noisy little 2.9

[kimcrwbr1]

was it a good ar bad difference. Go ahead and erase the codes then disconnect the battery for a half an hour. take it for a good drive at least 1/2 hr at medium speeds then pull the codes again KOER and be sure and do the dynamic response or goose test properly 11 means pass 1 is not a code and write down the codes in the order received the tech library under EEC-IV will tell you what each is for yours are two digit codes. Let us know the results

 

[kimcrwbr1]

i knoe ther is no magic fix but i will tell you i put 1/2 a pint of seafoam in the crank case and let my grake booster vac suck in the other half let i set for about 20 mins and started it back and had a noticeable differnce and my truck is showing codes 1,11,63,32,23 what does those mean

11-pass
23-throttle position sensor
32-EGR
63-throttle position
check your connectors good they could be just in the memory but the egr and throttle position sensors work alot together you can check the voltage going in about 5 volts key on then disconnect the sensors and check the ohms it should change smooth when you open the throttle or put vacuum to the egr you can also pull the egr off and either clean it or replace it either way make sure you have a new gasket to put it back together.

 

[Cheezno6]

That engine is designed to run 5W-30, and no one who understands the engine, or how oil works would suggest that you run 20W-50 in one.

There simply is no better oil for your truck than 5W-30, and anyone who runs 20W-50 is causing excessive wear.

Not a smart thing to do.

Could you elaborate and educate as to why?

 

[chazzone]

Could you elaborate and educate as to why?

More than 90% of engine wear occurs at start-up.

The higher the viscosity of the oil, the longer it takes to get moving when cold, and the more wear the engine will experience.

This is why they developed multi-vis oils in the first place, to flow better at lower temps, yet protect as well when at operating temp.

Multi-vis is really a misnomer since single weight oils will be very viscous when cold, yet loose most of that viscosity at OT

Take a look at some straight 30 wt when it's cold outside. It flows like molasses. 20W50 is about the same.

0W-30 oil has the same viscosity at 0 degrees as it does at OT, so it is really a single viscosity oil.

It flows the same cold as it does at OT, so it protects the engine much quicker, and limits the damage done at start up.

Ford recommends 5W-30 for cologne engines. This is simply because there was no 0W-30 available when they were put into service.

There is also another issue that has developed as "environmental concerns" have impacted oil formulation, and that is a lack of zinc in today's automotive oils. This has resulted in significant cam wear on a lot of engines.

Diesel oils still have significant concentrations of zinc, and that's why I use the 5W-40 synthetic Rotella.

 

[Cheezno6]

I have always used castrol 20/50 in my small engines w/o any problems. On a engine with high miles and bigger clearances I'd be suspect of a low vis oil IMO. I run 5/20 winter 5/30 summer in my 4.6 CV and 4.6 DOHC Mark 8 but the Mod engines run very tight tollerances. I have always used straight 40 in my race drag engines and use rotella 15/40 w/GM high presure lube for engine break in