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No Trailing Package


3.73’s just doesnt seem deep enough considering the tire size and it being a 4cyl. Granted I know nothing about the transmission ratios and it does have a lot of gears there.

If it was a classic Ranger, or any classic small truck, you would be right. With the power these Ecoboost engines put out, it's not a problem. That being said, they aren't designed to be in constant boost mode either. They are a "Weekend Warrior" hauling engine. If you are going to be doing hauling duty on a regular or daily basis, one should seriously consider a larger, more traditional naturally aspirated engine.
 
Im really wanting to try one, did a “build and price” for the fun of it, went as cheap as possible. 2wd, supercab. steel wheels. Think only option I did pick was the limited slip differential. I realize the loan ranger drug around trs-2 on a tow dolly without too much of a issue and it had some beefy tires. Ive never drove a boosted engine, Dad had a 6.9 diesel new in ‘86 but of course thats a NA engine. Closest thing was a 1850 oliver diesel, below the turbo rpm (cant recall what that was , 1600 maybe?) it was a complete dog. the smaller 1650 diesel (non-turbo) was much better at lower rpms. I will say the bigger tractor was awesome as long as the rpm didnt dip below a certain point. But it sure did use more fuel though. Not that any of this translates to highway gas powered turbo situations.
 
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One thing you might not like is that it has turbo lag. It's not horrible like the original turbo charged engines were but it is there. So, you do have to preplan a bit if you want drop the hammer for some reason and timing is important. One way to combat that is to manually shift down a gear or two to get the RPMs up and get the turbo spooling.
 
I drive a lot of different ecoboost vehicles all the time at work. I don’t think the issue is turbo lag so much as it’s an issue with the gear selection. Most of the time when you floor it, the ecm has to select which gear to drop the trans down to. That takes longer than the time it takes for it to start building boost.
 
I dunno if I've driven as many ecoboost engines as sno, but I've driven enough to feel like the boost lag is practically nothing. There are other factors in play before the turbo spools anyway, and the turbo is made to spool smoothly not slam on like old school turbos. They aren't race car engines, they are made for fuel economy. You shouldn't feel the turbo working on an ecoboost because you aren't supposed to.
 
I test drove one, empty, and there was no boost lag that I noticed. Unlike a RX-7 with a rotary engine back in the late 80s.... holy crap you better be hanging on when that thing wound up.
 
The non-tow package bumper brackets just don't have the drop down for the hitch.

The non-tow package crossmember is made from rectangular tubing.

The tow package hitch crossmember which is made from round tubing.

Totally different design.

Here are some hi-res photo's.
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Step Bumper Ball Mount Hitch

Note the light gauge brackets that attach the rectangular tubing to the frame and that there are 4 bolts that attach the hitch to the frame.

DSCF1873.JPG

DSCF1891 Rotated and Cropped.JPG
Rear Bumper Mount 000.JPG


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Tow Package Hitch Assembly

Note the heavier gauge plate that is used to attach the hitch to the frame and there are 6 bolts that attach the hitch to the frame.

DSCF2117 Rotated and Cropped.JPG
 
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Two words, brake boosting.
 
Two more words: Banana hammock.
 
Not enough coffee before posting again lol.

Brake-boosting is a classic roll-racing technique to build boost before the start line.

The amount of load a motor is under is just as impactful to spool time as rpm is. Riding the brake to "artificially" put the motor under more load could potentially provide you with a bigger jump in boost than a downshift would.. provided a consistent mph is the goal.. Definitely more useful in a racing situation and not "real life".. like I said.. not enough coffee lol.
 

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