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Noise from the rearend


RangerRico

Active Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
26
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Automatic
Got some kind of noise coming from the drivetrain and I suspect may be coming from the rearend. When driving, a noise thats hard to describe can be heard in the cab, sort of a rotating howl. Reminds me of the old speedometer cables that made a sort of howling high/low rumble as the cable spun.

Put all 3 sets of U joints in new today and the noise is still there. Wheel bearings were OK along with brakes. Rearend differential shows signs of leaking for a long time, so going to check the level of oil tomorrow and probably pull the back housing and take a look at the gears.

If worse comes to worst, and I say "IF" the gears should be shot, whats it cost to rebuild a rearend these days in an 89 Ranger ?
 
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If the rear diff has leaked for a long time then it is possible that the gears got burnt. I did it once on my first truck. Pinion seal leaked. Sounds like a low growl.
 
cost of rebuild might be around $300-400 with gears and a rebuild. i'd say just go down to the junk yard and pull one. around here the junk yard sells rearends for 80$ drum to drum. alot cheaper.
 
OK, I've been to the two junkyards we have here robbing some other parts and there are probably 12-15 Rangers from I'd guess '86 - '94/'95 models. Most I think had rearends/axles still under them.

In case I need to go that route, is there any way to field shoot if one's better than another or just hope to go off the odometer readings if the display is still in them? And, between those approx models I know are there, is there a cutoff point where one won't interchange or replace my '89 ?
 
Yeah, if you can rebuild it yourself and know how to set everything up, you could get new gears for the rear somewhere around 150 or so, and the master install kits are like 80-85. I checked a shop to do just the rear of my truck with the axle out and brought to them and they said probably around 200 some bucks and one shop quoted me for like 500 for the front of my truck. CRAZY!!
 
mileage wont matter since they could've been rebuilt, swapped out ect. i would pull the diff cover, check that it HAS fluid to begin with and that the fluid is clean. visually inspect the internals for any signs of excessive wear or large metal chunks in the bottom of the diff. and with the driveshaft disconnected, spin the pinion by hand and feel for any stiff or hard spots while spinning. good luck :icon_thumby:
 
:icon_surprised:I went to my local junkyard the other day and they wanted $200 for a rear end out of a B2!! I'd rather just buy a new set of gears than pay for that.
 
:icon_surprised:I went to my local junkyard the other day and they wanted $200 for a rear end out of a B2!! I'd rather just buy a new set of gears than pay for that.

A new set of gears is a good idea, but also factor in a master kit (seals,bearings, etc.....) and the labor to set the gears up ( if you've never done them before) and if it's an l/s, what about the clutch plates. It'll add up pretty quick. FWIW, A BII diff will not bolt into a Ranger without modifications.......

RangerRico, I would get a JY diff to swap in from a similar year, low mileage Ranger with the proper gear ratio (if yours is a 4x4) and preferably one with an l/s. (after pulling the cover off and doing a thorough check on it)
 
2ranger87, thanks for the info. I've only had the truck about 3 weeks now, just trying to get it roadworthy for an around the town driver. I've got no idea if it's a l/s differential or not and it is only 2wd. Planning on pulling the rear plate off this weekend and taking a peek inside, see if anything looks worn or out of place, then fill back with clean oil and see if maybe being low on oil was the problem all along. It appears that it has leaked around the seal for quite some time, just don't know if it's low on oil or for how long it was driven if low.
 
If it's been low on oil and is making noise, the damage is already done. No oil or additive is going to remedy that. No harm in pulling the cover to see what's going on in there though......

In an '89 2wd, the chances of it being an l/s are pretty slim. The tag on one of the cover bolts, or the sticker on the door will tell what ratio and whether it is an l/s or not. There is a chart in the tech library that can help you.
 
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