No oil to rockers on Rh side of engine.

[Roadhog]

Does anybody know where i can find something that will show how the oil flows through a 2.8. I just rebuilt this engine, drove it 60 miles and decided to readjust the valves again as they were getting pretty noisy. I did the drivers side first. Everything looked normal and only 1 of the valves was slightly out of adjustment. When i pulled the valve cover on the pass. side everything was bone dry. still had lubriplate on the wear points but no oil. I went as far as pulling the rh rocker shaft and starting the engine [ran pretty good on only 3 cyl. i was surprized] No oil coming from the delivery port in the head. Now what? I think iam going to pull the head off and verifiy that the oil port in the head is not plugged. I did blow some air through the oil hole with a rubber tipped blow gun. Iam not sure where the air went but it was flowing and oil came out of the rockers on the drivers side while i was blowing air into the pass. side. I also tried running the engine again with the rh rocker shaft off after i blew the air just to see if i unplugged it, if it had been plugged. still no oil.

 

[budro]

cam bearings??

Looks like on my lubrication diagram it looks like it may pass through the cam bearings on the way up. Did you install them or have the machine shop install them. There are holes for the oil to pass through I know when I rebuilt my 2.8.

here is a link to some 2.8 engine info:2.8 V6 Engine

check out page 2

 

[Roadhog]

I did not mention in my first post, that this engine had been previously rebuilt and did not have very miles on it when i got it. however it had been parked since the year 2000. the person i bought it from said it had a knock in the engine. he did not tell me it had been recently rebuilt,[not sure if he even knew it]. Anyway i towed it home, got it fired up and yes it had an obvious bottom end knock. i pulled the engine and tore it down. everything literly looked like new inside. no carbon, not even any heat/oil discoloration. Anyway the cause of the source of the knock was the crank was broken right at the front edge of the first main bearing. it was also cracked at the third counter weight. With all that said i just used our hotsy steam cleaner and pressure washed the block for reassembly. i did not replace the cam bearings because they appeared to be brand new like the rest of the internals.One bad thing on my part was i did not check any alignment of the oil holes on the cam bearings as i assumed since it was fine before,[or was it?] that they were ok. to finish off the engine i put a crank kit in it, a set of new rings and gaskets and had the heads checked out with a valve grind, new valve stem seals and surfaced. everything else looked good enough to reuse for a longterm overhaul. i also should mention that this is the older 70's model engine. it has the small journel cam as well as thrust washers on the crank, not a standard thrust bearing used on most engines ive seen.

 

[Roadhog]

Thanks for the link Budro it showed an oil flow chart that was helpfull. Looks like ill be pulling the rh head first just to see what i can see. If i cant see anything ,ill be pulling the cam and checking the bearing alignment. Ill probably pull the engine to do that.

 

[dangerranger83]

Sounds like your engine came out of a Mustang or Capri of the time if it has the smaller cam journals and whatnot.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

There are two plugs in the timing gear part of the front of the engine similar to freeze plugs. Maybe the one on the pass side popped out and it is flooding the timing gears.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Pull the timing cover and crank on it but dont start it unless you want a big mess.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I always will start a engine with the valve covers off after major surgery to confirm oil in the upper end! Your getting oil to one side the cam should be fine I`m not sure if you can put a head gasket on wrong maybe a plugged journal though.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://search.aol.com/aol/imageDeta...ection&imgSize=144301&hostName=www.dipity.com

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I tried to get a pic of the front of a 2.8 without the gears.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I had to check I was going by what I heard post #2 gave you a link and I couldnt see any plugs but you can see how the oil goes up i believe in the casting. A guy I know had the same problem and his backyard fix was he added a oil cooler and piped the oil into the valve cover flooding it with oil I had to laugh, when I saw that I walked away from the project.

 

[Roadhog]

Yes this is an older 70's car engine. Not an 80's ranger/b-2 motor. funny you should mention the oil plumbed in through the valve cover. this engine at one time had the center rocker shaft bolt [not the side iam having a problem with] drilled dead center from the top down half way to the bottom of the bolt. then cross drilled to pressureize the top end of the bolt. then it had a piece of copper tubing soldered over the hole in the head of the bolt. the copper tubing had been cut off and pinched closed about 1/4 inch from the bolt head when i got it. while reassembling the engine i decided to reuse the bolt. well, it broke from the drilling when i tried to torque it to specs. thank god for a spare parts motor in the garage. it had the proper rocker shaft bolt for a replacement.

 

[Roadhog]

we pulled the head tonight and found nothing wrong with it. we also ran the oil pump with a drill for a long time. had lots of oil coming from drivers side rockers as well as 50 psi on the oil press. gauge. still no oil coming out of the oil port for the rh head at the block. looks like ill pull the engine and cam. its got to have a cam bearing out of position or the oil port in the block is plugged between the cam and the oil hole at the head gasket. i hope its not a spun [seized] cam bearing. that will just be another problem ill have to figure why it happened.