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No power after engine repairs.


Sorry for the late reply guys. Things got really busy with college and a new job. I ran out of time and had to take it to the mechanics and they found one injector was bad and now it runs. However, while inside the engine I found that it is on its last legs. The camshaft has really bad pitting. I also found out that the mechanics lied about the work I paid for them to do on my valve stem seals. One bank has positive style valve stem seals while the other side has umbrella which is bizarre and explains the insane oil consumption. That and the crank being nicked by the mechanics which is eating the rear crank seal (They kept putting off fixing it properly until they went out of business). The valve stem ends are also worn too. It runs but I am currently figuring out what I will do when the camshaft finally does the rollers on the lifters in.
 
There aren't many parts in my area that haven't been beaten or already snagged by other guys needing them. I have divided on whether to get my 1956 f100 running and use that while figuring out the engine in the ranger or rebuilding the t18 and 302 from my 1982 f150 (it doesn't run right now and is a part truck) and drive the ranger until the engine and transmission are ready for a swap.
 
At least it is nice to know that the work I did on the engine was good. Great confidence boost.
That's great motivation to use your skills to fix the Ranger - or either one really!. You sound careful and meticulous and with the right planning and some patience I'm sure you'll have no trouble rebuilding that engine, replacing it, or whatever you decide to do.

One of my cars once needed a head gasket and the only place I had to do it was in the street/sidewalk in France. I told an old timer mechanic on my street I was worried about trying to do it in those conditions and he said "I used to do that job in the desert in Africa. You're not in the desert. Just go do it." And I did it, and still have that car to this day. I totally understand sentimental.
 
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Sorry for the late reply guys. Things got really busy with college and a new job. I ran out of time and had to take it to the mechanics and they found one injector was bad and now it runs. However, while inside the engine I found that it is on its last legs. The camshaft has really bad pitting. I also found out that the mechanics lied about the work I paid for them to do on my valve stem seals. One bank has positive style valve stem seals while the other side has umbrella which is bizarre and explains the insane oil consumption. That and the crank being nicked by the mechanics which is eating the rear crank seal (They kept putting off fixing it properly until they went out of business). The valve stem ends are also worn too. It runs but I am currently figuring out what I will do when the camshaft finally does the rollers on the lifters in.
At this point id probably just start hunting for a good junkyard engine to drop in
 
That's great motivation to use your skills to fix the Ranger - or either one really!. You sound careful and meticulous and with the right planning and some patience I'm sure you'll have no trouble rebuilding that engine, replacing it, or whatever you decide to do.

One of my cars once needed a head gasket and the only place I had to do it was in the street/sidewalk in France. I told an old timer mechanic on my street I was worried about trying to do it in those conditions and he said "I used to do that job in the desert in Africa. You're not in the desert. Just go do it." And I did it, and still have that car to this day. I totally understand sentimental.

i have done many head gaskets in the driveway with 30mph wind blowing sand and dirt all over. it sucks but that is how it is where i live
 
That's great motivation to use your skills to fix the Ranger - or either one really!. You sound careful and meticulous and with the right planning and some patience I'm sure you'll have no trouble rebuilding that engine, replacing it, or whatever you decide to do.

One of my cars once needed a head gasket and the only place I had to do it was in the street/sidewalk in France. I told an old timer mechanic on my street I was worried about trying to do it in those conditions and he said "I used to do that job in the desert in Africa. You're not in the desert. Just go do it." And I did it, and still have that car to this day. I totally understand sentimental.
I love hearing about stories like that. In my head it just felt like something that should be incredibly daunting but then you find stories like that. That guy who gave you that advice sounds just like my brother. He has told me on many occasions "you are thinking too hard about this, just go do it". It is definitely great advice for someone who overthinks too much like myself.
 
At this point id probably just start hunting for a good junkyard engine to drop in
I have wondered about doing that but at this point I've been dealing with the work of someone else on my trucks components for so long that I would prefer to put something in it that mainly only I had touched. The stuff I have touched has stayed fixed. Unfortunately, dealing with the carelessness of others with my truck has been going on for years at this point. Luckily, the configuration I want to throw in has been done before in the forums and the people there say it isn't too difficult. It just takes a lot of planning. The only concern I have right now is that some people say the year that my 302 is from is to be avoided like the plague yet others make it seem that just about any year is fine for just a basic rebuild. I'll have to keep researching I guess but a good thing is that this engine has never been rebuilt. It is still at the factory bore diameter which I think is a good sign.
 
I have wondered about doing that but at this point I've been dealing with the work of someone else on my trucks components for so long that I would prefer to put something in it that mainly only I had touched. The stuff I have touched has stayed fixed. Unfortunately, dealing with the carelessness of others with my truck has been going on for years at this point. Luckily, the configuration I want to throw in has been done before in the forums and the people there say it isn't too difficult. It just takes a lot of planning. The only concern I have right now is that some people say the year that my 302 is from is to be avoided like the plague yet others make it seem that just about any year is fine for just a basic rebuild. I'll have to keep researching I guess but a good thing is that this engine has never been rebuilt. It is still at the factory bore diameter which I think is a good sign.
There are no "bad" 302's.

Some are considered bad in stock form because of power output (mainly mid70's to early-mid80's) but that applies to any engine in that time.

302's/351w's dont have any real glaring issues across the board or within a certain year range. Yes peformance can differ greatly across their run (as in, a 68 302 is going to toast a 82 302 in a drag race)...but basically they are all the same.
 
There are no "bad" 302's.

Some are considered bad in stock form because of power output (mainly mid70's to early-mid80's) but that applies to any engine in that time.

302's/351w's dont have any real glaring issues across the board or within a certain year range. Yes peformance can differ greatly across their run (as in, a 68 302 is going to toast a 82 302 in a drag race)...but basically they are all the same.
I like Windsor engines too but they ain't all the same. 73-76 302's had .023" taller deck height to drop compression. Many engines in the 60's and 70's had aluminum cam gears with nylon teeth that would wear down and let the timing chain jump. 70-76 engines used rail rockers that caused extreme valve guide wear and the heads flowed like crap, especially on the exhaust side. 302 blocks got a lot lighter and gained a one piece rear main seal in 81 or 82 along with the crank imbalance changing from 28.2 oz/inch to 50 oz/inch. 351's stayed at 28.2 throughout production. 302's switched to roller cams in 1985, a huge improvement especially considering the "quality" of today's flat tappet cams.
An 82 Mustang 302 used a 351 marine cam and a bigger 2 barrel carburetor, it would outrun a 68-70 302 easily, it would be substantially lighter, and it's one piece rear main seal wouldn't leak.
I'd pick a 96 Explorer 302 because they had one piece rear seals, roller cams, and GT40 heads. 97-01 Explorer would be my second choice only because the GT40P head limit header/manifold choices.
I'd also rebuild any engine that age before doing the work to swap it in.
 
I like Windsor engines too but they ain't all the same. 73-76 302's had .023" taller deck height to drop compression. Many engines in the 60's and 70's had aluminum cam gears with nylon teeth that would wear down and let the timing chain jump. 70-76 engines used rail rockers that caused extreme valve guide wear and the heads flowed like crap, especially on the exhaust side. 302 blocks got a lot lighter and gained a one piece rear main seal in 81 or 82 along with the crank imbalance changing from 28.2 oz/inch to 50 oz/inch. 351's stayed at 28.2 throughout production. 302's switched to roller cams in 1985, a huge improvement especially considering the "quality" of today's flat tappet cams.
An 82 Mustang 302 used a 351 marine cam and a bigger 2 barrel carburetor, it would outrun a 68-70 302 easily, it would be substantially lighter, and it's one piece rear main seal wouldn't leak.
I'd pick a 96 Explorer 302 because they had one piece rear seals, roller cams, and GT40 heads. 97-01 Explorer would be my second choice only because the GT40P head limit header/manifold choices.
I'd also rebuild any engine that age before doing the work to swap it in.
Yes but....at their base they are basically the same. I was speaking in general terms
 
I like Windsor engines too but they ain't all the same. 73-76 302's had .023" taller deck height to drop compression. Many engines in the 60's and 70's had aluminum cam gears with nylon teeth that would wear down and let the timing chain jump. 70-76 engines used rail rockers that caused extreme valve guide wear and the heads flowed like crap, especially on the exhaust side. 302 blocks got a lot lighter and gained a one piece rear main seal in 81 or 82 along with the crank imbalance changing from 28.2 oz/inch to 50 oz/inch. 351's stayed at 28.2 throughout production. 302's switched to roller cams in 1985, a huge improvement especially considering the "quality" of today's flat tappet cams.
An 82 Mustang 302 used a 351 marine cam and a bigger 2 barrel carburetor, it would outrun a 68-70 302 easily, it would be substantially lighter, and it's one piece rear main seal wouldn't leak.
I'd pick a 96 Explorer 302 because they had one piece rear seals, roller cams, and GT40 heads. 97-01 Explorer would be my second choice only because the GT40P head limit header/manifold choices.
I'd also rebuild any engine that age before doing the work to swap it in.
That is really interesting. I had heard about the deck height changes and the smog components but not most of the other stuff. I had read about the manufacturing issues with flat tappet and roller lifters. Really hits home to double check everything before sending it. The main thing is continuing the tradition that every time the truck is passed down the next person upgrades it somehow. Originally it was a 2.9L with the transmission that came with that at the time (I can't remember what it was). That engine grenaded supposedly. The next owner, my brother, upgraded the rear end to an explorer 8.8, threw in a 4L with the m5od-r1 (unfortunately I suspect both were refurbished units but as of right now I only have confirmation on the transmission).

What appeals to me about the powertrain from the f150 is that I can rebuild it on the side while driving the truck as is right now. Plus these components should be really strong since this application is not as tough on the parts as the f150. Opening up the 302 revealed that the thing is remarkably clean which is crazy as it was a farm truck. I guess the farmer must have kept up with his oil changed. That and it having never seen machining since the factory makes me want to rebuild it. Yes it will be a lot of work but I am eager to remove the components that others have screwed up beyond the capabilities of basic repair.
 
I understand that this is an enormous challenge that I am embarking on but I am willing to take it on. I just have to maintain the usual "do it right the first time" so it goes together right.
 
There are no "bad" 302's.

Some are considered bad in stock form because of power output (mainly mid70's to early-mid80's) but that applies to any engine in that time.

302's/351w's dont have any real glaring issues across the board or within a certain year range. Yes peformance can differ greatly across their run (as in, a 68 302 is going to toast a 82 302 in a drag race)...but basically they are all the same.
That is exactly what I had suspected and hoped would be the case. Good to hear from others with a lot of experience that it is the truth. There are so many opinions on the internet it can be difficult to determine what to believe.
 

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