No power to fuel pump

[huh?]

Check the ground near the PCM and at the radiator support.
There may be a small ground from B- that came loose.

an issue i had was related to mr. Earl's advice up above.

my ecm wasn't properly grounded to the battery, so couldn't supply a ground for the f.p. relay.

try pulling the harness off the ecm and making sure there is continuity between the negative battery clamp and pins 20, 40, and 60 of the harness.

 

[CountryBoy704]

All I have to say is DAMN! I found that my o2 sensor wasn't plugged up and that the blk/green wire from that circuit was just hanging free so I corrected all of that and all of my symptoms changed, I've been poking around with the voltmeter all day and also found that my key cylinder is cranking the truck from the run position so all the tests I've been doing from what I thought was run were completely bogus. Am ordering a key cylinder and will update when I have that installed

 

[CountryBoy704]

just installed a new key cylinder and still am cranking the motor from the run position, any thoughts?

 

[GentleRF]

It sounds like it might be the switch part, not the lockset.

 

[doorgunner]

It sounds like it might be the switch part, not the lockset.

Yep.....the part with the large electrical connector farther down the column at the other end of the rod that attaches to the key/cylinder.....

the switch has slots in the housing----it could be loose and out of adjustment causing the engine to crank in "run"...or the internal pieces in the switch could be worn or broken off causing the problem.

 

[CountryBoy704]

well it's possible seeing as the whole column was removed to swap in the manual pedal bracket, unfortunately the weekend is over and I wont be back at this again till friday so I guess it can be moved out of "urgent" but thanks everyone for the help and I'll update this next time I get time to work on it

 

[CountryBoy704]

Well I'm back at it today, installed a new ignition switch and I'm still getting the same issue. The pin in the column that moves the switch seems to be working fine and in tune with the key cylinder so I can only assume my problem is coming from further down the line? Not really sure how/where/what to test at this point I'm just going through the wiring diagram one at a time, any suggestions as to what to test and how would be appreciated!

 

[CountryBoy704]

update! Apparently the reverse light switch affects the ignition circuit? I had the 5 wires from the auto tranny plug all crossed together and when I pulled the reverse switch wires out and wired them up to the switch properly the ignition started working at the correct placement, pretty weird if you ask me?
Anyways I'm back to the fuel pump issue but actually have a legitimate "run" key placement to work from and can hear the relay click in that position and the pump works when jumped the the inertia switch.