Now it's all about the tuning...

[dangerranger83]

My carb still has the caps over the idle screws as to keep you from adjusting from what the factory had set them. I should have taken them off but was in a oinch of time to get my truck back on the road.

My carb came off a 83 cougar.

Heres my setup that I am running on mine.

 

[John Smith]

I wouldn't think that

your idle mixture would be THAT far out of whack causing too much of an issue but they have to be set RIGHT.

That's the thing about running a carb, it HAS to be set up right, and will need tweaking (like the puter used to do)..to run optimum..

not everyone's cup of tee but it's part of the deal...and reading your plugs to see where ur at...and make subtle changes per altitude of travel..a little work yes..but generally a big reward for your effort..

Fortunately and also UN-fortunately you can just slap a carb on it..and it will run...

Fortunately because it WILL RUN..unfortunately because it may not run well...(power. mileage etc)anyway..

I'm not familiar with the carb ur runnin'..I have a bunch of 2150A's (feedback), and mostly 2100's (pre-72) so I can't help you with what you can do to that one except jet it lighter (mid 40's) and read your plugs..and set up your idle circuits, and back off your accel pump adjustment via rod settings. If you can't figure that out I'll send some links..(ur carb looks like one of those variable adjustment fuel rod versions..don't believe I'd like that of I could help it).

KIMXX on here has more experience with these later 2150's I'm sure he has some ideas.

You should be able to run in the high teens i would think if you watch your driving habits...if not you should make some carb changes....

I forgot to ask..what venturi size is the carb ur runnin?...anything larger than 1.02 may give you worse mileage than you want IMHO...I still think these engines are overcarbed in stock trim, and when you take the feedback carb off and the puter it actually makes it worse....w/o some serious carb work...as far as mileage is concerned..(which also effects overall performance)...

my 2.8 runs great..even burning water on #1....but i also have NO vacuum leaks, and am running a plugged and polished upper intake adapter....

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf does your venturi cluster look like the one in this link if not it is likely the same as the one I am running. If it dont have the feedback solenoid it is a 2150 is there a part number on the metal plate in front of the choke thermostat. If it is a 1983 the first two digits would be E3 E being 1980s and the second digit the year. The one in the link I gave you has the variable air bleed if you want it to run leaner you can drill the bleed holes a little bigger just be careful you dont want it to run too lean you will cook pistons and valves. The feedback carbs can be adapted with a metering block to control the air bleed using idle air needles. Actually I just thought of that the two little holes on top of the venturi booster are a fixed bleed they suck air into the venturi booster to mix with the fuel. In the link the rods that go into top of the booster move up and down depending on throttle position when you give it gas it changes the air bleed into the venturi booster. Instead of putting in smaller jets I am gonna try giving it more air by drilling the bleed holes a little bigger. humm

 

[dangerranger83]

Downloaded the pdf so going to be reading over it an whatnot. Ill also get you guys more info on the carb that I am running. Mine has the 1.08 venturi's in it.

 

[John Smith]

after some cyliinder head work

a quick update.

I finally got around to checking the issue with the water in #1 cylinder and wound up replacing the passenger side head..(it had a crack that was allowing some water seepage when hot)...I also replaced a "rubber" temporary soft plug that was evident on the passenger side..

While I was at it I replaced the Stem seals on the drivers side head. Since this engine has about 115K miles on it, I wanted to see how it would react to just repairing what was needed.

After a short 85 mile road trip..I filled it back up with 4.31 gallons of E10 regular.

85 / 4.31 = 19.72 MPG...not bad for a combination of "around town" and short freeway use.

Now maybe I can get back to some more serious "tuning"...I think it can only get better as it goes.. I have another carb I'm working on..an F100 manual choke 1.02. I may get that on on next week...(it will probably have a set of "42" jets I have on my bench..)

Another thing that I have rechecked is the accelerator pump rod settings on this 2100, since spring is here, (and generally mild weather is prevailing) I have moved the rod down to the "a" or "#1" hole on the throttle shaft. That, along with using the "inner" lever slot on the diaphragm end will make this 2100 set at the leanest possible accelerator pump setting, something that is recommended for a 260 Ford with this carb originally. I assume it will be similarly "OK" with this smaller 171 CU motor..we'll see how that affects the next gas fill-up

Best wishes to all who read here...

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1555&pictureid=9357

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1555&pictureid=9358

 

[dangerranger83]

I still need to get on to mine and mess with it until I go to do my v8 swap.

 

[drgrcr]

These little motors will get the mileage once you get the tune in the ball park. I get consistent 15 to 18 mpg city driving in the summer running the AC. That is using the 1.08 with the meter rod type boosters. 44 main jet, and a power valve that open at around 6 to 7 inches of vacuum. And my engine need valve stem seals real bad.

Hopefully in the near future the engine will be coming out and getting a work over...if I can keep my daughters from overheating there cars.....

 

[dangerranger83]

Ya I think one of my biggest things killing me is the jet size being to big and the power valve not being hooked up.

Anybody have pictures of there setup showing where the power valve should be hooked up to and all of the other good things. Remember I am durasparked so keep that in mind.

 

[John Smith]

about the power valve..

Ya I think one of my biggest things killing me is the jet size being to big and the power valve not being hooked up.

Anybody have pictures of there setup showing where the power valve should be hooked up to and all of the other good things. Remember I am durasparked so keep that in mind.

does your carb have a power valve cover with "nipple connector" for a vacuum line?..older carbs had internal supply for vacuum. If your power valve cover as shown in the tech library 2150 rebuild pdf, doesn't have a place to connect a vacuum line yours may be fed internally. Most likely though it is external and there should be a vacuum source on the base of the carb for it..IIRC.. I'll have to check on a carb in the shop later.. I know KIMzzz will know..and other diagrams are available

I'll include a link to a GREAT source of info...

http://tekatlarge.net/Motorcraft-2150-2V-Internal-Carburetor-Systems.php

I'll include a quote

"in the case of internal vacuum passages, the power valve cover is simply a closed chamber that seals the power valve diaphragm and the internal vacuum passage on the bottom of the carburetor.

The external vacuum nipple must be connected to a manifold vacuum source with a hose. "

good reading actually..and for those of us who prefer pictures..or are textually challenged...this article has plenty of pics as well..

I don't have a lot of experience with the later 2150's.and their Jeep variations .but I'm sure you can get thru it..

Sound like a good inspection/re-build may be in order...checking out the systems..you can do it..

 

[John Smith]

It's great to see your input..

These little motors will get the mileage once you get the tune in the ball park. I get consistent 15 to 18 mpg city driving in the summer running the AC. That is using the 1.08 with the meter rod type boosters. 44 main jet, and a power valve that open at around 6 to 7 inches of vacuum. And my engine need valve stem seals real bad.

Hopefully in the near future the engine will be coming out and getting a work over...if I can keep my daughters from overheating there cars.....

I chose a 9.5" power valve (roughly half of my 20"hg static idle vacuum)..I may drop it down to 7 or so and see if there is some difference..

 

[drgrcr]

John, do you have a source for power valves? the only ones I can find are what comes in the rebuild kits, which all seem to open at around 6 to 7 inches. The Holley power valves look similar, haven't tried to screw one in to see if the threads are the same.

 

[John Smith]

I'm using..

John, do you have a source for power valves? the only ones I can find are what comes in the rebuild kits, which all seem to open at around 6 to 7 inches. The Holley power valves look similar, haven't tried to screw one in to see if the threads are the same.

A Holley valve. They seem to be usable and available anywhere (good News)..I guess NOS motor-craft are pretty rare.

 

[drgrcr]

Cool!

 

[dangerranger83]

My power valve is plugged off and not being used (mine is external one off a 80's 3.8 cougar before they went FI) , probably why when my engine is under a high load (aka doing 65mph) I cant go any faster because my engine isnt getting the fuel it needs to be able to go faster, and this occurs not matter if I am in 3rd gear at higher rpm's or 4th gear doing lower, it just cant go past 65mph.

So I wonder if I hook it to a vaccum source if I can get more power when I need it and maybe (very very doubtful) get better mileage or at least have more power at higher speeds.

 

[John Smith]

It's hard to tell

My power valve is plugged off and not being used (mine is external one off a 80's 3.8 cougar before they went FI) , probably why when my engine is under a high load (aka doing 65mph) I cant go any faster because my engine isnt getting the fuel it needs to be able to go faster, and this occurs not matter if I am in 3rd gear at higher rpm's or 4th gear doing lower, it just cant go past 65mph.

So I wonder if I hook it to a vaccum source if I can get more power when I need it and maybe (very very doubtful) get better mileage or at least have more power at higher speeds.

Just because it's plugged off doesn't mean it's not being used. most likely is but since you don't know for sure what may have been done to the circuits inside..it's hard to tell. It could have a "dummy slug" in there..relying only on the main jets..(A dummy slug is just a pwervalveshaped piece that will plug the hole..)

It's my understanding that the power valve may basically offer about 10 or so sizes of effective main jet increase when in use ..but if it is a slug..you won't get any more at all...

You really won't know till you take it apart and check the carb..go buy a Holley power valve that's rated at about 1/2 or less of your idle vacuum..and start with a new one hooked up right..It could be just packed wiht junk in the fuel bowl and not working at all which is likely since no vacuum has been hooked to it...have you cleaned your carb since you had a plugged fuel filter?..the fuel bowl could be filled with junk...

While you have it apart..take time to make sure ALL the little air/fuel passages are clean and free from junk. ( a small set of pins and needles helps here...)