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Non-interference?


Justin 95

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2009
Messages
5
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
Hey guys. I'm new here, and trying to change my timing belt. I have a 95 B2300 and the timing belt broke. I didn't know why my engine quit running at first, and I tried to restart it a few times before I noticed the broken timing belt. Am I in a lot of trouble with banged up valves, or is this a non-interference engine?

Also, I'm having a hell of a time getting the big bracket that supports the AC compressor and power steering pump out of the way. I have 3 bolts out of it, but can't find the last one. I'm having trouble getting the power steering pulley off (frozen) so I can get the power steering pump out. Anyone know if the last belt is under there? Dumb question maybe, I'm sure it's under there.

Any tips are welcome here. Thanks.

P.S. Yes, I did search and read other threads. They didn't exactly answer my questions :)
 
all of the ford/mazda 2.0's and 2.3 4 bangers are all non interference engines. just get the cover off. line up everything. and put the new belt on. and drive it another 1xx,xxx miles.
 
you shouldn't have to take the PS pump pulley off, there are 2 or 3 bolts on the lower front of the engine, and probably a couple twards the center of the engine twards the engine from the pump, some of them are hard to get to which is why I didn't put the lower front ones on when I put my engine in...
 
Yes,leave the pump on the bracket and just swing it back out of the way.There are a couple "hidden" bolts down in the bottom of the bracket,look a little harder
 
Thanks for the tips, I'm gonna try again.

Hey I often get high oil pressure (guage is pinged to the right) then sometimes its fine. I noticed this quote when I did a search:

"Engine Knock:

Some 2.3L engines (especially 1992-1993) have knocking on the lower left side of the engine. The cause is oil pressure problems. The solution is a revised oil pump and a gallery plug with a pressure damping rod."

You think this could be the cause? If so, does anyone know where the instructions are for doing this? I couldn't find them.
 
the gauge fluctuation is a bad sender. those things are never accurate.

get a mechanical oil gauge. thats the right solution to the problem. most auto parts stores sell a 3 pack of sunpro gauges. it includes oil pressure, water temp, and volts. for around 30.00 with everything you need to install them.

the knock, it could be a low oil pressure problem. but the only real way to know is to put a mechanical gauge on it to see how much psi ya got.

it should have atleast 15-20 at an idle when warm. any lower than that and its time to do a pump.

just outta curiosity, what weight oil are you running and what kinda oil filter?
 
I don't have a knock, it was just the only thing I could find on the search relating to oil pressure.

I've had the truck for about 1500 miles and it was changed before I bought it, so I don't know. The previous owner had it serviced regularly -minus the timing belt.
 

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