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no oil pressure!


88mudder

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Messages
802
Age
36
City
waterford michigan
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
:temper: Well the whole reason why my 302 dont have power is because i have 0 oil pressure. The valvetrain is noisy as hell and the valves are barely moving, and no oil is coming up the motor when i took the valve covers off and let it run. Any tips on what to do next?
 
:temper: Well the whole reason why my 302 dont have power is because i have 0 oil pressure. The valvetrain is noisy as hell and the valves are barely moving, and no oil is coming up the motor when i took the valve covers off and let it run. Any tips on what to do next?
the first question i would ask, is how many miles are on the motor? myself, the first thing i would check with minimal valve movement would be the cam lobes [ i know, PITA, cuz you have to tear upper end down] then i would check valve spring pressure, i have heard it done, not sure what is needed for test, and actually you could do that before pulling the cam. as for the oil no flow, if you have had the distributor out of the motor, i would check to make sure that the intermediate shaft that drives the oil pump is fully engaged in the distributor AND the pump, could be that if you had the distributor out for any reason the shaft may have fallen into the pan [ another PITA] but you may be able to verify if you have enough room to drop the pan a little bit.:sad:sorry i couldn't have better scenario for you.
 
the first question i would ask, is how many miles are on the motor? myself, the first thing i would check with minimal valve movement would be the cam lobes [ i know, PITA, cuz you have to tear upper end down] then i would check valve spring pressure, i have heard it done, not sure what is needed for test, and actually you could do that before pulling the cam. as for the oil no flow, if you have had the distributor out of the motor, i would check to make sure that the intermediate shaft that drives the oil pump is fully engaged in the distributor AND the pump, could be that if you had the distributor out for any reason the shaft may have fallen into the pan [ another PITA] but you may be able to verify if you have enough room to drop the pan a little bit.:sad:sorry i couldn't have better scenario for you.

unknown mileage on the engine, i bought it used from a dishonest guy. Im going to pull the motor and put in on my stand and tear is apart from there.
 
:temper: Well the whole reason why my 302 dont have power is because i have 0 oil pressure. The valvetrain is noisy as hell and the valves are barely moving, and no oil is coming up the motor when i took the valve covers off and let it run. Any tips on what to do next?

I would say time for a rebuild.

Hey mudder how far up is waterford mi.?
 
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unknown mileage on the engine, i bought it used from a dishonest guy. Im going to pull the motor and put in on my stand and tear is apart from there... ...Any tips on what to do next?
Looks like you're heading the right direction.
-Check the pickup screen
-Might replace the pump (unknown mileage) then you'll know! Whether you use a stock, or a higher pressure/volume pump depends upon your build. A general rule of thumb I've learned is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm of operation. i.e.- 6000 rpm = 60 psi. A good OEM stock pump is usually sufficient.
-Might replace the dist. drive shaft w/ an upgrade (larger diameter)
-Seeing as how you're pulling it apart, do you plan on pulling the oil plugs out of the gallery and "rodding" it? -Dip the block?

Just some thing to consider. Honestly!
 
Looks like you're heading the right direction.
-Check the pickup screen
-Might replace the pump (unknown mileage) then you'll know! Whether you use a stock, or a higher pressure/volume pump depends upon your build. A general rule of thumb I've learned is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm of operation. i.e.- 6000 rpm = 60 psi. A good OEM stock pump is usually sufficient.
-Might replace the dist. drive shaft w/ an upgrade (larger diameter)
-Seeing as how you're pulling it apart, do you plan on pulling the oil plugs out of the gallery and "rodding" it? -Dip the block?

Just some thing to consider. Honestly!

I will pull the pan first and check the screen and pickup tube incase they are clogged. Im not sure as to what im going to do. Rebuilding the whole thing will be costly..and knowing me id wanna hot rod the whole damn thing which would be even more. Im debating whether to buy a different engine and put it in, and then keep my broken 302 for a rebuild project later down the road.
 
Im not sure... ...the whole thing will be costly...
Considering the economy --

Pull it apart, clean it up. Check the bores, bearing webs and journals.
Rings, bearings, seals, new oil pump, full gasket set (but, don't use the cheap cork. Purchase a set of composite valve cover gaskets and a one piece pan gasket - you'll be glad you did, later.)
Take the heads to the shop of your preference, and at least, do a valve job. You may not be pushing 450HP, but you'll have a reliable engine.

In my opinion -
The way the economy is going - save your $$ where you can. Its not the correct economic timing to be acting like we've got "disposable income" to throw into the Horse Power pothole. I don't think its gonna' get better anytime real soon. Doesn't matter who's in the Presidency.
Again, just my humble opinion. I can live in my world and be tolerant enough to let you live in yours'. :rockon:
 
If you decide to buy a different long block let me know i'll make ya a good deal on one.
 
i may be selling mine soon. its a crate gt40 with @ 50 k on it.


i may be going to pontiac to get tube, so you could drive it and see if you like it.



there were a ton of gt's in the tradin times for under 800 bux, i usually pull the pan and check e/p and run them for a 1/2hr or so on the ground to make sure they hold pressure before i buy a used anything.:icon_thumby:
 
i did notice the EGR port on the back of the motor wasnt plugged all the way. Would this cause the oil pressure to drop?
 
took the oil pump out and tested it, works fine. The screen is clean and pickup tube is not clogged. The whole bottom end looks clean , and i made sure the pump is being driven by rotating the engine. I took a look at the cam since i could see it through the bottom, spun the motor and no lobed or anything are broke off. Im going to replace the pump while i have the pan off.

This engine never had a engine oil dipstik, prevuous owner broke it. The oil pan is a 5 qt dual sump so i assumed 5 quart..well it had more like 5.5-6 , i added more just to be sure but i hope i didnt overfill it..maybe this could have been my problem? I do know if its overfilled the oil pressure can be affected.

Next step is to put the pan back on and look at the upper end of the motor. Im thinking the lifters might be collapsed or clogged. What i want to do is get a cam and lifter set, and swap on my 289 heads since i know they worked well and a benefit of better valve springs and adjustable rockers.

Is this a good plan?
 
Im going to replace the pump while i have the pan off... This engine never had a engine oil dipstick... ...Im thinking the lifters might be collapsed or clogged... ...a cam and lifter set... ... 289 heads...
Is this a good plan?
Sounds reasonable and $$ conscious.
Years ago, I had a 289. -- Had a terrible time trying to maintain oil psi with it. Overhauled it, new oil pump. Oil psi was great when I first started it up after rebuild, and it gradually dropped off to low unacceptable pressures. Close to 5 psi at idle and maybe 20 psi while scootin' down the highway. -- Not good!
I was in the Navy stationed aboard ship in San Diego. Took an oil sample to the ship's Oil Lab and discovered fuel dilution! I thought it smelled (and tasted) funny. (don't ask!:icon_confused:)
To make a long story short, it was the Mechanical Fuel Pump. Leaking gas past a faulty diaphragm, into the oil. I didn't replace it during rebuild.;brownbag; Changed the Fuel Pump my problem went away.
With fuel injection, it is possible to have this problem with a faulty Pressure Regulator, too. (sucking raw fuel through the vacuum tube into the intake manifold - just ponder it!)
 
also pull the timing cover/t plate and make sure restrictors didnt pop out of it.


see alot of hivol pump guys not tap them and put screw in plugs and lose one and blow the motor, that is when they arent chewin up dizzy gears.:dntknw:
 

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