the opposite direction...
SVT
 
He stated when both front wheels were in the air and he turned one wheel one direction, the opposite wheel turned in the opposite direction...
SVT

Allan was responding to "Odds of both hubs failing at the same time."
 
thanks guys the trucks up in the air now getting new balljoints, wheel bearings, and a set used hubs. although im starting to lean towards the front diff being the issue both hubs i took off seemed to lock although they had at one point had water in them (bad wheel seals) once the balljoints are done i will do the above testa and let you all know.
 
Didn't think of it that way...:icon_confused: Let us know what you find out:icon_thumby:
SVT
 
HUBS....both of them aparently were shot. Got the ball joints, wheel bearings, and hubs in and bam 4x4 worked great. rides good and im happy with the way that fix went. However my front diff still def needs rebuilt. Went fourwheelin all day today and 4x4 worked great all day...however the grinding metal on metal noise comin from the front diff got a little annoying (last year i ran it dry for a bit to long) 2 oil flushes didnt make it any better so it will be coming off next. Should i just go ahead and get a dana 35? although then i need the dana 35 hubs spindles and all that shit.
 
Yeah, I wouldn't deal with the D28 at all, I'd go ahead and upgrade to the D35, while its out you can make all the mods and upgrades to the d35, like the C clip removable, drilling/tapping housing for a drain plug, etc.
SVT
 

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