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noob needs help with sas


ranger_dave88

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
14
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Automatic
I have an 85 ford ranger and I want to do an sas. Im thinking about going with a d44 from a 78-79 bronco, but then I started thinking about going with a d60 from a 1978-1979 F-250 just wondering which is easier to do. Are the d44s and d60s wider than the ranger itself (just wondering)? I want to lift it with leafs also because I like the way they look and I could care less about ride quality. Also wanted to know what the difference between high and low pinion is. I want to run 40s on the truck and and it will only be used for mild 4wheelin(for now), but I want great height out of it. Thanks for any help in advance.
 
depends on your fab skills on which one is easier. They are both relativly easy to do but completly different style. The axles themselves arent wider but with the D60 you will expose most of the tire out of the truck. Difference between high and low pinion is the gear cut and the pinionrides either above or below the ring gear centerline. From what you sound like you want, alot of lift the leafs would probably be more practical for you and a bit cheaper/easier.
 
id do one tons (60) with the 40 inch tires, "mild wheelin" gets boring
 
that is what i read about the high and the low pinion being above or below the center line, but i was wondering if it makes a difference as far as steering goes. mild wheeling meaning playing in the sand, but not like jumping or racing or anything crazy, definately mud and some trails. I was considering the d44s but i thought i might as well build it big the first time. how is a 14ff compared to a d60?
 
a 14ff is a hell of a lot stronger than a d60 rear axle stock to stock, they are generally cheaper to build and more common. A 14 bolt is Big but with diff shaving options from simply grinding a lil off to shaving the ring gear as well you can save some clearance and never have to worry about breaking.
 
a 14ff is a hell of a lot stronger than a d60 rear axle stock to stock, they are generally cheaper to build and more common. A 14 bolt is Big but with diff shaving options from simply grinding a lil off to shaving the ring gear as well you can save some clearance and never have to worry about breaking.

true with 30spline 60's. but 35spline 60's are not uncommon.
 
another quick noob question..what does full float or semi float? i dont get that? what axle would be better the d60 or 14ff? does the 14ff come as a front axle too? or no?
 
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Full floating refers to how the wheel bearings are configured.

Full floating uses a hub that rides on it's own set of wheel bearings on a spindle (much the same as how the front axle is set up). The axleshaft merely provides torque to the wheels.

Semi floating means the wheel is bolted directly to the axle shaft, and is supported by a single bearing at the end of the axle housing (in this setup, the axleshaft is supporting the vehicle's weight).

The big advantage to FF axles is should you ever snap a shaft from too much torque, all you have to do is pull the shaft out, block or cap the end of the spindle so oil doesn't escape, and then drive it home on front wheel drive.

With a semi float axle, (provided the break is not right next to the wheel) the most you can do is limp it slowly to someplace where you can change it or get it towed. You cannot drive it at road speeds with a broken shaft. If you have a C-clip SF axle with drum brakes, the axle will be free to come out of the housing as well.


As for what axle is best... All 3 of: GM 14-bolt (10.5"), the Ford (Sterling) 10.25", and the Dana70 are pretty equal in strength. The 14-bolt seems to have the least clearance, I'd probably shoot for the Ford or D70 myself.
 
does the gm 14 bolt and ford sterling come as a front axle? if not what would be a good front axle to with one of these rear axles? when doing a sas with leafs can you put lift blocks in between the axle shaft and the leafs? or no im a dumbass?
 
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The GM 14b and Sterling are rear axles only. There is a D70 front, but it actually isn't as desirable as the D60 front.

The D60 makes an excellent front axle. The front axle doesn't need to exactly match the strength of the rear, as it normally doesn't have the same amount of strain on it (especially when climbing up stuff, the rear does the majority of the work).

Lift blocks on a front axle is a huge no-no though, the consequences of having one come out are much greater than on a rear axle (they'd also be more likely to come out with the lateral loads a front steering axle puts on them too).
 
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bump.. anyone?

Is there any modification needed to be done to either the 14 bolt (or sterling) or my 85 ranger to get it to go on? or is it pretty much bolt on? Does the d60 front axle need any modification to get it to adapt to to the ranger frame (besides the hangers,shackles, and the leafs)? Also i know this is the suspension forum but whats a good year 351 w to put in the ranger?
 
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Wow! You should really think about looking around on the site. And im starting to think you might not want to go through with this if you have to ask how to put a different axle under your truck. None of what you are wanting to do is a direct bolt on. You have to weld new perches, create crossmembers, set pinion angle. Everyone has been really nice so far but if you keep it up they're gonna eat you alive. Do some more research on your own before trying to send people out to do it for you. I spent 2 years researching and checking out other peoples stuff on here before I started my swap.
Dont think Im being a prick, just trying to help you out.
 

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