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OBD1 trouble codes


1237jjm

Active Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
35
City
North Alabama
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Hi there, I recently bought a code reader and pulled the codes to figure out the check engine light. Im kind of new to DIY repairs so I was hoping for some help on what all of the codes really translated to. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Engine Off:
211- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) circuit fault.
223- Distributorless Ignition System- loss of dual plug inhibit (DPI) control.
224- Erratic IDM input to processor or SPOUT circuit ground/coil 1,2,3 or 4.

Engine On:
998- Operating in failure mode.
 
That's what I think it is, I tested the coils today and they were fine. At some point I'll get around to checking the spark plugs. If its any help about every week it won't start, it'll turn over but won't start. All I have to do is wait ten minutes and try again and I'm good to go.
 
First thing erase the computer memory to erase it run a KOEO test and when it starts giving you the codes turn the tester off.Clean all of the connectors under the hood with electrical cleaner and when dry apply dielectric grease when putting back together. Pull all the grounds you can find apart and sand metal to metal. Inspect all of the wires for cracks or bare wires and repair as necessary. Intermittent faults are usually wire/connector related. While your going through the wiring have the neg disconnected on the battery to reset the computer. Then run it for about 20 mins at medium speeds and pull the codes again while it is up to temp. Do not change parts without confirming they are defective first. Post your test results good or bad.
 
Thanks for the help! I'll give all that a whirl this afternoon and see how it goes
 
I've been dealing with coils a lot recently, and I've learned that if you're testing the resistance on your coil when it's cold, then they might show that they're fine and all match up with similar measurements for the ohms (~14k if I remember correctly), BUT when your coil gets electricity into it, that might be when it's acting up, you just can't tell when you're testing resistance.

I made up an analogy for myself to understand, it's like you have a 10ft steel pipe and you take a flashlight and look from one end to the other and see that it's open, but then when you fill that pipe with 100psi of water, it sprays out everywhere, you just couldn't see the holes when looking from end to end, but they're evident now that you're using the pipe for its intended use :icon_idea: :D
 
Yesterday I cleaned the connections, looked for bad wires, took off the icm and cleaned it, and tested all the grounds. Last night after I was done I turned it on for a sec to ensure I didn't forget to connect anything back. This afternoon when I went to take it on a drive and it would turn over but refuse to start. Could it be the icm finally crapped out or another part that did?
 
Just an update, I took the icm to autozone and they tested it and the test showed it was bad. I got a new one today installed it and now the truck runs like a champ! No check engine light, no sputtering along at high throttle, and my aftermarket tach now works!!
 

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