No power at all when turn the key

[joshtoney85]

Morning to all.

I'm new and cannot seem to find exact thread that would answer my current problem.

I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L 2WD that I love and don't want to send off to a mechanic to fix.

About a month ago I went to drive it to the DMV to register it in a new state (CT) and when I tried to start her she wouldn't quiet start. So I started fiddling around looking and decided to pull the battery on the off chance it was just not enough to push it to fire up. Battery tested good. Re-installed and still same symptoms. Then next morning jumped in and tried again but this time NO POWER when I turn the key!

Checked all wire connections to and fro the battery. Cleaned all contact point and re-tighten them. Checked all fuses with a test light and all checked out. Check the relay w/ a 9v batter (room mate's idea, he's a Elec. Engineer) and all check out fine.

On the off chance the ignition switch just wasn't telling her to turn on I changed that, only $15 at auto zone. No avail. Read around and saw a fuse link might be the issue. FYI for my truck at least thats the only fusible link and its the single wire coming off the starter solenoid on the fender wall. If you read the wire it even says Fusible Link. But check ohms through the wire and it read like .1 ohms. I suck sometimes drawing conclusions from results so confirmed w/ the EE room mate and he said that's good.

So what do I check next? I am at a lost and about ready to have her towed to a mechanic and pay $50/hr diagnosis charge.

No power when turn the key, headlight won't turn on, tail lights either. But the volt meter reads 12.38 volts everywhere I've check and it should.

HELP!

Frustrated Josh

 

[joshtoney85]

Forgot to mention

Had a mechanic friend telephone me and walked me through a few things.

I "jumped" the starter solenoid and did as its suppose to. One click when I did over the 2 big posts, buzzed when I did batter side to small post, only one that has wire connected.

Bought brand new battery incase Autozone lied and still no power when key is turned.

 

[TimR]

sounds like a bad positive cable connection, or a bad solenoid.

 

[joshtoney85]

Hmm That's an easy test/fix. Question though, off the positive post of the batter there seems to be a few wires. Is your suggestions to replace all those or just the main/largest gauge wire?

Thanks a million

 

[martin]

It's only a guess but it sounds like you've lost the ground somewhere. take a booster cable and connect one end to the negative side of the battery and the other side to a good ground point on the body, then try the lights. If they now work you have lost the body ground somewhere. To check the motor ground, put a jumper cable on the negative side of the battery and the other end on a good place on the motor (alternator bracket for instance) and jump the solenoid again, the motor should turn over. Please note that the last test is not a guaranteed test as a bad starter will give similar symptoms, however, due to your other problems a bad connection or broken wire is much more likely than a bed starter. post what you find.

 

[TimR]

It's only a guess but it sounds like you've lost the ground somewhere. take a booster cable and connect one end to the negative side of the battery and the other side to a good ground point on the body, then try the lights. If they now work you have lost the body ground somewhere. To check the motor ground, put a jumper cable on the negative side of the battery and the other end on a good place on the motor (alternator bracket for instance) and jump the solenoid again, the motor should turn over. Please note that the last test is not a guaranteed test as a bad starter will give similar symptoms, however, due to your other problems a bad connection or broken wire is much more likely than a bed starter. post what you find.

I would, on further consideration, think you are probably correct, knowing how critical grounds are, on RBV's.

 

[TimR]

Hmm That's an easy test/fix. Question though, off the positive post of the batter there seems to be a few wires. Is your suggestions to replace all those or just the main/largest gauge wire?

Thanks a million

As Martin said, it is more likely a ground problem, I wasn't thinking right, you got power by jumping the solenoid, so positive is ok, it seems. There are 3 or 4 grounds on the negative side, all critical, in one way, or another.

 

[joshtoney85]

TimR/Martin awesome suggestions. I have previously disconnected, cleaned, and reconnected all the ground wires off the battery.

However I will go double check these and the conditions of these wires.

Will post soon, since I am desperate to drive my truck again. Southern boys aint made to go this long w/o their trucks

 

[TimR]

TimR/Martin awesome suggestions. I have previously disconnected, cleaned, and reconnected all the ground wires off the battery.

However I will go double check these and the conditions of these wires.

Will post soon, since I am desperate to drive my truck again. Southern boys aint made to go this long w/o their trucks

positive, too? Especially the solenoid connections...

 

[RatDog8o8]

Had a similar issue with another vehicle, and it turned out to be the ground-related cure. Hope this works out well, without major complications!

 

[Birk]

I've had the same problem, it was the cable between the solenoid and starter. It was corroded, nothing left. Had to replace the complete starter/solenoid.

 

[naford]

Do the idiot lights come on when you turn the key? If so could it be the parking/neutral start switch or the clutch safety switch?

 

[joshtoney85]

Nope idoit lights do not come on. No power at all.

I have pulled the negative wire off the batttery and plan on replacing. Ohm metter says something like .2 ohms.

I will keep this updated when I get a chance.

 

[joshtoney85]

Ok finally fixed!

Things replaced:
Battery
Starter solinoid
Ignition switch
All negative ground wires coming from battery

And then come to find out wires on solinoid were flipped.